997TT Oil Change
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I don't even have 4k miles yet and have left the filter alone for now, but have drained the oil twice.[/quote]
I would think the filter is as important if not more than changing the syn-oil at this earlier times. Just an opinion. And too, I can understand too much time from the family, but for the oil change (an hour at home) vs. all day at the dealer is a no-brainer. Plus sometimes at home it is good to let the wife know, you are doing your own work to save the family money. An oil change is +$275 at Porsche, whereas it can be done at home for less than $80. The Mobil 0-40 oil can be bought at Orielly's parts and the filter at porsche is only $11. However, still having a problem locating the oil tank supposedly near the inside of the right rear fender. Plus, if you work slow, you know the job is done correctly at the house.
I would think the filter is as important if not more than changing the syn-oil at this earlier times. Just an opinion. And too, I can understand too much time from the family, but for the oil change (an hour at home) vs. all day at the dealer is a no-brainer. Plus sometimes at home it is good to let the wife know, you are doing your own work to save the family money. An oil change is +$275 at Porsche, whereas it can be done at home for less than $80. The Mobil 0-40 oil can be bought at Orielly's parts and the filter at porsche is only $11. However, still having a problem locating the oil tank supposedly near the inside of the right rear fender. Plus, if you work slow, you know the job is done correctly at the house.
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Originally Posted by eclou
It is an easy job. 2 drain bolts to remove - 1 in the center of the crankcase, 1 in the oil reservoir (looks like an accordion) on the passenger side. I don't bother with draining the turbo reservoirs (2).
Eugene,
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Originally Posted by eclou
Yes. Those are the drain bolts. The 2 other drains on the turbo reservoirs hold so little oil I don't consider them worth draining.
Interesting in the owner's manual:"We recommend that you have the engine oil changed at your Porsche dealeer, who has the required oils and the necessary filling equipment." Wonder what they mean by necessary filling equipment???
A final point, the reason to change the oil more frequently than Porsche recommends (20K) is to preserve the engine, but if one trades the car at 50-60K anyway, I quess all this extra effort is for the next owner....sometimes this extra effort/money really doesn't make any sense.
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Originally Posted by eclou
John,
I think you need to take a breath and relax. It is just an oil change. You spent more time typing that post than it takes to actually change the oil.
I think you need to take a breath and relax. It is just an oil change. You spent more time typing that post than it takes to actually change the oil.
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John, I can't speak for the Turbo yet but for my 997S I always replaced the gaskets (both engine bolt and oil filter) each time. They're very inexpensive so grab a few next time you visit the dealer. My understanding for the Turbo is drain all the oil from both bolts (see above). Make sure you remove the oil filter in the engine compartment so most of the oil flows out with no restrictions. Replace the oil filter with a new insert and gasket, torque the filter to about 17 -19 psi using a torque wrench (no you don't need one but its cheap insurance IMO). Replace the engine bolts using new gaskets if necessary. I torqued the 997S engine bolt to 37 psi but that was made of aluminum so you need to have someone else confirm the correct setting for the turbo. I'm surprised that no one has posted a DIY for the 997 TT yet? I'm a hands on guy that likes to do things myself because I know it will get done right. Its a good idea to change the oil and filter in your car after initial breakin. I think its just common sense but others think its overkill. It makes no difference to me, I change the oil after the first 1000 miles, and every 5-6K miles after that or once a year. Since I havent done a turbo yet I dont want to give out the wrong information. I would be interested in knowing the proper procedure for replacing the oil on a turbo? Is it different than a 997S (the turbo is a true drysump)? Come on guys, I know some of you do your own oil changes. Its a hassle to take it to the dealership when it can be done in less than 1 hour at home even if cost is not an issue?
Last edited by gradyex; Apr 21, 2007 at 05:09 AM.
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Appreciate the detailed write-up
Originally Posted by gradyex
John, I can't speak for the Turbo yet but for my 997S I always replaced the gaskets (both engine bolt and oil filter) each time. They're very inexpensive so grab a few next time you visit the dealer. My understanding for the Turbo is drain all the oil from both bolts (see above). Make sure you remove the oil filter in the engine compartment so most of the oil flows out with no restrictions. Replace the oil filter with a new insert and gasket, torque the filter to about 17 -19 psi using a torque wrench (no you don't need one but its cheap insurance IMO). Replace the engine bolts using new gaskets if necessary. I torqued the 997S engine bolt to 37 psi but that was made of aluminum so you need to have someone else confirm the correct setting for the turbo. I'm surprised that no one has posted a DIY for the 997 TT yet? I'm a hands on guy that likes to do things myself because I know it will get done right. Its a good idea to change the oil and filter in your car after initial breakin. I think its just common sense but others think its overkill. It makes no difference to me, I change the oil after the first 1000 miles, and
every 5-6K miles after that or once a year. Since I havent done a turbo yetI dont want to give out the wrong information. I would be interested in
knowing the proper procedure for replacing the oil on a turbo? Is it different
than a 997S (the turbo is a true drysump)? Come on guys, I know some of you do your own oil changes. Its a hassle to take it to the dealership when it can be done in less than 1 hour at home even if cost is not an issue?
