Lowering springs
GMG .. its great that you post in my thread thanks
.. as i sent you 2 emails with no respond !
i just bought eibach lowering kit , still did not receive it .. many guys here recommend your sway bar (rear+front) but when i see other aftermarket sways .. they also sell the drop links but you do not !! why ?? is it not Needed ? .. so what do you recommend for DD car ??
after the lowering kit and your sways will the car became hard to drive ??
yousef
.. as i sent you 2 emails with no respond !
i just bought eibach lowering kit , still did not receive it .. many guys here recommend your sway bar (rear+front) but when i see other aftermarket sways .. they also sell the drop links but you do not !! why ?? is it not Needed ? .. so what do you recommend for DD car ??
after the lowering kit and your sways will the car became hard to drive ??
yousef
Yousef
I believe we responded to your email - but please resend it to sales@gmgracing.com it goes to 3 people... Also check your spam mail to make sure you dont have a response sitting in it.
The sway bars will not cause the car to ride harsh or make it hard to drive. They will improve the vehicles to turn and keep the car from rolling over in corners or sudden changes in direction.
We designed our sway bars to work with the stock drop links for a maintenance noise free experience with the product.. While monoball -rod end style links are great for a race they tend to be noisy and un reliable on a road car over time. You can still use them with our sway bars if you want but they are not necessary.
Hope that answers your questions.
I believe we responded to your email - but please resend it to sales@gmgracing.com it goes to 3 people... Also check your spam mail to make sure you dont have a response sitting in it.
The sway bars will not cause the car to ride harsh or make it hard to drive. They will improve the vehicles to turn and keep the car from rolling over in corners or sudden changes in direction.
We designed our sway bars to work with the stock drop links for a maintenance noise free experience with the product.. While monoball -rod end style links are great for a race they tend to be noisy and un reliable on a road car over time. You can still use them with our sway bars if you want but they are not necessary.
Hope that answers your questions.
Yousef
I believe we responded to your email - but please resend it to sales@gmgracing.com it goes to 3 people... Also check your spam mail to make sure you dont have a response sitting in it.
The sway bars will not cause the car to ride harsh or make it hard to drive. They will improve the vehicles to turn and keep the car from rolling over in corners or sudden changes in direction.
We designed our sway bars to work with the stock drop links for a maintenance noise free experience with the product.. While monoball -rod end style links are great for a race they tend to be noisy and un reliable on a road car over time. You can still use them with our sway bars if you want but they are not necessary.
Hope that answers your questions.
I believe we responded to your email - but please resend it to sales@gmgracing.com it goes to 3 people... Also check your spam mail to make sure you dont have a response sitting in it.
The sway bars will not cause the car to ride harsh or make it hard to drive. They will improve the vehicles to turn and keep the car from rolling over in corners or sudden changes in direction.
We designed our sway bars to work with the stock drop links for a maintenance noise free experience with the product.. While monoball -rod end style links are great for a race they tend to be noisy and un reliable on a road car over time. You can still use them with our sway bars if you want but they are not necessary.
Hope that answers your questions.
I had emailed and PMed a few months ago with no reply also (and I did check my spam box!). I have a set of GMG springs and sways on order (from Pfaff in Toronto) and wondered what the recommended setting is for the sways (ie which of the 3 adjustment spots) for front and rear for a car that is mainly a daily driver?
thanks
The Bogg,
I would start the bars in the middle front and rear.
If you still have a push soften the front bar.
For track guys, I would go full stiff in the rear - middle to full soft in the front.
Please feel free to call the shop at anytime you can always catch someone on the phone to get a answer.
I would start the bars in the middle front and rear.
If you still have a push soften the front bar.
For track guys, I would go full stiff in the rear - middle to full soft in the front.
Please feel free to call the shop at anytime you can always catch someone on the phone to get a answer.
The car is in the shop getting the GMG springs and sways installed. Can't wait to see/feel the difference!
If you adjust the sways after they've been put on do you have to do an alignment?
If you adjust the sways after they've been put on do you have to do an alignment?
