great post! I attempted this for the first time last night and noticed that the motive power bleeder (black) would lose a little pressure over time without any activity.
I'd pump it to 10psi, then after 1 minute, it would lose about 1 psi. I made sure to put some plumbers tape on the connection from the pump to the hose.

Is this normal or does that mean there's a leak? I didn't notice any fluid leaking anywhere...

Also, I noticed that that tube was a lot longer than the ones pictures above, about a good 3+ feet, so the fluid had to travel plenty to make it into the brake fluid reservoir.

Thanks in advance!

 

I wouldn t worry about the 1 psi loss... I make sure it s re pumped each time I move to a different fitting. I d say it s normal if you have no leaks.
Don t know what to say about the hose length. Pretty simple once you do it once.

 

thank you for the great post and photos.

 

Is it true that you nees PIWIS to do a proper bleed on PSM equipped carreras?

 

Technically, yes. This is what is described in the workshop manual. You'll need PIWIS or Durametric to do it.

However, unless you do a master swap, replaced anything related to ABS or PSM, or had a brake line open to air (i.e. change brake lines) - then you can just bleed as described above.

 

Planing on doing this next weekend - thanks for posting.

 

Brother you got the car on stands or a lift does this not affect the bleeding process? I recall specially for the rear brakes that there is a level sensor that limits rearbraking when the back lifts off the ground, as they do on braking. Did it not make bleeding the rear brakes more time consuming?

 

I used two floor jacks (one each side ) and then two small jack stands just for safety as a backup. Only took the rear up a few inches with no issues. Good question but I will assume with the car off it may not be activated anyway.

 

The brake bleeder cups and fittings, hoses are made by Lisle and can be purchased from Amazon.com. They have several brands I bought the Lisle and it has what you need. Not expensive.

 

Is there an estimated amount (milliliters) that you want to drain in each nipple? It's hard to distinguish if fluids are similar in color. Don't want to try the blue due to stain issues reported.

 

Look back at the first pics, a drain cup full (or close to it) for each nipple .....

 

I too use a power bleeder with a much the similar process however I do not even take the wheels off anymore, saving significant time.

Never had trouble accessing the bleeder valve through the wheel design of any of my cars (so far).

I can have the brakes bled in 10 minutes.

 

I have to try this! I wondered if its possible...

 

How about if the fluid level in the reservoir goes below min, causing air to get into the line? This happened to me, and I've run enough fluid through to get the line free of air but I'm not sure about the ABS/PSM stuff.

 

Part 'A' - If you use a small cup like the one in the OP's photo as the catch can you can mark it such that you shouldn't get air into your system. I open the brake reservoir cap and go ahead and fill the reservoir to the top. You then evacuate the reservoir using a turkey baster into your catch container to the level you are comfortable with. I go just below the low fluid mark. Now take a paint stick or marker and draw a line around the fluid level in your catch container, do this on level ground. You only have to do this part once. This is your visual for a max safe amount of fluid to remove.

Part 'B' - Next top off the reservoir with fresh fluid and only bleed to the line you just created on your catch container. When the brake fluid gets to the line dump the catch container and top off your reservoir. You need to top off to the same point each time. I fill mid way up the threaded neck for the cap. Don't get lazy on that last nipple.

The next flush all you have to do is open the reservoir suck out the old fluid and top it up as your starting point.

I got air in my system once. Since I have been using this simple visual aide I've never had a problem.