(I tried to do a search here, but the system just kept bringing up literally every thread on the whole board because of its common word filters)

I drove the car yesterday for about 25 miles, no problems, nothing out of the ordinary. Went to start it today and all I got was a nice, loud click. No attempt to turn the engine over. No errors, no CEL, nothing.

So I'm thinking it's either the battery or the starter. I tried it with the headlights on and nothing even dimmed while I was holding the button, so I don't think the battery is bad.

Has anyone experienced this issue before? Do any of you have a trickle charger I can borrow?

Thanks in advance.

 

A few more details:
-The engine start light goes red as normal with the key in position 2 and the clutch pushed in.
-System check normal. Car won't start whether I let it finish the check or not.
-I tried the spare key. Same issue.
-I tried locking it, waiting ten minutes, and attempting another start. No change.

 

How old is the battery? If it is more than three years old it doesn't owe you anything...

What voltage do you read before and during the time you push the start button? I bought a 8 dollar usb adapter that has a volt meter display to answer these questions every time I turn the key.

How good are the contacts at the battery, and the wiring to the starter? A little corrosion goes a long way to reducing the current capacity...

Your starter relay is trying but the starter doesnt have sufficient current to crank the motor. The solution will likely be found in the answers to the questions above.

Best
Larry

 

I have no idea how old it is, I bought the car 8 months ago. I'll have a look at the battery this afternoon. Was really hoping I wouldn't need to replace it so soon.

For good measure I checked fuse 15 in the engine bay, and fuses 81 and 86 in the cabin, all were good. While doing that, I accidentally pulled fuse 82 (passenger door control) and now the passenger window pops down when opening the door but won't go back up automatically. Fantastic. Another problem to fix.

 

Sorry for your troubles.

Based on symptoms, could it be the clutch position sensor?

Not super helpful now, but you should buy a Battery Tender Jr. for $30, just to have on hand in case.

 

You'll be okay and we'll figure it out. It takes about a year to understand these cars and their frustrating quirks, but you'll be a pro soon. You can fix your window issue most likely just by doing a simple window reset, though I don't recommend doing it just yet until you figure the battery out, unless the car is outside (water would get in the window). To do the reset, put the key in the ignition so you can control windows. Make sure the door is closed on the affected window. Press that window all the way down with the standard door controls and then hold for 5 seconds once it's reached the down position. Then, do the same pressing the window up and hold for 5 seconds. It should re-calibrate your windows. I'll attach the procedures here for you, as you may have seat problems as well, all indicative of battery power loss. Reason I wouldn't mess with it just yet though is because it'll further drain the battery and you'll have to re-do it anyway if you replace the battery

Regarding your battery, do just as AM said and use a multimeter to see your battery voltage at rest and post here. It's a good tool to have around the house for MANY things. We'll know quickly if you're low on juice. Also, do as RamVA said and since you own an Aston, you're naked without a battery tender, as ours cars just need them, basically. I recommend a CTek like that can charge both standard lead acid and AGM batteries. That way, if you change to an AGM battery as many do, you don't need to replace your expensive battery tender, as I did when I changed mine.

Order a battery tender now no matter what and you can try to desulfate your battery to recover its ability, or play it safe and replace the battery and then you should have another 3-5 years of trouble-free issue, especially if you use a battery tender going forward. I recommend AGM batteries for in-cabin safety and performance, but lead acid batteries will work as well.

 

Did you get stuck anywhere? As I recall, I am fairly near you.....

 

I doubt the clutch position sensor is bad, since the engine start light goes red when the clutch is depressed.

Thanks for the window calibration procedure, it worked.

I used my multimeter to check the battery voltage. 12.2V at rest, 11.8V with the start button pressed and held. Also, the manufacture date on the battery is March of 2019, so it's only 16 months old. And the leads on the posts look brand new, not a speck of corrosion.

There's got to be something else. The starter solenoid clicks but the starter itself doesn't even make an attempt to turn the flywheel.

I plugged in my bluetooth OBD reader and looked at some of the live data. It confirmed the voltage to the ECU was 12.22 at rest, 11.78 on start attempt.

I didn't see anything weird in any of the other parameters.

 

Thanks, but no, it's in my garage. Good to know that if I'm in a pinch I can call a DB9 bro, though.

 

I'm not in front of my car, but does the Vantage have a brake interlock? If the brake switch fails, it may inhibit starting (If I recall correctly, land rover does this).
Matt

 

Maybe I am wrong, but the voltage seems low. As I recall it is supposed to be around 13.8 - maybe that is lead-acid batteries. Possibly starter bad? The good thing is that the starter is readily available(and not too expensive). It is the same as a 2002-2004 Ford T-Bird. The trouble is that it is royal pain to get to. I wonder if you can check on the output side of the relay and see if you get voltage. While the relay clicks, the connection might be bad. When the relay clicks, do you see the lights dim like the starter is pulling power?

 

No, everything stays on and doesn't seem to dim at all, though I'd have to try starting it at night to be really sure.

 

If it doesn't dim, then starter not getting power (starter big amp draw). I would check relay and the output side of the relay connections. Or check ground to starter, and wiring to starter.

 

I was thinking the same thing. Checking the starter itself will have to wait a while until I can move the car to the center of my garage where I can put it up on stands. Good thing I was already planning on doing the 2-year service and brake pads this week.

 

Check your ground/s on the battery and starter for any corrosion. Driven through rain lately? I too have heard of the position sensors causing the similar issue. Checking the battery under load might help to know how good it really is. I'd charge your battery overnight and see if that makes a difference. I'd do my best to rule out a bad battery first. Good luck!