Just got a wheel alignment
Thanks for posting Michael, but now I'm more confused then ever about what a supposed 'performance' alignment is for a stock C2S. Could you please clarify these specs, per my questions in red below:
FRONT
camber before -.2 after -.09 <-- PLEASE tell me you meant -0.9 after, NOT -.09 !!
(-.09 is almost NO camber in the front of course, which surely would not help turn-in feel or understeer on any 911.)
camber before -.2 after -.09 <-- PLEASE tell me you meant -0.9 after, NOT -.09 !!
(-.09 is almost NO camber in the front of course, which surely would not help turn-in feel or understeer on any 911.)
toe before 0.09 after 0.07 <-- is this a "per wheel" toe measurement, or Total Toe per axle?
-- Is it TOE-IN or TOE-OUT?
-- Did it change FROM toe-IN before to toe-OUT after, the other way around, or just change ever so slightly as shown?
(a .02-inch change is NOT going to be noticeable to the driver, and is barely within adjustability & the tolerances of typical alignment systems).
-- Is it TOE-IN or TOE-OUT?
-- Did it change FROM toe-IN before to toe-OUT after, the other way around, or just change ever so slightly as shown?
(a .02-inch change is NOT going to be noticeable to the driver, and is barely within adjustability & the tolerances of typical alignment systems).
REAR
toe before 0.20 after 0.17 <-- Same questions as above... is it Total toe per axle or per wheel?
-- Is that Toe-IN or Toe-OUT after?
toe before 0.20 after 0.17 <-- Same questions as above... is it Total toe per axle or per wheel?
-- Is that Toe-IN or Toe-OUT after?
I appreciate the info...
.
Thanks for posting Michael, but now I'm more confused then ever about what a supposed 'performance' alignment is for a stock C2S. Could you please clarify these specs, per my questions in red below:
FRONT
camber before -.2 after -.09 <-- PLEASE tell me you meant -0.9 after, NOT -.09 !!
(-.09 is almost NO camber in the front of course, which surely would not help turn-in feel or understeer on any 911.)
camber before -.2 after -.09 <-- PLEASE tell me you meant -0.9 after, NOT -.09 !!
(-.09 is almost NO camber in the front of course, which surely would not help turn-in feel or understeer on any 911.)
toe before 0.09 after 0.07 <-- is this a "per wheel" toe measurement, or Total Toe per axle?
-- Is it TOE-IN or TOE-OUT?
-- Did it change FROM toe-IN before to toe-OUT after, the other way around, or just change ever so slightly as shown?
(a .02-inch change is NOT going to be noticeable to the driver, and is barely within adjustability & the tolerances of typical alignment systems).
-- Is it TOE-IN or TOE-OUT?
-- Did it change FROM toe-IN before to toe-OUT after, the other way around, or just change ever so slightly as shown?
(a .02-inch change is NOT going to be noticeable to the driver, and is barely within adjustability & the tolerances of typical alignment systems).
REAR
toe before 0.20 after 0.17 <-- Same questions as above... is it Total toe per axle or per wheel?
-- Is that Toe-IN or Toe-OUT after?
toe before 0.20 after 0.17 <-- Same questions as above... is it Total toe per axle or per wheel?
-- Is that Toe-IN or Toe-OUT after?
I appreciate the info...
.
Umm they're different. Not in a bad way, just in a characteristics way.I've had them on for about 2 weeks now. The most immediate point I noticed was that they are extreamly quiet. They are great in the rain, and at the public free, police free industrial park where we mess around at on the weekends, they corner very well right out of the box. It was 45 degrees when we first went over there and i have a 15 min drive on slow streets to get there. Not much heat in the tire and on the faster areas,they were great. I'll let you know when I'm 1k into the tires if I still like them.
Umm they're different. Not in a bad way, just in a characteristics way.I've had them on for about 2 weeks now. The most immediate point I noticed was that they are extreamly quiet. They are great in the rain, and at the public free, police free industrial park where we mess around at on the weekends, they corner very well right out of the box. It was 45 degrees when we first went over there and i have a 15 min drive on slow streets to get there. Not much heat in the tire and on the faster areas,they were great. I'll let you know when I'm 1k into the tires if I still like them.
Thanks; yes, please do the 1000 mile follow-up.
OK there is some mis-information going on here.
1st- negitive camber can make the inside of your tires wear faster....but....massive amounts of toe is what scrubs and wears tires a lot more than camber
2nd- you do not want more than .5 degrees of difference between front and rear camber settings
Here is a good all around street/track setting for stock 2005-09 PASM cars. (*note Sport PASM on 09 cars will allow for more front negitive camber)
FRONT
-1 camber PER SIDE
.02..no more than .04 te PER SIDE
Caster on these car can not be adjusted
REAR
-1.4 to 1.5 PER SIDE(...note keep front and rear camber with in .5 or less degrees)
.12 to .14max toe PER SIDE
Any more toe than what I listed will EAT the tires. I ran these settings for years on the street and get over 15,000 miles from my rears. My fronts did not wear all that much. These settings also work for the track with Toyo R888's with OK wear but depend on the track you drive and your skill level.
1st- negitive camber can make the inside of your tires wear faster....but....massive amounts of toe is what scrubs and wears tires a lot more than camber
2nd- you do not want more than .5 degrees of difference between front and rear camber settings
Here is a good all around street/track setting for stock 2005-09 PASM cars. (*note Sport PASM on 09 cars will allow for more front negitive camber)
FRONT
-1 camber PER SIDE
.02..no more than .04 te PER SIDE
Caster on these car can not be adjusted
REAR
-1.4 to 1.5 PER SIDE(...note keep front and rear camber with in .5 or less degrees)
.12 to .14max toe PER SIDE
Any more toe than what I listed will EAT the tires. I ran these settings for years on the street and get over 15,000 miles from my rears. My fronts did not wear all that much. These settings also work for the track with Toyo R888's with OK wear but depend on the track you drive and your skill level.
