Hey everyone, got an ‘07 DB9 6 speed delivered the other day. Battery had gone dead on the trailer, long story short the key was left in the ignition. Shipper pulled the key and it came apart with male metal portion still in ignition, unknowingly left in. And now the transponder chip is missing of course too, but that’s another whole issue, Anyway, I jump the car with the spare key and park in the garage overnight. Charge the battery overnight, it’s now showing 13.3 volts. Start button backlit red, Try to start, just a faint clicking sound, no cranking at all. In my opinion not the type of clicking sound that I’m used to hearing when starter is trying to engage with a low battery (solenoid). So I attempt to jump the car in the garage. Same thing. Faint clicking. So I check engine fuse box, fuse 15 is intact (25 amp fuse). Now I’m lost. Trying to research what else it could be and coming up short. The starter is grounded to the block I’m assuming so I can eliminate a bad ground. A relay gone bad maybe? Anyone ever experience this or have any advice?

Thanks in advance

Matt

 

But the odd thing is not being able to jumpstart car from another vehicle which I had done literally 24 hours prior no problem. The battery was completely dead when I jumped it yesterday.
But today with a battery that I had charged, I’m unable to jump start the car.

 

When my battery was dying (a month or two ago) on my 2007 V8V I was getting 13.3 volts as well, an odd number. That was an Interstate AGM and under 2 years old. I would have that battery tested and also try pushing the battery disconnect/connect button in the trunk. It sounds strange but maybe during shipping the disconnect was pressed before it got to you. Worth exactly what it costs to try.

 

So you're getting the red light ready to start but no start ?

 

*Update. Battery was bench tested and is fine. The 13.3 volts was right after I pulled it off the charger. Settled out to 12.9 volts at testing. So it turns out my alternator is not grounded. Used alligator clips to attach the alternator directly to the chassis. Was able to start the car. So now I start the process of trying to find where the ground is bad…..

thanks

 

Awesome thanks I appreciate it

 

You will trace back the 12 lead through the subframe to under the rh side of the firewall. The engine is grounded by to the frame by a strip from the torque tube...

 

*Final update. Turned out to be a bad engine to chassis ground. The stud that the ground strap was attached to was corroded and rusty. Removed strap and reattached to a different part of the chassis. She fired right up.

 

Great job!

FWIW, there are a number of electronic grounds up the firewall on both sides of the engine. They are likely corroded as well. The low ones are easy to get to and take a lot of abuse from Mother Nature.