I am also not fan of duster. I used Optimum No Rinse wash. All you need is about 2 gallon and 2 cap full and you'd be amazed how clean your gets.

 

It rained on me yesterday driving home from work. The car was just 3 days old from having a hand wash so it wasn't that dirty before the rain and only had some dry water spots and a little road dirt here and there where you would expect it.
I was pressed for time today so here is what I did to get my car clean. Maybe this will help the guy in the OP?
I took a 3 1/2 gal bucket and filled it w/ tap water to the top. I got the soft brush I use to clean the car and the 1 I use for the tires/wheels. I raised the windshield wipers and dipped the car brush in the water and slung water on the top of the car and lightly brushed it off just like I would if I was cleaning it. I did the whole car w/ a liberal amount of water on the brush at all times. I then did the same thing w/ the tires/wheels w/ that brush. It took about 15 maybe 20 minutes to do the whole car.
I then took my squeegee and cleaned all the windows. I followed that up w/ the soft cotton towells and shammy on the car. All in all it took less then 30 minutes from start to finish and it only used 3 1/2 gal of water!
The car looked like I had just spent an hour+ on really washing it. Now I would not do this all the time but in the middle of the week between deep hand washes I think this will work out great! At lease it did today!

 

Anyone use clay on their cars, even occasionally?

 

I did, after 2 years of ownership. Check this out: http://www.rennteam.com/forum/thread/20151888/Has_everyone_here_discovered_the_magic_of_clay__cl aying/page1.html

 

I have done so on past porsches with the Zaino claybar. It seemed to work well. Only did it one time ever and then waxed it up.

 

I clay every 3 months and wax every 4 weeks - depending on your LSP (last step product - carnauba vs. synthetic) will dictate the time between applications of the LSP for protection. Remember there are multiple forms of paint contaminants trying to attacks your paint on a daily basis. Using automotive clay and a good lubricant to massage these paint etching contaminants out will keep your paint smooth (the way it way meant to be).

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...se-a-clay-bar/

 

Bob & JS, thanks. How about deionizer? Which one do you use?

 

Can, I use a CR Spotless DIC-20.

My water carries a tds rating of >560 ppm. It's probably one of the highest in the country. Even after softening, you're just exchanging calcium and magnesium for sodium...which still leaves spots. There is a formula that helps you determine how long resin will last based on your water's ppm - I have found that I can make it through the summer changing both canisters for a DIC-20 twice...I buy the resin in bulk - kind of pricey at $215 a container, but well worth the cost savings of etching my clear coat with crappy water.

- bob

 

I found my old post:

 

Bob, thanks. If I am lazy about doing research about something, I know the best way is to just ask you exactly what you have. No kidding and that's a compliment! LOL

Oh, why don't you just you a leaf blower and blow off the water afterward, and therefore not having to deionize the water?

 

I do!





My car washing is more of a religion than a task.

 

^^^ Ha ha. That looks like a lady's arm? Your SO is washing the car for you?

Kidding aside, and really asking (no sarcasm at all), why do you need deionized water if you already blow the water off with the blower?

 

Even in the winter, the water will start drying before I get a chance to finish washing...at 560 ppm, the calcium stains are nearly impossible to remove without a full orbital polish...something I don't want to do every time. More importantly, on a black car, water will get between the doors, into the engine bay, where the blower won't do much good. Believe me...once you get water spots that etch...the $$ is well worth it.

 

Once again thanks for the "encyclopedic" help.

 

Properly wash the car and then wax (that's if you don't need to claybar which is the best and cheapest thing that helps your paint a whole lot). After you do this very good hand wax, when the car gets dusty and dirty all you need to do is spray the car down with high pressure water and at most maybe soap the area behind the wheels and use a california water blade so the areas match when you dry it.

<----detailer