Garth had a small batch of custom billet 300M steel rods made that are rate for that. We sent in my old carrillo and my old stock rod for them to stress test and take specs from stock rod.

 

Did you get the results back yet? I'm curious on the difference in strength.

 

yeah a while ago, new stuff was pretty impressive. custom vs off the shelf, the results were expected. i don't remember the exact figures but it came with stress charts which were neat.

 

So all 1000hp cars has custom Carrillo and Pauter rods?

 

no, i'd say most people use the off shelf stuff.

 

This is the type of information I'm trying to nail down in this thread. The "high" HP stock block cars are pushing upwards of 1000 HP on the stock rods. I think the Carrillo off the shelf rods are rated at 200 HP/rod. I assume this is a safe rating and that the rods wouldn't bend at 201 HP/rod. I wonder how much HP they'd take reliably over a period of time?

 

At the price diffrence that you pay between off the shelf and custom...you might as well go with garth ...they put in the leg work so paying a little extra is worth it....plus those rods will got you the 300 hp your looking for...

 

Did you get a price from him on the rods?

 

i dont remember the exact price but it was reasonable. Overkill for me, but at that power level (300HP/rod) its worth it.. that's a lot of cylinder pressure.

 

Why not use tested stuff like the evoms 4.0 engine . It has been tested past 1500whp

 

We have everything you need for a top and bottom end to produce and support 1800hp+. For those builds, we built a 4.0L bottom end. It includes a billet crank, custom Carrillo rod, custom piston, custom wrist pin, a couple options for ring packs, and drop-in ductile iron liners. We then offer main studs, 12mm head studs, and the proper head gaskets. Finally, there is some case prep and a few other internal goodies to support and help make the power. It's all parts that have been built, tested, rebuilt, and proven reliable to 1800whp and well past 8000rpm.

On the top end, we have a top end package that includes CnC ported cylinder heads, big valves, big springs, and a solid lifter conversion including cams.

Everything you need to break 215mph 1/2mi and well beyond that.

Contact us if we can assist, I can put you in touch with John Bray.

 

I would love to talk to John. He's obviously proven himself in the industry. I think it will be great to compile of list of mods for everyone that can fall between stock and Anthony. Haha, I think that's a good range of 0-max.

I'm pretty sure there will be a big separation in cost from a 1500 HP to 2200 HP set up like Anthonys. Most guys won't fall in the 2200 HP, sequential transmission area.

 

Things get inherently more difficult as you exceed certain power per cylinder and also power per engine size ( and I mean physical size, not displacement).

There is only so much metal you can have given a certain space, and its hard to keep it all together. Things move around and have excessive wear.

 

I agree 100%, that's why I'm looking to land between 0 and Anthony. I don't want a drag only car, I want it to look and feel exactly like it does now with more hp. I think it will be possible to feel 100% stock with 1200 whp.

So the million dollar question..... what does it take to land there for internal mods?

 

There are a few differences between a 4.0L 1500whp setup and what we're doing with Anthony's. But aside from the transmission and giant ethanol-capable fuel system, the long block doesn't have too much extra mojo over what we're considering a standard 4.0L build with mechanical heads.

A 1500whp or even 1200whp build is pretty high strung. It's definitely possible to make one of those streetable, but it's going to be a pretty big depature from feeling 100% stock. For

Edit: This reply got cut off when I posted, I'll rewrite it when I get a chance.