K&N Air filter for V8 Vantage
#46
Stuart: Are your filters washable/reusable? I can't find any reference in the many posts on the subject.
#47
The other thing to consider is that it is a pretty simple and inexpensive task to clean a MAF element, and something that I try to do regularly on my cars, along with the throttle body.
#49
Michael,
How much space is there diameter wise inside the filter box?
The K&N CM-4508 specs are here.
http://www.knfilters.ca/search/produ...x?Prod=CM-4508
I found another filter AEM 21-204DK
http://www.aemintakes.com/search/pro...?prod=21-204dk
with the same inside flange diameter 3.5.
The height is 5.25 (K&N is 5.5)
It has a very slight conical shape instead of the cylinder shape.
The top has a diameter of 5.125" but the base outside diameter is 6". (K&N is 5" cylinder)
When pulling in air the conical shape is more optimized for flow.
One benefit of AEM is that it is Dryflow, so no oil like the K&N to mess up the sensors. The material, fit and finish is no different than K&N. It is also still washable.
I believe AEM is associated to K&N someway or another.
Anyone who has tried the K&N notice if there was still a little bit of room to put in a 6" diameter vs. 5" diameter?
cheers
Saturn
How much space is there diameter wise inside the filter box?
The K&N CM-4508 specs are here.
http://www.knfilters.ca/search/produ...x?Prod=CM-4508
I found another filter AEM 21-204DK
http://www.aemintakes.com/search/pro...?prod=21-204dk
with the same inside flange diameter 3.5.
The height is 5.25 (K&N is 5.5)
It has a very slight conical shape instead of the cylinder shape.
The top has a diameter of 5.125" but the base outside diameter is 6". (K&N is 5" cylinder)
When pulling in air the conical shape is more optimized for flow.
One benefit of AEM is that it is Dryflow, so no oil like the K&N to mess up the sensors. The material, fit and finish is no different than K&N. It is also still washable.
I believe AEM is associated to K&N someway or another.
Anyone who has tried the K&N notice if there was still a little bit of room to put in a 6" diameter vs. 5" diameter?
cheers
Saturn
OK - first props for AM Tampa & Tom - he did some research on sizes. I just did the order and fun stuff. So the bottom line is yes we have a stock K & N filter available for the V8 Vantage - K&N still does not know it but they will soon catch up - so do not try and oder by your car reference, order by their part number. The K&N part number is CM-4508 and it replaces the AM air filter number 4G43-9601-A. Our cars take 2 of these - you can order off the internet, or the local auto shop (took mine 4 days to get delivered) or most likely your AM dealer can order. The stock filter is your basic old paper style (am holding one) and the K&N is their standard million mile cleanable unit - so we are actually adding some HP and going GREEN !!! And the better news is the Power Kit uses the stock AM filter so you can use the K&N too. I am still checking on the 4.7 V8 cars (2009 +) but I believe they use the same 4.3 air filter number. I will also check out the part number for the DB9 and DBS - hopefully it is all in the same family.
Installation:
1) Remove the stock filter boxes - remember there are 2, one each side of the radiator (hey this is not easy to get too, you have to go thru the belly pan under the car, ie. need to jack it up in the air or use a lift, so use the dealer or a trusted mechanic if this is too much for your home garage). I used my dealer and brought the stock air boxes home for my fun.
2) It takes a T-25 star tool and "socket wrench" to remove the 7 "screws" holding each filter box together. Once the screws are removed gently pry open the box so you then have 2 open halves. Remove the old filter and throw away. To install your new filter do not believe your eyes - it will fit and the filter box will close over it ! Take the K&N filter, remove the hose clamp they provide as you will NOT need it, then gently place the K&N filter over the intake hole the old filter came from. It seems like the opening is to small but use a screw-on motion, turning a few times and the K&N filter will slip on over the filter box sleeve. Do this screwing-on motion with pressure from the top down - very much like screwing a lid on a large jar when you do not want the liquid to come out. Do not strike or pound on the top on the K&N filter to force on - this only crushes the filter (voice of experience). Use the srewin-on motion - it works very well.
