2006 DB9 Battery Replacement/Trunk Charger Port, etc.
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2006 DB9 Battery Replacement/Trunk Charger Port, etc.
I've had my '06 DB9 Volante for many years now...long enough, actually, to have just replaced the battery for the second time.
It was a stupid mistake on my part: I use a CTEK Multi US 7002 maintenance charger whenever the car is in my garage, knowing that a few weeks without using the car will not only result in a flat battery, but one that's dead beyond recovery. But at some point before Christmas, someone (probably me) must have tripped over the wire from the charger to the three-pin trunk port, disconnecting the cable at its mid-wire snap connector. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the disconnection and clicked it back together, hoping in vain that the battery would re-charge, (but knowing in my heart that it wouldn't).
The battery was thoroughly sufated, and neither the CTEK or my Schumacher charger could recover it, so I ordered a 1AutoDepot Group 49 AGM battery from Amazon for $169. It was a relatively easy install, although I'll admit that lifting the old battery out of its nest under the rear right passenger seat (US) and carefully lowering the new one into place is not something this 73-year old wants to do every day (it wasn't that bad, but I have to moan about something). The problem was that after I finished up the installation, the CTEK didn't respond when I plugged it back in.
I decided to ask Chat GPT, and it was very sympathetic. It suggested that I abandon the trunk port system and run a direct wire from the battery to somewhere conveniently accessible, but also said that I might have to lock the doors, take the key fob out of range, and wait a few minutes. Then it told me that a 5A fuse "in the right-hand side of the trunk" might be at fault. I did check the trunk fuse box (which is on the left side of my car), and checked each of the three 5A fuses in there, because that was easier than tracking down which was the actual fuse in question. All fuses were good, and the lock-the-car, move-the-fob thing didn't help. And I really didn't want to run a new connecting wire, just on principle,
Finally I remembered that there's a harness under the seat near the battery that has both a 60-amp and a 5-amp fuse holder. I opened the 5A holder, checked the fuse, found it blown, replaced it, plugged in the CTEK, and have resumed living happily ever after.
Moral of the story? When it comes to AI assistants, trust...but verify!
It was a stupid mistake on my part: I use a CTEK Multi US 7002 maintenance charger whenever the car is in my garage, knowing that a few weeks without using the car will not only result in a flat battery, but one that's dead beyond recovery. But at some point before Christmas, someone (probably me) must have tripped over the wire from the charger to the three-pin trunk port, disconnecting the cable at its mid-wire snap connector. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the disconnection and clicked it back together, hoping in vain that the battery would re-charge, (but knowing in my heart that it wouldn't).
The battery was thoroughly sufated, and neither the CTEK or my Schumacher charger could recover it, so I ordered a 1AutoDepot Group 49 AGM battery from Amazon for $169. It was a relatively easy install, although I'll admit that lifting the old battery out of its nest under the rear right passenger seat (US) and carefully lowering the new one into place is not something this 73-year old wants to do every day (it wasn't that bad, but I have to moan about something). The problem was that after I finished up the installation, the CTEK didn't respond when I plugged it back in.
I decided to ask Chat GPT, and it was very sympathetic. It suggested that I abandon the trunk port system and run a direct wire from the battery to somewhere conveniently accessible, but also said that I might have to lock the doors, take the key fob out of range, and wait a few minutes. Then it told me that a 5A fuse "in the right-hand side of the trunk" might be at fault. I did check the trunk fuse box (which is on the left side of my car), and checked each of the three 5A fuses in there, because that was easier than tracking down which was the actual fuse in question. All fuses were good, and the lock-the-car, move-the-fob thing didn't help. And I really didn't want to run a new connecting wire, just on principle,
Finally I remembered that there's a harness under the seat near the battery that has both a 60-amp and a 5-amp fuse holder. I opened the 5A holder, checked the fuse, found it blown, replaced it, plugged in the CTEK, and have resumed living happily ever after.
Moral of the story? When it comes to AI assistants, trust...but verify!
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 798
From: Lake Geneva, WI
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I've had my '06 DB9 Volante for many years now...long enough, actually, to have just replaced the battery for the second time.