Now if you go from 0.5 to 7.0 degrees negative, we are talking about something else.
However, if you take toe from Zero to say 1/8" on that wheel, now you've created a huge wear situation, and this will surface on the inside edge since you have the wheel leaning in 1.5 degrees.
As to the original post' alignment, I can see how adding that toe out in the back changed the car quite a bit. I'm curious how common rear toe out in the 997 is?
OK there is some mis-information going on here.
1st- negitive camber can make the inside of your tires wear faster....but....massive amounts of toe is what scrubs and wears tires a lot more than camber
2nd- you do not want more than .5 degrees of difference between front and rear camber settings
Here is a good all around street/track setting for stock 2005-09 PASM cars. (*note Sport PASM on 09 cars will allow for more front negitive camber)
FRONT
-1 camber PER SIDE
.02..no more than .04 te PER SIDE
Caster on these car can not be adjusted
REAR
-1.4 to 1.5 PER SIDE(...note keep front and rear camber with in .5 or less degrees)
.12 to .14max toe PER SIDE
Any more toe than what I listed will EAT the tires. I ran these settings for years on the street and get over 15,000 miles from my rears. My fronts did not wear all that much. These settings also work for the track with Toyo R888's with OK wear but depend on the track you drive and your skill level.
1st- negitive camber can make the inside of your tires wear faster....but....massive amounts of toe is what scrubs and wears tires a lot more than camber
2nd- you do not want more than .5 degrees of difference between front and rear camber settings
Here is a good all around street/track setting for stock 2005-09 PASM cars. (*note Sport PASM on 09 cars will allow for more front negitive camber)
FRONT
-1 camber PER SIDE
.02..no more than .04 te PER SIDE
Caster on these car can not be adjusted
REAR
-1.4 to 1.5 PER SIDE(...note keep front and rear camber with in .5 or less degrees)
.12 to .14max toe PER SIDE
Any more toe than what I listed will EAT the tires. I ran these settings for years on the street and get over 15,000 miles from my rears. My fronts did not wear all that much. These settings also work for the track with Toyo R888's with OK wear but depend on the track you drive and your skill level.
I want to put a huge 2nd on this. The misconception (and it makes sense) that tilting the top of the wheel inboard (negative camber) from 0.5 to 1.5 degrees seems like a drastic change, at Zero toe on that wheel, the change in tire wear will be minimal.
Now if you go from 0.5 to 7.0 degrees negative, we are talking about something else.
However, if you take toe from Zero to say 1/8" on that wheel, now you've created a huge wear situation, and this will surface on the inside edge since you have the wheel leaning in 1.5 degrees.
As to the original post' alignment, I can see how adding that toe out in the back changed the car quite a bit. I'm curious how common rear toe out in the 997 is?
Now if you go from 0.5 to 7.0 degrees negative, we are talking about something else.
However, if you take toe from Zero to say 1/8" on that wheel, now you've created a huge wear situation, and this will surface on the inside edge since you have the wheel leaning in 1.5 degrees.
As to the original post' alignment, I can see how adding that toe out in the back changed the car quite a bit. I'm curious how common rear toe out in the 997 is?
In our Out? I've not seen many factory alignment specs that call for toe out.
This is not true, or at least not always true. In most cases on a modern alignment, Toe-Out is represented as a negative number, not a positive one. I asked because it seemed uncommon, but given the tech's autox experience, likely was used to more aggressive alignments.
Do a search, or use tirerack's explanation on toe:
"Toe is expressed in either degrees or fractions-of-an-inch, and an axle is said to have positive toe-in when imaginary lines running through the centerlines of the tires intersect in front of the vehicle and have negative toe-out when they diverge."
If you are certain it's positive, I think you're running rear toe in, which is more common. That said, still can't find a factory non GT3 alignment specification. Here is the GT3 spec though:
Front Left/Right Specified Range
-1.42d -1.25d Camber
7.50d 8.50d Caster
0d00' 0d05m Toe
-0.17d 0.17d Cross Camber
-0.67d 0.67d Cross Caster
0d05' 0d10' Total Toe
Rear Left/Right Specified Range
-2.08d -1.92d Camber
0d10' 0d15' Toe
-0.17d 0.17d Cross Camber
0d20' 0d25' Total Toe
-0.08d 0.08d Thrust Angle
I believe based on this though and common practice that your positive toe settings are Toe-In.
Do a search, or use tirerack's explanation on toe:
"Toe is expressed in either degrees or fractions-of-an-inch, and an axle is said to have positive toe-in when imaginary lines running through the centerlines of the tires intersect in front of the vehicle and have negative toe-out when they diverge."
If you are certain it's positive, I think you're running rear toe in, which is more common. That said, still can't find a factory non GT3 alignment specification. Here is the GT3 spec though:
Front Left/Right Specified Range
-1.42d -1.25d Camber
7.50d 8.50d Caster
0d00' 0d05m Toe
-0.17d 0.17d Cross Camber
-0.67d 0.67d Cross Caster
0d05' 0d10' Total Toe
Rear Left/Right Specified Range
-2.08d -1.92d Camber
0d10' 0d15' Toe
-0.17d 0.17d Cross Camber
0d20' 0d25' Total Toe
-0.08d 0.08d Thrust Angle
I believe based on this though and common practice that your positive toe settings are Toe-In.
I spoke to a guy with gt3 rs at auto-x and he told me he runs -2.7 camber in front with -2.3 camber on rear, 0 toe in front and 0.03 positive toe in rear.
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