Cattman,

We could talk about this further, I just felt we were getting off topic from your original thread. Also I do feel the problem I have had is associated with a very small precentage of cars; mainly ones that have been highly modified and have had many of the stock components removed, unplugged or by-passed. Almost sorry I brought the topic up as I hope I have not created any panic or concerns for those with street car flashes.

As for sending your ecu off, that is what we have always done in the past. The dealership can only deal with stock settings or factory approved upgrades ( I believe? ). If it is an established tuner or company I would think you would be in perfect hands. Right now with this economy every current and potential customer is a VIP to those of us who deal with supporting peoples hobbies.

If you are a guy who likes to tinker on his car, something you could do is just buy an empty ecu from the dealership and have them put the stock settings of your car from the vin number on that ecu. I know the dealership can just do this for you at any time; but there might be a time where you can get to a dealership or you are at a track event. Paid your track fee's, service department closed on weekends or like at VIR no dealership unless you go to Greensboro or Richmond. Just a thought.

Thanks and again sorry if I created any panic for any body, it was not my intention.

Thanks again, Kerrigan

 

Cattman

Have you managed to try resetting your ECU yet? Did it work as well as it did on my car? Turned it from a POS to a really nice drive again. Looking forward to the outcome and hopefully to your being able to enjoy the car again

 

Any updates?

 

I think he's out price shopping for an SC

Hey don't you have a job?

 

Actually Ian's advice is great even if you are doing just a full exhaust. I always do this with my car whenever I change something.

Dave

 

I am going to do as Ian has suggested (2 hour unplug of the negative battery terminal) tomorrow morning. Hope it makes a difference- I will certainly update the thread as soon as I do it.
CATTMAN

 

Keep us updated

 

The negative lead is now officially disconnected. Interesting to note: my negative lead is on the right as you stand in front of the car, while Ian's is on the left- could be due to the right hand drive?

In any case: 2 helpful tips when doing this:
1. DO NOT close the lid while the battery is disconnected. The unlock button is electric, and you won't get it open again!
2. Don't open the doors! The window function that lowers them half an inch when you open and close them will be disabled, so if you open the doors, you won't get them closed again until you reconnect the battery.

I'll reconnect it in 2 hours, then go for a drive and report back. Fingers are crossed!
CATTMAN

 

Good luck - hope the 'cure' works as it should.

I had no idea the +/- leads on the battery were different on US spec cars compared to UK. Will bear this in mind for the future....

 

It's because you limey blokes do everything on the wrong side
CATTMAN

 

Interesting about the battery - the 997 parts catalog shows the same part numbers for ROW and US batteries - maybe they mount the battery backwards in the UK cars???

 

Re-attached the battery, and went for a spirited 20 minute drive. PSM and PASM failure warnings came on, and went away quickly on their own. I know it will take for than a 20 minute drive for the ECU to "learn", but I do believe the car feels better- less sluggish.

One possibility of what is going: the new AH pipes have really changed the sound, and the lower tone might be tricking me into thinking I've lost some zip. But that wouldn't explain getting creamed by the Lexus, or my wife's BMW 550 the other day.

I'll report back after a long drive. I will also get to a dyno and see what the results are. If all else fails, it could be entirely in my head, in which case it may finally be time for a TT or an SC.
CATTMAN

 

thx for the update- run a dyno and post the printout so we can take a peek.

btw I just creamed a 335i today on the freeway- The 335i is a powerhouse on the straight and he was right on my ****, no way of course I could shake him- But as soon as I hit the 73 > 405 north onramp sweeper it was "buh bye".... he had to drop way off on the speed and I just kept it flat / nailed all the way through. I love pcars .

This really reminded me though that I have to quit slacking and get the KW suspension put on. way too much lack of rebound control with those stock shocks.

 

See, I don't want a $40k car on my "****". May need to simply verify that I am pulling the correct HP for my car as modded, then either sell it for a TT or SC it.

 

After a few days and about 100 miles, I'm thrilled to report that my car is back! It's a beast off the line, strong through all 6 gears, and terrific fun at WOT from 3,000-7,000 RPM's.

Seems Ian's advice paid off. I am still going to get on a dyno soon just to take a look at the power curve, but I'm thrilled.
CATTMAN