It was a stupid mistake on my part: I use a CTEK Multi US 7002 maintenance charger whenever the car is in my garage, knowing that a few weeks without using the car will not only result in a flat battery, but one that's dead beyond recovery. But at some point before Christmas, someone (probably me) must have tripped over the wire from the charger to the three-pin trunk port, disconnecting the cable at its mid-wire snap connector. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the disconnection and clicked it back together, hoping in vain that the battery would re-charge, (but knowing in my heart that it wouldn't).
The battery was thoroughly sufated, and neither the CTEK or my Schumacher charger could recover it, so I ordered a 1AutoDepot Group 49 AGM battery from Amazon for $169. It was a relatively easy install, although I'll admit that lifting the old battery out of its nest under the rear right passenger seat (US) and carefully lowering the new one into place is not something this 73-year old wants to do every day (it wasn't that bad, but I have to moan about something). The problem was that after I finished up the installation, the CTEK didn't respond when I plugged it back in.
I decided to ask Chat GPT, and it was very sympathetic. It suggested that I abandon the trunk port system and run a direct wire from the battery to somewhere conveniently accessible, but also said that I might have to lock the doors, take the key fob out of range, and wait a few minutes. Then it told me that a 5A fuse "in the right-hand side of the trunk" might be at fault. I did check the trunk fuse box (which is on the left side of my car), and checked each of the three 5A fuses in there, because that was easier than tracking down which was the actual fuse in question. All fuses were good, and the lock-the-car, move-the-fob thing didn't help. And I really didn't want to run a new connecting wire, just on principle,
Finally I remembered that there's a harness under the seat near the battery that has both a 60-amp and a 5-amp fuse holder. I opened the 5A holder, checked the fuse, found it blown, replaced it, plugged in the CTEK, and have resumed living happily ever after.
Moral of the story? When it comes to AI assistants, trust...but verify!
It was a stupid mistake on my part: I use a CTEK Multi US 7002 maintenance charger whenever the car is in my garage, knowing that a few weeks without using the car will not only result in a flat battery, but one that's dead beyond recovery. But at some point before Christmas, someone (probably me) must have tripped over the wire from the charger to the three-pin trunk port, disconnecting the cable at its mid-wire snap connector. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the disconnection and clicked it back together, hoping in vain that the battery would re-charge, (but knowing in my heart that it wouldn't).
The battery was thoroughly sufated, and neither the CTEK or my Schumacher charger could recover it, so I ordered a 1AutoDepot Group 49 AGM battery from Amazon for $169. It was a relatively easy install, although I'll admit that lifting the old battery out of its nest under the rear right passenger seat (US) and carefully lowering the new one into place is not something this 73-year old wants to do every day (it wasn't that bad, but I have to moan about something). The problem was that after I finished up the installation, the CTEK didn't respond when I plugged it back in.
I decided to ask Chat GPT, and it was very sympathetic. It suggested that I abandon the trunk port system and run a direct wire from the battery to somewhere conveniently accessible, but also said that I might have to lock the doors, take the key fob out of range, and wait a few minutes. Then it told me that a 5A fuse "in the right-hand side of the trunk" might be at fault. I did check the trunk fuse box (which is on the left side of my car), and checked each of the three 5A fuses in there, because that was easier than tracking down which was the actual fuse in question. All fuses were good, and the lock-the-car, move-the-fob thing didn't help. And I really didn't want to run a new connecting wire, just on principle,
Finally I remembered that there's a harness under the seat near the battery that has both a 60-amp and a 5-amp fuse holder. I opened the 5A holder, checked the fuse, found it blown, replaced it, plugged in the CTEK, and have resumed living happily ever after.
Moral of the story? When it comes to AI assistants, trust...but verify!
Long story short, I chased a loose ground all the way to the point of removing the entire glove compartment in my Ferrari 599, when I fully believed all along I was looking in the wrong area. It's like making a wrong turn, following the damn GPS to the airport you've driven to a hundred times in your life! haha.
"Trust but verify" indeed..
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Joined: Oct 2012
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From: chicago
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Be careful of that trunk receptacle as it is very shallow and doesn’t fully capture the plug of the ctek. Just the slightest touch can cause it to pop out just enough to lose connection and then you get dead battery. Ask me how I know……..
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From: Florida
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I rewired this and also added a volt meter so I can monitor voltage before during and after charging
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