3) Make sure the K&N filter is seeded all the way down on the opening box sleeve. Then place the 2 halves of the filer box back together. Yes it looks like the 2 halves will not fit over the K&N but trust me, it will! Replace & re-screw the qty 7 T-25 star screws and you will see the filter housings do in fact snap and fit together nicely thus holding the K&N filter snugly in place (thus no hose clamp needed - you could not screw then on anyway).
4) Reinstall air boxes in car and enjoy driving.
5) Now start a debate about how many HP you picked-up. Better yet go hug a tree as you and future owners will no longer throw old filters it a land fill.
6) ADVANCED LESSON - Now I'll tell you about an old speed secret - when I removed the old stock filter I then used a hole drill bit (a kit you can buy at Lowes/Home Depot) that attaches to a standard drill. Makes clean holes 1/2 to 3 inces in dia. depending on the attachment you use. I drilled like 10 holes all over/thru my stck air box. What a feeling drilling holes in a well made AM part! Anyway so I do not bore you - more air to the filter the better - and yes still use the stock system too. As an example the Power Kit adds a small flap that opens at higher RPM - just like the DB9 (maybe same part #?) so I drilled holes where this flap is too but my point is get as much air to the K&N filter as you can to get the best result. This was a Porshce SuperCup trick on the 964 and all later models. So I am replacing my Power Kit box w/ my swiss cheese stock box and new K&N filter. You do not have to go w/ this extreme as a K&N will work great in stock box form too. I am just pushing the envelope a bit more.
Hope this helps ...
Installation:
1) Remove the stock filter boxes - remember there are 2, one each side of the radiator (hey this is not easy to get too, you have to go thru the belly pan under the car, ie. need to jack it up in the air or use a lift, so use the dealer or a trusted mechanic if this is too much for your home garage). I used my dealer and brought the stock air boxes home for my fun.
2) It takes a T-25 star tool and "socket wrench" to remove the 7 "screws" holding each filter box together. Once the screws are removed gently pry open the box so you then have 2 open halves. Remove the old filter and throw away. To install your new filter do not believe your eyes - it will fit and the filter box will close over it ! Take the K&N filter, remove the hose clamp they provide as you will NOT need it, then gently place the K&N filter over the intake hole the old filter came from. It seems like the opening is to small but use a screw-on motion, turning a few times and the K&N filter will slip on over the filter box sleeve. Do this screwing-on motion with pressure from the top down - very much like screwing a lid on a large jar when you do not want the liquid to come out. Do not strike or pound on the top on the K&N filter to force on - this only crushes the filter (voice of experience). Use the srewin-on motion - it works very well.
3) Make sure the K&N filter is seeded all the way down on the opening box sleeve. Then place the 2 halves of the filer box back together. Yes it looks like the 2 halves will not fit over the K&N but trust me, it will! Replace & re-screw the qty 7 T-25 star screws and you will see the filter housings do in fact snap and fit together nicely thus holding the K&N filter snugly in place (thus no hose clamp needed - you could not screw then on anyway).
4) Reinstall air boxes in car and enjoy driving.
5) Now start a debate about how many HP you picked-up. Better yet go hug a tree as you and future owners will no longer throw old filters it a land fill.
6) ADVANCED LESSON - Now I'll tell you about an old speed secret - when I removed the old stock filter I then used a hole drill bit (a kit you can buy at Lowes/Home Depot) that attaches to a standard drill. Makes clean holes 1/2 to 3 inces in dia. depending on the attachment you use. I drilled like 10 holes all over/thru my stck air box. What a feeling drilling holes in a well made AM part! Anyway so I do not bore you - more air to the filter the better - and yes still use the stock system too. As an example the Power Kit adds a small flap that opens at higher RPM - just like the DB9 (maybe same part #?) so I drilled holes where this flap is too but my point is get as much air to the K&N filter as you can to get the best result. This was a Porshce SuperCup trick on the 964 and all later models. So I am replacing my Power Kit box w/ my swiss cheese stock box and new K&N filter. You do not have to go w/ this extreme as a K&N will work great in stock box form too. I am just pushing the envelope a bit more.
