Great thread on this matter of pre-pressurization when our cars have been sitting for several days or more: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ngine-oil.html

However, many variations. I tried the one for the DB9 on my car - a 2010 DBS - and did not work. The correct procedure for this car, though was found in the Owner’s Manual on page 11.51, under points 4.1 and 4.2: Hold the accelerator hard to the floor, fully press the brake and then insert the key and press to initiate the engine to crank until the oil pressure symbol light goes out. Then, release the key and accelerator pedal and start the car, as usual.

Tried it today and of course, it worked perfectly. Was a bit surprised, though how much cranking it took to make the oil pressure symbol light to go out. Out of caution, did two cycles of the procedure of 5 seconds each - as Mike from BR has suggested with other models - and those two cycles were enough to extinguish the oil pressure symbol light.

All practicalities while awaiting a warmer day here in NC, appropriate to exercise the DBS with the Pilot Sport 4S’s…

 

Do not forget, the oil pump is running very slow at cranking rpm (120rpm), whereas a started engine will immediately run at fast idle speed, around 10 times faster, making the pump pressurize far, far quicker.
So, do you crank a "dry" engine for a fair while whilst its gets pressure, or do you fire it up for (hopefully 1-2 secs) and a second later, it has pressure? I doubt there is a noticeable difference nowadays with the modern oils now "clinging on" to components, rather than draining down.
Of course the definitive answer is an oil accumulator/pressure system.

 

I've always felt exactly the same. This is one of those neat features these cars have but from a practical stand point, I think the advantages of the pre-lube process is very marginal.

These are hearty powertrains and the tech in modern oil, likely offers all the protection needed in dry start situations.