My exhaust install nightmare
This is exactly why I didn't attempt to install my europipe exhaust (I have VERY minimal auto work experience but had a friend with plenty). Once I read about all the seized bolts/nuts I said forget it! I paid an indy shop $400 and in 3-4 hours it was done. I envy all of you 6speeders who know how to work on your own cars but sometimes, your sanity is worth more than the saved money. Glad OP finally got his exhaust up and hope you're enjoying it!
LOL at the comments (AND NOT AT TH OP experience)!!
Reading this is like the OP did this to boost service sales numbers!!

This is exactly why I didn't attempt to install my europipe exhaust (I have VERY minimal auto work experience but had a friend with plenty). Once I read about all the seized bolts/nuts I said forget it! I paid an indy shop $400 and in 3-4 hours it was done. I envy all of you 6speeders who know how to work on your own cars but sometimes, your sanity is worth more than the saved money. Glad OP finally got his exhaust up and hope you're enjoying it!
100% agree my friend!!
That is a great idea
I am attempting soon. For those who have done this...did you buy studs and nuts from Porsche or somewhere else? Are there any particular materials necessary since holding together exhaust components?
I am attempting soon. For those who have done this...did you buy studs and nuts from Porsche or somewhere else? Are there any particular materials necessary since holding together exhaust components?
Yea they can be a bi*** to do for sure. I found that a dremel with a small disk works well to just cut the nuts. Then take a small chisel and open them up. Then it's just a matter of cleaning up all the stud threads. Unfortunately I didn't figure that out until I spent 4 or 5 hours on the first side.
Last edited by turboslut; Sep 28, 2016 at 04:20 PM.
Florida car next to the water is just as bad if not worse (rust all over not just underside) than northeast car at times.
Florida car according to the carfax, but who the heck knows on a 10 year old car with 52k miles.
I have fully finished 24x30 workship with 14 foot ceilings, I had initially planned on air conditioning it but my roll up door doesn't seal well enough to keep it cool - during the mid day even with the big a$$ fan it just doesn't stay cool enough to be enjoyable.
I did the techart exhaust - sounds great, but not loud.
I have fully finished 24x30 workship with 14 foot ceilings, I had initially planned on air conditioning it but my roll up door doesn't seal well enough to keep it cool - during the mid day even with the big a$$ fan it just doesn't stay cool enough to be enjoyable.
I did the techart exhaust - sounds great, but not loud.
Man it wasn't my intent to turn anyone OFF of doing this, it's simple nut and bolts work, but for me it turned out extra ****ty... here is my advice
1. Expect it to not be smooth, be prepared for it
2. I replaced the stud/nut combo with grade 10 BOLTS with locking flange heads - any fastenal has these
3. On the drivers side turbo where I had to do all the drilling I replaced all the studs/nuts with BOLTS/NUTS that were slightly smaller, m6 rather than M8, frankly I wish I had done this on the pass side also because then all the hardware would have matched and it's easier to get on and off.
4. The studs in my opinion are ONLY useful for positioning the exhaust without nuts, otherwise bolts/nuts are easily reachable on both sides of the turbine housing and easier/safer to snug down from both sides - and worse case scenario they can be loosened from both sides in the future.
The job itself is not HARD it's just porsche seems to make those studs and nuts out of pot metal - my 140k mile supra had hardware that was MUCH Easier to take apart and it was 10 years older with 90k more miles. I Can't explain why so many people break those studs or strip the nuts, but it seems to be pretty common.
Also keep in mind, even if I had taken it to a "professional" they would have had the same problems, I'm pretty f'ing mechanical, have all the tools and except for a lift couldn't have made it any easier on myself - if I had taken it to my favorite porsche shop, the "300$" quote would have easily turned into a grand or more by the time they had to cut and drill or weld and back out studs, or they would have removed the turbos and taken them to a machine shop.
1. Expect it to not be smooth, be prepared for it
2. I replaced the stud/nut combo with grade 10 BOLTS with locking flange heads - any fastenal has these
3. On the drivers side turbo where I had to do all the drilling I replaced all the studs/nuts with BOLTS/NUTS that were slightly smaller, m6 rather than M8, frankly I wish I had done this on the pass side also because then all the hardware would have matched and it's easier to get on and off.
4. The studs in my opinion are ONLY useful for positioning the exhaust without nuts, otherwise bolts/nuts are easily reachable on both sides of the turbine housing and easier/safer to snug down from both sides - and worse case scenario they can be loosened from both sides in the future.
The job itself is not HARD it's just porsche seems to make those studs and nuts out of pot metal - my 140k mile supra had hardware that was MUCH Easier to take apart and it was 10 years older with 90k more miles. I Can't explain why so many people break those studs or strip the nuts, but it seems to be pretty common.
Also keep in mind, even if I had taken it to a "professional" they would have had the same problems, I'm pretty f'ing mechanical, have all the tools and except for a lift couldn't have made it any easier on myself - if I had taken it to my favorite porsche shop, the "300$" quote would have easily turned into a grand or more by the time they had to cut and drill or weld and back out studs, or they would have removed the turbos and taken them to a machine shop.
I bought the studs from Porsche and the nuts from the hardware store. I would NOT recommend using the Porsche copper nuts.
pulled the studs and nuts off tossed them in the trash. went to home depot and for about 5$ bought all new grade 5 hardware. just went with hex head bolts. watch the length i used 25mm long bolts. allens if you want i dont like them due to cats getting in the way. also dropped another 1$ for a lock washers!
Bought the studs from porsche and the nuts at the autoparts store because my dealer didn't have them. But I should have just bought it all from the autoparts store because it was 1/3 the price. High temp Anti Seize on everything and all new stock gaskets.
Also keep in mind, even if I had taken it to a "professional" they would have had the same problems, I'm pretty f'ing mechanical, have all the tools and except for a lift couldn't have made it any easier on myself - if I had taken it to my favorite porsche shop, the "300$" quote would have easily turned into a grand or more by the time they had to cut and drill or weld and back out studs, or they would have removed the turbos and taken them to a machine shop.
By reading your post OP, my fingers and all numb and in pain...and I think I even built a sweat. LOL. Sucks that you had to go through all that agony.
But...just think about the great sounds of the turbos spooling...!!
But...just think about the great sounds of the turbos spooling...!!
When I bought my Europipe my Dealer put it own for me at a nice price. They had more tools than I had and it has never had an issue. I admire your efforts. You have to be given credit for your tenacity.
Jay
Jay
I'm surprised you didn't also deal with stripping the O2 sensors. That's what always happens to my mechanic. Always end up with one getting stripped on the way out. Almost all my exhaust changes, I've had to buy one new O2 sensor.