Hope this helps ...
#50
Hey Saturn, I bought Michael's car a couple years ago.
At one point I had the K&N filters replaced with dry filters. There weren't any fitment issues, but I've always preferred dry filters over oiled filters.
It was too long ago for me to remember how much extra space was in the air boxes compared to the filter. I think I still have an extra set of air boxes, but I no longer have the filters. I'll take some measurements tomorrow to see how much space is in the air boxes.
At one point I had the K&N filters replaced with dry filters. There weren't any fitment issues, but I've always preferred dry filters over oiled filters.
It was too long ago for me to remember how much extra space was in the air boxes compared to the filter. I think I still have an extra set of air boxes, but I no longer have the filters. I'll take some measurements tomorrow to see how much space is in the air boxes.
#51
When you get a chance that would be great!
Thanks.
Thanks.
Hey Saturn, I bought Michael's car a couple years ago.
At one point I had the K&N filters replaced with dry filters. There weren't any fitment issues, but I've always preferred dry filters over oiled filters.
It was too long ago for me to remember how much extra space was in the air boxes compared to the filter. I think I still have an extra set of air boxes, but I no longer have the filters. I'll take some measurements tomorrow to see how much space is in the air boxes.
At one point I had the K&N filters replaced with dry filters. There weren't any fitment issues, but I've always preferred dry filters over oiled filters.
It was too long ago for me to remember how much extra space was in the air boxes compared to the filter. I think I still have an extra set of air boxes, but I no longer have the filters. I'll take some measurements tomorrow to see how much space is in the air boxes.
#52
The tallest the filter can be is 5.75". For width, 5".
Here is a pic with RSC's cylindrical "green" filter (I had forgotten that I had these). The end of the filter is touching the air box, so there's zero extra room beyond 5.75". The side of the air box prevents a radius of more than 2.5" (so a 5"-wide filter).
The air box in my pics is one of Michael's drilled air boxes that he discussed in his original post:
Here is a pic with RSC's cylindrical "green" filter (I had forgotten that I had these). The end of the filter is touching the air box, so there's zero extra room beyond 5.75". The side of the air box prevents a radius of more than 2.5" (so a 5"-wide filter).
The air box in my pics is one of Michael's drilled air boxes that he discussed in his original post:
6) ADVANCED LESSON - Now I'll tell you about an old speed secret - when I removed the old stock filter I then used a hole drill bit (a kit you can buy at Lowes/Home Depot) that attaches to a standard drill. Makes clean holes 1/2 to 3 inces in dia. depending on the attachment you use. I drilled like 10 holes all over/thru my stck air box. What a feeling drilling holes in a well made AM part! Anyway so I do not bore you - more air to the filter the better - and yes still use the stock system too. As an example the Power Kit adds a small flap that opens at higher RPM - just like the DB9 (maybe same part #?) so I drilled holes where this flap is too but my point is get as much air to the K&N filter as you can to get the best result. This was a Porshce SuperCup trick on the 964 and all later models. So I am replacing my Power Kit box w/ my swiss cheese stock box and new K&N filter. You do not have to go w/ this extreme as a K&N will work great in stock box form too. I am just pushing the envelope a bit more.
Last edited by telum01; 02-02-2014 at 08:10 AM.
#53
Why not use a conical filter directly secured onto the intake tube end where the airbox attaches and do away with the airbox all together? It seems that the filter would get all the air it needs and is just as protected by the fascia and lower tray/ fender liner as the "holy" airbox that is now just a hindrance to airflow when drilled. It seems to me that the intake hose/MAF meter piping is of sufficiently rigidity to hold a filter with a rubber flange of the appropriate diameter and worm/jubilee clamp securing it onto the piping. Anyone tried this before? If not, I may give it a go and report back. Anyone know the diameter of the MAF piping at the airbox fitting?
Art
Art
#54
Hydrolock
Good question. Answer, hydrolock. OE induction system air intake is higher than your proposal or the swiss cheese system illustrated. Its at the top center of the grille and includes 3 cleverly engineered one way water drains.
