I found the old model GTech Pro easiest to use, compared to the SS or RR. While the SS and RR provide more features, I found the screen harder to read and the menu more cumbersome to operate. As Stacy said, just find an inexpensive older model.

Craigslist is an on-line site for buying and selling items by geographic area. I don't believe it is available in China. Try eBay instead. Maybe Stacy can arrange to loan you one, like he did for some of us here in USA/Canada.

 

Thanks for the advice. It is quite impossible to find such things in China (most likely it is made there) and more costly as well. Unfortunately, I'm not going to Whistler to ski this year, else will give Stacy a call & see his car - read so much about it !!
I ordered the smaller 3.6" pulley, look forward to a little increase in performance.

 

I want to ask you i have made a dyno with my iphone with dynolicious app.
for my car 997 4s cab tiptronic with softronic,AWE cats ,K&N filter,x51 headers,and the results was 296 net whp.How muts is the drivertrain loss in my car?

 

If you are not running a supercharger or turbo...it is EXACTLY where it should be!
Remember you are also dealing with wind at speed...and that will count for some loss BUT otherwise you are a typical good running car!

Stacy

 

I agree with Stacy. Remember, you have an AWD car with tiptronic, so the drive train losses are higher than a RWD car. You should be happy with your results. They also show that the mods you've made don't make much if any measurable difference to power output, as most of us have found. On my next car, I'm going to save my money on mods, unless Stacy talks me into installing the supercharger sitting in boxes in my garage!

 

WOOHOO Kenny boy,
NOW you are thinking clearly now!
Wait until we meet for lunch here in the next couple of days!

Stacy

 

Just received an email from 1999,who has my Gtech in the cold Chicago area.
He is making 5 PSI @ 4600 RPMS and 9 PSI @ 6850 RPM....I CANNOT wait to get this Gtech reading once the roads get better for him...just too dangerous for the road conditions to do a pull at 100 mpph!
If you are ever lucky enough to get to talk to this guy he has the worst sense of humor,drives one of the cheapest 911's out there but frick' he know his stuff when it comes to this supercharger crap!
This,my friends,IS one of the guys that I am looking forward to meeting one day and taking his cheapo car for a rip,LOL!!!!
Nice work Jim.....now invent something that will dry the roads as you drive on them!


Stacy

 

+1 onto Stacy's kudo's to 1999. I know I already owe him

 

I have to drive the cheapest 996 since it was the first and only watercooled Porsche that had LSD without all the sissy controls such as PMS and Egas. I also avoided the embarassment of driving down the street with a canvas top on my car, pretending I am driving a performance car.

 

It´s a miracle your car is still running so strong PAG should pay millions for your cheap 996 in order to make it a case study .
For how long do you have your 996SC? I believe more than seven years right?

J.Seven

 

Stacy,......u just got pounded!

 

I’ve had the supercharger on the car for 6 years and more than 50,000 miles. Installed by Todd at EVOM. It was the first on a 99 C2. Since then, I have taken all reasonable steps to explode the engine, increasing boost and making other adjustments to predictably increase the stress to the engine. So far, no luck. I have run boost levels at the maximum possible to the point of compressor surge, and still no luck. I have been running in excess of 7 psi for the past few years and the damn thing still starts every morning. Worse thing that ever happens is the intake tube might blow off if I fail to secure it properly. I run the cheapest, single ground copper plugs I can find. I use Mobil 0W40 religiously, but only for lubricating the door hinges. Engine internals are protected by Mobil’s 15W50 oil all year round. I burn no oil, but weep a little from the various common areas such as plug tubes and cam covers. I have the original RMS. I also have the original brakes which tell you I use the engine for most of my braking. Most of my brake wear is a result of the traction control kicking in when I forget to turn it off. I run a stronger clutch and pressure plate since the original one would not hold running 8 psi. The rev limiter is tested regularly.

I run a modified chip with most sissy controls turned off. I can run on 3 cylinders or with O2 sensors disconnected and never see a CEL. This allows me to push the engine outside the parameters dictated by the factory with no fear of interference from the computer. Since I don’t have Egas, I can keep my throttle open regardless of what the computer wants me to do. My redline has been reduce to less than 7,000 rpm, allowing me to establish more boot at lower engine speeds. I run with close to factory established back pressure in the exhaust, with the only modification being slightly freer flowing mufflers from an 02 C4S. This greatly increases low end torque and keeps the engine tight, but substantially decreases top end hp. If I was 18 again, I probably would free up the exhaust and accept the regular tickets as a cost of driving. But, I am no longer at that stage of life.

I control what the computer does (within reason) by controlling what it sees. In many cases, I tell the computer what I want it to know and not what is actually happening. This allows me to massage timing and fuel control. I run the engine richer than necessary for safety. Don’t believe those who claim that the fuel pump cannot deliver the amount of fuel necessary. As a matter of fact, if I do not use my variable MAF signal, my Long Term Fuel Trim is pegged at -25%. I also have done other mods that maintain engine and intake temperatures cooler than originally designed.

The biggest weakness of the car is the short gearing in first and second. Ist gear is only used to start rolling before forcing you to shift into second. Installing taller gears would be a mod that would substantially improve the performance of the car up to 120 mph.

Dyno’s are meaningless. I have charts ranging from 385 rwhp to as high as 434 rwhp. I measure the success of my mods by the change in performance in the way I drive my car.

I drive the car cross country often, but carry a cell phone with me at all times. If I finally achieve my goal of exploding the engine, I will probably call a flatbed and have the car delivered to some local Tech School to be used in their auto shop.

 

That is very interesting indeed. Can you tell more about chip you run and how you substitute sensors inputs? Quite interesting to see this done on 911 car, it is really not typical.

 

I can't say who programmed the chip since turning off the emission controls is illegal in the States.

 

Well, I do not care who specifically did it, I wonder about the concept. It is still stock ECU reprogrammed or piggyback module on top of it supplying stock ECU with faked inputs? Or combination of both?

I know about such systems for hondas and supras but did not see yet one for 911 cars so I simply curious about how it gets done.