every 5-6K miles after that or once a year. Since I havent done a turbo yetI dont want to give out the wrong information. I would be interested in
knowing the proper procedure for replacing the oil on a turbo? Is it different
than a 997S (the turbo is a true drysump)? Come on guys, I know some of you do your own oil changes. Its a hassle to take it to the dealership when it can be done in less than 1 hour at home even if cost is not an issue?
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Originally Posted by eclou
John,
I think you need to take a breath and relax. It is just an oil change. You spent more time typing that post than it takes to actually change the oil.
I think you need to take a breath and relax. It is just an oil change. You spent more time typing that post than it takes to actually change the oil.
Check "gradyex" comments below. It's a shame there are not more Porsche drivers like him. He's much more understanding, a bit more knowledgeable and with his attitude and consideration of others, makes life on this planet a bit easier and more enjoyable.
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Update, i found some information that might be usefull. The torque specs for the bolts are as follows: Oil drain plug on crankcase= 70mn or 52 ft lbs, Oil drain plug for oil container= 60mn or 44 ftlbs, Oil drain plugs for turbochargers (more on this)* = 30mn or 22 ft lbs, oil filter cover = 25mn or 19ft lbs. It is not necessary to drain the turbo chargers and the amount of oil you remove from the engine will vary because of this and other factors. Please note: 1/3 of the oil will remain in the engine so the amount you will drain can vary. The best way to find out how many quarts to put back is to measure the old oil and only replace that amount with new oil. One person filled up two 1 gallon plastic milk jugs so he replaced 8 qts. Another only removed 6.5 quarts so its very important to measure the amount you removed. Do not overfill! Thats it. I went to my dealer today to get the O rings for the bolts, a new filter and a new rubber gasket. Now if i can only get my car! Part numbers# 1 ea 996 107 225 52 or 996 107 225 53 (Oil filter insert + new rubber gasket. 1 ea 999 707 465 40 (small O-ring). 1 ea 900 123 010 20 (copper sealing ring for oil tank). 1 ea 900 123 118 30 (aluminum sealing ring for engine drain plug) 9 ea 996 106 665 55 (Mobil one OW-40). Tools needed: (1) Tire ramps or jack (2) 9 qt + oil catch pan and 2 empty 1 gallon plastic milk jugs for accurate measurement. (3) 15 mm socket for crankcase drain (4) 27mm and 19mm socket for oil tank drain (remove the oil tank screw 19mm while holding the nut above it 27mm wrench to avoid twisting the tank itself) (5) oil filter wrench (PN 000 721 920 40 or tool 9204 at your Porsche dealer). and finally (6) Torque wrench (optional but recomended). Make sure oil has been brought to proper operating temperature so be sure to protect your hands from burning using the right gloves. Allow at least 20 minutes to drain completely. Replace filter and new gaskets, measure volume removed and replace. Check oil level according to owners manual.
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Originally Posted by gradyex
jhbrennan, the information came from renntech's technical forum and it is specific to a 996 TT, 996 GT3. I did post a question on the board as to why there is nothing specific to a 997 TT FIY oil change. I have good reason to beleive that they are the same but will verify it in the upcoming days/weeks. The 52 ft lbs for the oil drain plug on crankcase is correct for a 996 TT. The spare oil tank is a bit more delicate (thats why it requires 2 tools to remove (see above). THe figure for that is 44 ft lbs. Having a torque wrench is CHEAP insurance IMO and well worth every penny! You could opt for a cheap one and it should work, however I prefer to spend a few hundred dollars for a tool that I will have for a liftime and come in handy for other projects. (purchased at Griots garage + it is tested to be accurate. He will also test it for free for life). The dealership goes the whole nine yards removing the turbo bolts and tilting the car just right. You should get 9 quarts total if done properly. I added the measuring part as a precaution for those of us that do not get 9 quarts for one reason or another. Its IMPORTANT not to overfill the oil with more than whats removed. After your first change you do not need to verify every ounce of oil removed. A good eye should be all that you need. You should always check the oil on a regular basis and top off as necessary (I usually like to keep it 1 bar from the top). AS soon as I get some response to my inquiry I will post it so there is no doubt as to the proper procedure on a 997 TT. I still am amazed that this DIY is not easier to access after almost 1 year of model inception. I am doing mine right after break in and every 5-7K miles or once a year after that. It is not important to drain 100% of the oil so regular changes are even more important. If your not a DIY type guy take it in and don't worry about it. We all know that if you can afford a turbo you will have no issues paying for an oil change but that wasn't the reason for my post.
