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Originally Posted by johnww
(Post 3838903)
But from what I gather above, Durametric settings is not the way to keep wing up in fixed position because full pressure will always be there which will lead to leaks. There has to be a mechanical means to keep the wing fixed in the up position with pumps off so no lingering pressure is present to get leaks started.
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spoiler leak
I think only solution is to drill a 1/16 hole in both tubes and place steel pins in holes to stop wing return. Then just keep switch off. At 70 or so a light could come saying wing lift not working.
Need suggestions from some of the more porsche-knowledgable forum members. Other option is to take out hydraulics and replace with mechanical hold tubes like described above |
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bbywu: not sure what your photo represents? Did you have other photos? And too, what do you think of the idea of just drilling 1/16 inch holes thru pipes just above the outer female-sleeves when wing is up position and placing dowel pins in these holes to permanently hold wing in up-position?? With this set-up, just never press the button to raise wing. This way there may be no oil pressure inside also saving wear and tear on the costly pump.
What are your thoughts on the mechanism of wing? Oil pressure raises wing? There was a suggestion that along with oil, there was some spring action....not sure why a spring would be needed, that is to help assist the up or down movement??? |
Any updates on this fix? thanks!
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Nice thread!!!
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Originally Posted by bbywu
(Post 3573122)
You have a few choices. Choice 1. Use Durametric or PIWIS and deactivate the wing. It won't go up, but it won't set off CELs any more. This is by far the least expensive solution. Choice 2. Replace the entire drive mechanism - pump, wiring, 2 hydraulic piston hinges. Retails $2100. Complete setup part number 99751211102. Add the cost of labor, this is the most expensive option. Choice 3. You (or indy or dealer) try to bleed and purge the system, looking for the leak. If no leak is found, could have been a loose hydraulic sealing bolt. You always run the chance of leaking again. Choice 4. Look on eBay for a used spoiler/decklid, with an intact spoiler mechanism system. Remove it (without opening any of the hydraulic tubing) and do a complete swap. Probably do-able for about $1500. Things to know. 1. The parts to the entire drive mechanism (pump, hydraulic plumbing, hydraulic hinges, bolts, wiring) is available as a complete unit, or as individual parts. If your dealership tells you otherwise, they are mistaken. 2. The hydraulic system can be bled and purged. There is a specific procedure for this that can be found in the electronic PIWIS work service manual. If they tell you the entire system needs to be replaced because it is sealed and can't be purged, they are mistaken.
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Originally Posted by johnww
(Post 3839065)
Your ebworks threw me, but threw google too, which surprised me, because the google usually picks up on different spells.
However, ebwerks gives very little on their products on their webpage, but was very helpful via email, providing a phone # for installation questions, but too have full instructions on way. Product sounds like winner. Just happy to get rid of this infernal leakage/worry/expensive issue with the rear wing. The parts use factory wing and same factory height setting which are great features as well. johnww/anyone have the ebwerks instructions they can send my way? :) |
If you're still in need of a solution, I have a fully functional wing available:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4654348 |
Have it rebuilt with better than OEM seals. Had mine done and works perfectly
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Originally Posted by au2bahn
(Post 4657233)
Have it rebuilt with better than OEM seals. Had mine done and works perfectly
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Originally Posted by mavila
Details? Shops that do this type of work?
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