Originally Posted by vbb (Post 4570581)

You're actually right... probably just as cost effective to buy a new actuator for the side that has failed and have that put on (with an oil change as well, because it couldn't hurt) rather than swapping and driving around waiting for the CEL to come back. In fact, now that I've cleared the code, if (and probably when) it pops back up, I'll just get the new acutator installed. That is the better plan. Thanks.

The mechanic seems to think this is the problem by the way... that the actuator just fails after time. I can live with that, though it is annoying nonetheless.



Yeah, there's an ocean of difference between replacing the actuators and having that fix the problem vs. having to do an entire cam job. I don't have a warranty and didn't get one simply because this is a "toy" that I plan to drive maybe 300 or 400 miles a month, max. That said, as with any used and fairly expensive car, you always hope to avoid the doomsday scenario where you get hit with a $5K+ repair bill. In fact, one of the motivating factors in selling my previous 997.2 non-turbo with PDK was that I didn't want to have a failed transmission and end up having to spend $14K on a total replacement. Figured the 997.1TT Mezger is old faithful, right?

Let's just say I'm hoping that the actuator is all I need.

Originally Posted by TAILWAG (Post 4571218)

Good luck man - yes, worth it giving the actuator a shot first. Let us know how it works out.

Originally Posted by TAILWAG (Post 4571218)

Good luck man - yes, worth it giving the actuator a shot first. Let us know how it works out.

Originally Posted by vbb (Post 4571536)

So a fairly strange thing happened that I thought was worth mentioning. I reset the cel, and it came back on after about eight or nine miles of driving which confirmed for me that it wasn't just going to stay off. I reset the cel again and then put the car in sport mode. I must have driven another 20 miles since, and the light still has not come back on. I was not driving especially hard or anything, but for some reason, sport mode seems to have at least increased the intervals at which the light comes back on. I put the car back in my garage and haven't driven it since, but still no cel.

Don't get me wrong, I am still going to get a new actuator and have that swapped out along with the oil, but just wondering if somehow sport mode affects this particular issue. It should be noted that, thankfully, my car is still not behaving strangely or anything. It drives fine. I hope that's a good sign.

Originally Posted by NY6SPEEDER (Post 4571557)

I remember reading some similar stories about guys clearing the code then beating the piss out of the car for a little bit and it never coming back. Strange, but I'm starting to really believe that the issue lies in the actuators and not the cams themselves. If that is indeed true, then we can finally lay this issue to rest as I'm sure most people would be ok with spending $500-600 as opposed to $5000-6000.

Originally Posted by TAILWAG (Post 4571664)

When you "beat the piss" out of the car, oil pressure and heat increase...if there are any particles stuck in the orifices on the actuator, it is possible that they are free out with the added heat/pressure. When in sport mode, there is a little more boost and I would think everything is working a little harder; is it working hard enough to free up any particles blocking the access of the oil in the actuator? I guess it is possible.

There is no doubt that actuators go bad - it is a wear item.
There is also no doubt that some cams are troublesome as they are getting stuck in the "high" position. I think they are both problems that are not necessarily related to one another.

Originally Posted by aer (Post 4605435)

Any chance anyone knows the size of the external torx socket you need to remove the actuator?

Originally Posted by aer (Post 4605435)

Any chance anyone knows the size of the external torx socket you need to remove the actuator?

Originally Posted by Carlitos way (Post 4650274)

I'm sorry to revive this thread but I need to know the exact part numbers of both camshaft actuator solenoids.

1- 99710530373 and what is the other one?
2- ?

Thanks a lot!
Carl

Originally Posted by dinorocz (Post 4657053)

same part number.

Originally Posted by Carlitos way (Post 4657081)

Thanks dinorocz, believe it or not decided to drive my car in Sport mode like a madman for a while and the Check Engine light went away!!!! I'm so happy right now, no need to change anything :)

Originally Posted by turboslut (Post 4570569)

The labor $ you will spend (if not doing it yourself) of swapping actuators and seeing if the bad actuator switches the code to the other bank is going to eat into money that you can just spend on getting a new actuator to begin with. I have begun to wonder if a failing actuator is ultimately the cause of the spun camshaft in the end (given that actuators do fail).

Originally Posted by TAILWAG (Post 4657530)

Funny how that works, huh? LOL.

How long ago did you change your oil?