is there any cheaper place to get brake pads?
I was under impression that any race pads generally have a bit less braking power but do tolerate high temperatures much better and do not start to 'float' when rotors get extremely hot, so, for regular normal driving conditions with no extremes stock pads provide more efficient braking.
With Pagid RS29 pads for track use I find front rotors are severely cracked and ready to change when the pads are down to about the thickness of the backing plate, so I change both pads and rotors at the same time (like your BMW experience). With street pads and street use, I find rotors go a couple sets of pads.
Last edited by utkinpol; Oct 29, 2009 at 07:38 AM.
Generally, street pads work well at lower temperatures so have good grip 1st time you step on the brake after getting in the car, but when used extensively they get hot and tend to fade and wear qickly. Track pads are designed to work better at the higher temperatures generated by frequent, aggressive braking on the track - many don't work so well cold and are noisy, especially when cold. When using track pads you need to be prepared for less braking power until you warm them up - but they are much more effective once warmed up by some applications of the brake and last longer. Pagid yellows are "endurance pads" designed for longer life and less rotor wear but that is relative to "sprint pads" not street pads. I find I get roughly 20-22 track hours from front pads and rotors when using Pagid yellows - sprint pads may last 1/3 to 1/2 of that and also eat your rotors faster.
If you are just street driving, stick to street pads - better braking at lower street braking temperatures and much less noise - track pads squeek and squeal at street braking temperatures.
If you are just street driving, stick to street pads - better braking at lower street braking temperatures and much less noise - track pads squeek and squeal at street braking temperatures.
Last edited by obsessed; Oct 29, 2009 at 07:45 AM.
During track season, I normally also swap them in and out, but if I have multiple events over a couple weeks, I just leave the Pagid yellows on the car. On street they are noisy and you have to be careful until they warm up, they don't stop as well cold. I hit the brakes a few times leaving the driveway and in the 1st few minutes of driving to warm them up and that helps around town. If you jump on a highway and drive for a while, you need to be cautious and brake a bit early for an exit as they will have cooled down - not a big deal if you expect it.
I run yellows all the time. I'm too lazy to swap them. I think they stop just fine, hot or cold. They do squeal a bit, but not consistently and not to the point where it really bothers me. They seem to be made of kryponite as well
I've done several track days since switching to yellows and they still look brand new, whereas I've previously burned through almost an entire set of stock pads in one day at the track. My old rotors are starting to not look as good at this point though... Not the pads fault though, they've just been on the car for 35K miles. I'll probably try to get a couple more DE's out of them and swap them out.
I use OEM rotors. If I see/feel a lip on them I will change them out. The thickness of the rotor will determine the ability of the rotor to dissipate heat properly. To thin of a rotor and the heat won't dissipate as well. In the big picture, a set of rotors are not that much money, and I run by the better to be safe then sorry motto.
During track season, I normally also swap them in and out, but if I have multiple events over a couple weeks, I just leave the Pagid yellows on the car. On street they are noisy and you have to be careful until they warm up, they don't stop as well cold. I hit the brakes a few times leaving the driveway and in the 1st few minutes of driving to warm them up and that helps around town. If you jump on a highway and drive for a while, you need to be cautious and brake a bit early for an exit as they will have cooled down - not a big deal if you expect it.
I use OEM rotors. If I see/feel a lip on them I will change them out. The thickness of the rotor will determine the ability of the rotor to dissipate heat properly. To thin of a rotor and the heat won't dissipate as well. In the big picture, a set of rotors are not that much money, and I run by the better to be safe then sorry motto.
Ok, a no one answered question, let me to rephrase it - are 997 rotors equal to 996 rotors in thickness?
Night and day on the track though. Fade free, hard core stopping through the entire session.
I haven't noticed a difference between the yellows and the stock pads on the street. Other than sounding like a school bus from time to time. They stop just fine, hot or cold.
Night and day on the track though. Fade free, hard core stopping through the entire session.
Night and day on the track though. Fade free, hard core stopping through the entire session.
well, I have about of 3/4 mm lip perhaps on the edge of rotor but IMHO it is perfectly fine. you are right about heat dissipation but it makes more practical meaning for track use, for my purposes it would be an overkill to swap rotors at first glance of some lip at the edge.
Ok, a no one answered question, let me to rephrase it - are 997 rotors equal to 996 rotors in thickness?
Ok, a no one answered question, let me to rephrase it - are 997 rotors equal to 996 rotors in thickness?
I think the best way to answer the comparison question would be to contact Suncoast, they could tell you. I would imagine that they are, Porsche has reused many parts from the 996 for the 997.
I usually pop the bonnet between session to allow some cooling. It's a beast on the straights as I'm usually running down stock turbos no problem.
I have around 20K plus miles on there supercharged and 35K total. It gets hot at the track. The temp gauge doesn't move but the engine bay sure is hot.
I usually pop the bonnet between session to allow some cooling. It's a beast on the straights as I'm usually running down stock turbos no problem.
I usually pop the bonnet between session to allow some cooling. It's a beast on the straights as I'm usually running down stock turbos no problem.
I am not sure about this yet, it seems like a bargain to put turbo or SC on current car, from other side I do not want to end up buying new engine just because I will fry current one to death.
I just have a feeling going down FI route it is necessary to do something with decklid - put a second fan there may be that runs non-stop or alter stock one somehow, or may be put different decklid altogether.
I noticed that nobody has mentioned that they cut they're rotors durring pad changes. Clean up cuts take very little off the rotors and allow the pads to bed to a proper surface. Does anyone do this?
I do not have a lathe in my garage...