I have two good torque wrenches - Craftsman and am wondering what conventional wisdom says about how often to get them calibrated. Do you know?
I have changed the oil on a 997 and it was relatively painless - didn't even have to lift the car - just needed a low profile drain pan. The TT is more complicated so I'm not sure if I'll tackle that one, but now armed with your information, I certainly know what to ask the Porshe service guys about their process. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by gradyex
Update, i found some information that might be usefull. The torque specs for the bolts are as follows: Oil drain plug on crankcase= 70mn or 52 ft lbs, Oil drain plug for oil container= 60mn or 44 ftlbs, Oil drain plugs for turbochargers (more on this)* = 30mn or 22 ft lbs, oil filter cover = 25mn or 19ft lbs. It is not necessary to drain the turbo chargers and the amount of oil you remove from the engine will vary because of this and other factors. Please note: 1/3 of the oil will remain in the engine so the amount you will drain can vary. The best way to find out how many quarts to put back is to measure the old oil and only replace that amount with new oil. One person filled up two 1 gallon plastic milk jugs so he replaced 8 qts. Another only removed 6.5 quarts so its very important to measure the amount you removed. Do not overfill! Thats it. I went to my dealer today to get the O rings for the bolts, a new filter and a new rubber gasket. Now if i can only get my car! Part numbers# 1 ea 996 107 225 52 or 996 107 225 53 (Oil filter insert + new rubber gasket. 1 ea 999 707 465 40 (small O-ring). 1 ea 900 123 010 20 (copper sealing ring for oil tank). 1 ea 900 123 118 30 (aluminum sealing ring for engine drain plug) 9 ea 996 106 665 55 (Mobil one OW-40). Tools needed: (1) Tire ramps or jack (2) 9 qt + oil catch pan and 2 empty 1 gallon plastic milk jugs for accurate measurement. (3) 15 mm socket for crankcase drain (4) 27mm and 19mm socket for oil tank drain (remove the oil tank screw 19mm while holding the nut above it 27mm wrench to avoid twisting the tank itself) (5) oil filter wrench (PN 000 721 920 40 or tool 9204 at your Porsche dealer). and finally (6) Torque wrench (optional but recomended). Make sure oil has been brought to proper operating temperature so be sure to protect your hands from burning using the right gloves. Allow at least 20 minutes to drain completely. Replace filter and new gaskets, measure volume removed and replace. Check oil level according to owners manual.
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Originally Posted by gradyex
Update, i found some information that might be usefull. The torque specs for the bolts are as follows: Oil drain plug on crankcase= 70mn or 52 ft lbs, Oil drain plug for oil container= 60mn or 44 ftlbs, Oil drain plugs for turbochargers (more on this)* = 30mn or 22 ft lbs, oil filter cover = 25mn or 19ft lbs. It is not necessary to drain the turbo chargers and the amount of oil you remove from the engine will vary because of this and other factors. Please note: 1/3 of the oil will remain in the engine so the amount you will drain can vary. The best way to find out how many quarts to put back is to measure the old oil and only replace that amount with new oil. One person filled up two 1 gallon plastic milk jugs so he replaced 8 qts. Another only removed 6.5 quarts so its very important to measure the amount you removed. Do not overfill! Thats it. I went to my dealer today to get the O rings for the bolts, a new filter and a new rubber gasket. Now if i can only get my car! Part numbers# 1 ea 996 107 225 52 or 996 107 225 53 (Oil filter insert + new rubber gasket. 1 ea 999 707 465 40 (small O-ring). 1 ea 900 123 010 20 (copper sealing ring for oil tank). 1 ea 900 123 118 30 (aluminum sealing ring for engine drain plug) 9 ea 996 106 665 55 (Mobil one OW-40). Tools needed: (1) Tire ramps or jack (2) 9 qt + oil catch pan and 2 empty 1 gallon plastic milk jugs for accurate measurement. (3) 15 mm socket for crankcase drain (4) 27mm and 19mm socket for oil tank drain (remove the oil tank screw 19mm while holding the nut above it 27mm wrench to avoid twisting the tank itself) (5) oil filter wrench (PN 000 721 920 40 or tool 9204 at your Porsche dealer). and finally (6) Torque wrench (optional but recomended). Make sure oil has been brought to proper operating temperature so be sure to protect your hands from burning using the right gloves. Allow at least 20 minutes to drain completely. Replace filter and new gaskets, measure volume removed and replace. Check oil level according to owners manual.
