If you want to encourage oil usage and leakage, follow Porsche's "suggestion" for engine break in. If you want to burn NO oil, follow the proper breakin procedure and get rid of the 0W40 as soon as you can.

 

In the UK there is no advisory break in period. Our dealers encourage us to drive them how we want straight out the box apart from the obvious like no high revs when cold etc. In fact many say that if you don't use all the rev range during the first 1000 miles then the car will never achieve it's full performance potential ever.

 

They test the engine all the way to red line several times before it leaves the factory... so don't worry at all.

Break-in period is for almost everything but the engine. It's OK to take it to the red line, it won't hurt your engine at all. The problem is HOW you do it for the first 1000Km (600miles)... nice and smooth or brutaly rough!

You should go easy on gearbox, clutch and brakes for the first few hundred miles... but after 200 miles or so... step on it on a regular basis, and after 600 you're set to go

This is how I do it... not meaning RIGHT, but works for me like a charm!

 

Ditto. I'd let "my" friend have some guilt for a while, though...

 

All cars will burn some oil, but I agree that a proper break-in will cause it to burn less. I put 10,350 miles on a 997 and did NOT follow the break-in procedures. I now have 7,500 on my 997S Club Coupe and DID follow them. The new car definately burns less oil; oil still burns...

 

Not all cars burn oil, nor do all Porsche's burn oil. Only had one car out of several dozens that burned oil and that was an easy fix. Never had a Porsche that burned any. You can reduce or eliminate oil usage in probably 9 out of 10 modern engines by simply driving it the correct way and using the engine to brake with on a regular basis.

 

I agree - no harm done, but a swift kick in the junk is in order

 

Do you mean to say your exhaust tips are clean? What the HELL is "driving it correctly?" I think you have no clue...

 

So, you think the soot in the tailpipes is oil?

 

dumb question for ya...

when you refer to engine braking you mean downshifting to a lower gear (i.e. 3rd to 2nd) to get the revs up so the car is slowed down due to more engine friction?

 

One of the best ways to insure that the rings and cylinder walls maintain optimum contact, as designed, is to engine brake. This can be done, as you said, by downshifting or simply taking the engine up to near redline in any gear and then lifting your foot of the gas, letting the engine bring you back down to a slower speed. If you drive the car aggressively, using the full range of the gears, this practice is not necessary.
T

 

That's what every engine builder I know says

 

It is oil and burned fuel. Obviously, there is more burned fuel than oil.

If cars did not burn some oil, there would be no need for a dip stick. I suppose your cars do not have one (or the Porsche electronic reading)?

 

Sorry, but it is not oil, although burning oil will also contribute to soot. It is the hydrocarbons from the fuel that makes your tailpipe black and grey depending on temperature. If a car could run with the crankcase bone dry, you would still get soot in the tailpipes.

A car should never use ANY coolant either, so why is their a window in the filler bottle showing it's level? Not a good arguement on your part as to why ALL cars DO burn oil.

A car that burns less than 1/4 of a quart in 10,000 miles would be considered, in my book, as not burning oil.

 

Cars are pretested before they are sent out to the public. There isnt anymore breaking in period unless the car has a supercharger or turbo, but its not really a big issue these days.