I don't think its fixed. The pedal is too soft, sinks too much and needs to be pumped up. I just don't like the car this way.

 

I would start documenting all your visits and note all comments/incidents from all your visits. Its good to keep notes so say six - eight months from now you have good notes and don't have to rely on memory. Oh, and don't keep the notebook in the car.

 

It may sound petty but I would report the theft of a personal notebook to the GM of the dealership. I would not give them one leg to stand on if you are 100% sure what you did had no effect on the issues your facing.

 

I think the dyno pulls could have readily caused the damage. Considering that one can overheat the brakes during a track session if not careful, running on a dyno which allows for no brake cooling whatsoever could be a disaster. I would be very wary of running a 4wd car on a 2wd dyno with the front shaft disconnected. The TT has very sophisticated layers of stability control that recognize the slightest differential in front and rear wheel speeds. There is no more brake bias valve in the system, and the computer fully varies the braking bias especially to the rear to try to achieve balance. What your dyno shop did was to really overwhelm the braking/stability programs while gunning the motor at WOT. It makes perfect sense why the brakes got cooked. Gt3 owners are finding the same phenomenon after heavy track sessions - rear brakes cooked, worn completely, cracked due to overactive rear braking initiated by tire size deviations from stock.

 

eclou, the dealer said they bled the brakes and abs system, put in a new master cylinder and abs module, but its still not right, way too soft and not consistent pedal height. Do you have any suggestions? I'm thinking of finding a shop in Maryland that knows Porsche brakes, the dealer won't do anything more. Do you have a suggestion for a shop in Maryland? Thanks

 

eclou, the car had cut tires on one side which were replaced. They said to replace the other rear tire because it was more than 30% worn. This didn't seem like much but I put on a new one so two new tires are now on the rear. Is the car that sensitive to variations in tire diameter? Thanks.

 

The tire diameter variations can be up to 2% if IIRC. There has to be some allowance for tire wear.

The culprit I would look for would be bad piston seals in the rear calipers themselves and perhaps even scored or warped pistons themselves. Definitely an entire FLUSH of the brake fluid should be done and not just a simple bleed. Your old fluid is probably burned.

 

Hi Guys,

Having several hours of 997 dyno time under my belt I am going to add some fuel to the fire...

You can not, under no circumstances disconnect the front drive shaft, it WILL do damage.

You can not run these cars on a non-linked AWD dyno (i.e. Dynojet). Everything must be equal rolling at the same rate or you will run into problems and that is why you should only use a Dyno Dynamics or a Mustang, trust me when I say this. 996 you can drop the front shaft however the 997 awd system is very different.

Brian

 

I hate to ask how much problems you have encountered now.....

 

The notebook is theft, no matter how you look at it. It may only be a 5 dollar note book but it's completely unethical and completely illegal. If your dealership will do this to you they will do pretty much anything, go straight to the parent company on this atleast to let them know of how their dealership is operating and personally I would file a lawsuit. My .02 cents.

 

sorry to thread jack a bit here, eclou, I was wondering about the rear brakes issue. My pads on the rear had to be replaced recently while my fronts still had around 60-70% of pad left. I did around 6 track events up to that point, and I was running OEM sizes toyo R888s as my tires, could this have caused a problem?

Does it help if DSC is off or on?

 

PERSONALLY I HAVE HAD ZERO PROBLEMS... However, since I was not by any means the first guy to run a 997T I listened to the grapevine and heard a few shops that run into "some sort of issue" when running these cars. My first question was if it had anything to do with the PSM freaking out. What I got back was something to the effect of yes but they were not sure why as of yet. With that being said, I called some of my dealer people around the US to see if they had run into any problems like this and one dealer had a turbo that was all messed up in the rear about how it locked up on the owner when he was on a dyno. They did not know which machine it was on and I asked specifically if it was a linked machine, they said it was not. Having that info and having a Dynojet 424x at the previous shop I worked at I was taking no chances and got on a Dyno Dynamics machine when I was testing my first APR 997T flash. I usually do not listen to the rumor mill however in this particular application and figured I would rather be safe then sorry etc...

Brian

 

I have run a ton of 997TT's on our Dynojet 424xlc2 with no problems, and it is not a linked machine...

 

Does this car have ANY mods?? If they looked at your notebook, which I think is actionable, what would they do with a ecu flash and muffer change?? Also, I sure would like the name of this dealer. Did they void your warranty---which would REALLY **** me off.
I guess now you can go to an after market system like Brembo, but that probably costs--but maybe worth if it solves your problem.
This story rivals General Motors horror stories

 

Jeremy,

424x (the most popular DJ AWD hence my general warning) does not have load control, your 424xlc2 does which is working out for you and that is awesome. I think it is an extra 30k for both eddy current motors to upgrade an inertia DJ.

Brian