I ended up ordering Eibach Springs, since they were the only ones who would give me spring rates. I know it sucks developing parts for a limited market, especially in this day and age where everyone and their monkey's uncle will copy your stuff, but I was willing to pay a small (25-50%) premium for "better" springs. I wasn't willing to pay a 100% premium. GMG, Champion, Techart, etc, are all more than double what I spent on the Eibachs and none of them would give me springs rates when I asked.
I understand why they didn't, but it's a sad state of affairs the industry is in.
I doubt I put any of the 3 organizations by choosing to buy off the shelf Eibach springs, but I also refuse to put on parts that won't be identified. Yes, I could have just measured the diameter of the spring wire, and assumed the modulus of steel wouldn't vary much, and I could have measured them on a spring dyno. But, Eibach gave me the information I needed, freely, (they are only slightly stiffer than stock at first, but they are progressive and a decent amount stiffer later, in the front. Linear rate in the back and a decent amount stiffer.)
I understand why they didn't, but it's a sad state of affairs the industry is in.
I doubt I put any of the 3 organizations by choosing to buy off the shelf Eibach springs, but I also refuse to put on parts that won't be identified. Yes, I could have just measured the diameter of the spring wire, and assumed the modulus of steel wouldn't vary much, and I could have measured them on a spring dyno. But, Eibach gave me the information I needed, freely, (they are only slightly stiffer than stock at first, but they are progressive and a decent amount stiffer later, in the front. Linear rate in the back and a decent amount stiffer.)
Our Champion springs are identical to the H&R's in every way. We did a run of privately labeled springs that we had H&R do in white for us, but physically they're the same.
Before we went with H&R, we checked out Eibach and a couple others, but decided that H&R's technical specs matched what most drivers were looking for best. To do our private label sets with just a custom color had to order about 50 sets at time. To do custom spring rates and lowering would have meant several 100 sets at a time. I don't see why any shop would private label a spring just to get a slightly different spring rate, especially with that kind of investment required. In my opinion, if you need that kind of customization in your suspension, you need to be on coilovers anyway, not springs.
I put 20"inch monoblok wheels and lost traction as well as handling.
My shop recommended the Kw3 with nose lift, I do not wanna put stock wheels back but I dont wanna shell out 9k either.
Do you guys think just springs will fix my problem?
Ever since I put those 20inch forgiato's monolegerra I feel like him driving an S-class and I feel like im sliding everywhere.
I am not a track racer but a street racer I dont have room for mistakes when they're are so many street variables involved.
P.s. It aint the tires they are mich ps2's
What do you guys reccommened. btw it's a 2010 pdk turbo cab
My shop recommended the Kw3 with nose lift, I do not wanna put stock wheels back but I dont wanna shell out 9k either.
Do you guys think just springs will fix my problem?
Ever since I put those 20inch forgiato's monolegerra I feel like him driving an S-class and I feel like im sliding everywhere.
I am not a track racer but a street racer I dont have room for mistakes when they're are so many street variables involved.
P.s. It aint the tires they are mich ps2's
What do you guys reccommened. btw it's a 2010 pdk turbo cab
hello speeders , i searched alot here for the best lowering springs , but i found all the mombers who asked were looking to go to drags, Unlike me , i just like to do street races ! the reason i want to lower the car is to better the aerodynamic , more stability in high speed, soft in normal drive, but in the same time i do not want to lower the car alot since my car is my DD , 1 inch will be fine or less if possible !! also i like the PSM system so i will not a get a new system
any idea please , thanks in advance
any idea please , thanks in advance
i can see that your from Kuwait, i can hook you up with the KW dealer here in Dubai if you want , they have good prices and great customer support...
i had eibach springs on my 997.1 TT and i thought it was good , until i tried my friend's car with KW v3 . i now switched to the KW v3 and love how the car handles. so just to advise you , don't waste your cash on springs , get the KW...
i can see that your from Kuwait, i can hook you up with the KW dealer here in Dubai if you want , they have good prices and great customer support...
i can see that your from Kuwait, i can hook you up with the KW dealer here in Dubai if you want , they have good prices and great customer support...
and yes am yousef from kuwait



