www.torqwrench.com

They make them for Snap-on. Call them and discuss what you need. I have one and I am very happy with it.

 

Craftsman = Best imbo

 

1234

 

I did A LOT of research on this. I am also an inspector for nuclear power plants, which requires a firm background in the quality assurance area. The rule we use for torque wrenches to ensure full scale linear accuracy, is that the torque value should fall between 20-90% of the scale. That ensures linear accuracy. Of course the torque wrench should be calibrated -- most come calibrated to some certain accuracy. And then it would need to be verified if the reading is in doubt, if the wrench was dropped or over-ranged.

After all the research, using consumer reports and other postings, I found that Northern Tool had a digital torque wrench that was one of the best available. accurate to +/-2ft.lbs at maximum error. I bought the 3/8" because it is easier to use for small fasteners such as the oil filter housing (which has a torque of something like 19 ft-lbs - Yes, I know a bunch of people will jump on this if it is the wrong value, but I look it up and have only changed my oil once).

You can definitely use adapters either was from 3/8 to 1/2 or 1/2 to 3/8. Also, I would feel comfortable taking a 100 ft. lbs. torque wrench to 96 ft. lbs. That reading would be much more accurate than trying to use a 20-250 ft. lbs wrench on a 20 ft. lbs fastener.

Long story short:
1. I would recommend buying a digital torque wrench.

2. I like the ones from Northern Tool due to the reviews and the price compared to Snap-On. Snap-On makes great tools though.

3. Craftsman digital torque wrenches do not have a life time warranty.

4. And, I would choose the 3/8" drive with a scale of 0-100 ft. lbs.

That's my opinion.

 

After reading your post, I was prepared to blast you, on the assumption that because of your background you were recommending some overpriced tool for DIY projects like oil changes and wheel swapping. But then I looked at the Northern Tool website and the torque wrench you described is only $99. I'm still happy with my $40 model, but if I have problems with it I'll look at replacing it with the Northern Tools model. Rep points given!

 

^ Thanks. I should have mentioned the price.

I am sometimes hesitant to post my opinions because opinions here are highly scrutinized.

Again thanks.

 

Snap on Techwrench hands down. I went through numerous Craftsman "digitorque" wrenches, which are nothing other than a glorified clicker wrench before buying my last torque wrench, a snap on. The craftsmans were real good at lasting 13 months...1 month longer than they're warranty and then falling apart. I've had my snap on for 7 years now without a glitch. I even checked its calibration at work recently and its still within spec. It even came with a calibration certificate when i bought it. There really is no comparison, it beeps and vibrates when you hit your torque, converts inch pounds, newton meters, and foot pounds, and you never have to back it off when you're done using it. You can get them new for $200ish on ebay and they even have a model now that does degrees too, which would be really handy. And speaking of northern tool, I used to have a northern tool 3/8" torque wrench and I threw it in the trash after I improperly torqued the cam girdles on one of of my dirt bikes engines and trashed the engine. It was way out of calibration and was only a few months old. Think about how expensive of stuff a crappy torque wrench can mess up. Thats my opinion when it comes to tools.

 

Several models of Snap-On Techwrenches.....assume you are refering to the the digital ones?

 

To my knowledge the Techwrench is their standard digital torque wrench and the Techangle is their digital with angle. They also have models with memory now but they're pretty pricey. Go check em out on the snap on website. In a dream world all of my tools would be snap on but I can't afford to drop 10 grand to fill up a tool box.

 

I agree with your opinion, but also believe the tool should suit the application. Call me crazy but I don't think you need a $200 torque wrench if all you plan to use it for is to tighten lug bolts, oil drain plugs, and oil filters, which is kinda how this thread started. If money is no object or you're working on engines (dirt bike or otherwise) it's an entirely different situation with different requirements. Thanks for the feedback about Snap On.

 

Your oil drain, in most cases, is "working on engines" - and doing a thread insert because you stripped the threads out is not what I'd want to be doing, but -shrugs-

MB

 

Keep in mind that the size of the drive (3/8' or 1/2") will usually determine the length of the bar. I come from a background in automotive, and I would NOT suggest the 3/8" drive for lugbolts/nuts. You want the 1/2" dr. Torque Wrench for that (with a longer bar). With the extra leverage it offers, also comes with a bit more control than the shorter bar; the latter which is better for lower-torque values, IMHO, than what you will be using for your lugs.

As far as brand YES, you want to spend a decent amt on this as you are literally trusting your life (and the lives of others) to this tool. Nobody owning a Porsche should be complaining about spending $100-$200 on a quality tool for their car. IMHO.

I had two SnapOn Split-Beam torque wrenches- 3/8" & 1/2" (you flipped open the spring-loaded keeper, dialed your setting, then flipped shut the keeper) and in 15 years they continually stayed in-spec. They never needed re-calibration.

I have had zero experience with Northern Tool's products, but they are worth looking into.

I would stay away from the Craftsman Torque Wrenches.

"Buy right the first time. Buy wrong, and in the end it will be more expensive than.... buying right the first time!"

 

Well then I think everyone should buy this $150 tire gauge for their DD, because you don't want to over-inflate your tires and have a blowout. Operators are standing by!

http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-89562-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B000CON4S4

I'll let you doomsayers know if I strip my threads (or if my wheels fall off my car) because of inaccurate readings from my relatively inexpensive TW. The funny thing is the OP bought a cheaper one than mine!

 

When it comes to pricing TW's, there are 3 main things that come into play, like any other tool, as far as pricing:

1. materials= Durability & longevity (they go together)
2. Accuracy (when applicable) (which means, materials)
3. Fit n Finish overall

As has been already pointed-out here, yes you can buy more 'inexpensive' solutions. But they are throw-away solutions, as also pointed-out here. 13 mos on a $40 TW before it hits the trash bin adds up to $360 for 9yrs, 10 mos of use.

I'll take the quality $250 unit, that will last me decades, everytime. YMMV.

It's kinda like the argument "should I buy a $40 helmet, or a $200 helmet?" You figure out how much protecting your head is worth to you.

Something I learned a long time ago- every time I tried to cut corners for the sake of expenditure, I ended up paying more in the long run, than buying right the first time.

Like I said earlier:

"Buy right the first time. Buy wrong, and in the end it will be more expensive than buying right the first time."

But if one wants to spend more $$ over a given period of time and get less value for it, feel free to do so.

 

Right on brother!

I laugh when I see people spend big bucks, for me anyway, on their car and then trust in cheap tools to keep it maintained.

Price is what you pay, value is what you get!