Hydrolock destroys engines.
A compromise to increase air flow (more ram air), is to open up the air intake tubing mouth at the grille center. Skillful cutting and file work makes the small original opening larger yet retains the air boxes, tubing and drains.
Hydrolock destroys engines.
A compromise to increase air flow (more ram air), is to open up the air intake tubing mouth at the grille center. Skillful cutting and file work makes the small original opening larger yet retains the air boxes, tubing and drains.
#55
Yep, what flinder said.
The air boxes are far too low and the chance of water getting sucked in is too much of a risk considering how much I drive the car. For a weekend sunny-day-only car, it shouldn't be much of an issue.
The air boxes are far too low and the chance of water getting sucked in is too much of a risk considering how much I drive the car. For a weekend sunny-day-only car, it shouldn't be much of an issue.
#56
I only drive the car when it is dry and if it does rain while driving, the fascia and fender liner will prevent massive amounts of water ingress. I will post up a DIY from my experience if anyone is interested in also doing a simple filter install without the airbox. Normal driving in dry weather and slight rain showers will not be a problem. Driving in a torrential downpour with just the filter element could spell disaster should you go through a deep puddle or pond! I assume there will be an increase in engine noise with just the filter elements attached with no airbox, but will report on my findings.
Art
Art
#57
Thank you. That helped a lot.
I have found this locally as RSC take too long to get to me or the other K&N filter was not available.
It should help with the 200 cell cats.
Ill be installing K&N RU-5114
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...d=1003284&rw=1
I'll report back if its another alternative fit.
I have found this locally as RSC take too long to get to me or the other K&N filter was not available.
It should help with the 200 cell cats.
Ill be installing K&N RU-5114
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...d=1003284&rw=1
I'll report back if its another alternative fit.
The tallest the filter can be is 5.75". For width, 5".
Here is a pic with RSC's cylindrical "green" filter (I had forgotten that I had these). The end of the filter is touching the air box, so there's zero extra room beyond 5.75". The side of the air box prevents a radius of more than 2.5" (so a 5"-wide filter).
The air box in my pics is one of Michael's drilled air boxes that he discussed in his original post:
Here is a pic with RSC's cylindrical "green" filter (I had forgotten that I had these). The end of the filter is touching the air box, so there's zero extra room beyond 5.75". The side of the air box prevents a radius of more than 2.5" (so a 5"-wide filter).
The air box in my pics is one of Michael's drilled air boxes that he discussed in his original post:
#58
I ordered the K&N CM 4508 filters as listed but found they are about 3/16 too long and the inside diameter is too tight. I did find when I took the air box lid off that the car had the RSC green filters. So instead of forcing the K&N's to fit I'll clean the RSC filters.
Does anyone know if the RSC filters need oil adding to them?
Dave
Does anyone know if the RSC filters need oil adding to them?
Dave
#59
I ordered the K&N CM 4508 filters as listed but found they are about 3/16 too long and the inside diameter is too tight. I did find when I took the air box lid off that the car had the RSC green filters. So instead of forcing the K&N's to fit I'll clean the RSC filters.
Does anyone know if the RSC filters need oil adding to them?
Dave
Does anyone know if the RSC filters need oil adding to them?
Dave
__________________
Stuart Dickinson
Managing Director
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
206 Maple Avenue
Oliver, BC
Canada V2A 4W6
Office: (1)250-485-5126
www.velocityap.com
Stuart Dickinson
Managing Director
Velocity Automotive Performance Limited
206 Maple Avenue
Oliver, BC
Canada V2A 4W6
Office: (1)250-485-5126
www.velocityap.com
#60
Stuart,
Thanks and I'll clean the RSC units and pick up some K&N oil tomorrow. I can make the K&N filters work if I cut the tube back to the base with a 45 degree cut (slips on but still snug) and clears the housing but the RSC units seem a better part.
Dave
Thanks and I'll clean the RSC units and pick up some K&N oil tomorrow. I can make the K&N filters work if I cut the tube back to the base with a 45 degree cut (slips on but still snug) and clears the housing but the RSC units seem a better part.
Dave