After reading all the threads about it I decided to just buy some and try them out. After measuring, the gap is the same in front and back but the back seems more pronounced, I guess because of the body lines. I decided to give the H&R TRAK+ spacers a go. I ordered 2 sets of the 23mm and 1 set of the 11mm ones. I figure 23 will obviously go on the back, but I'd like to see what each one looks like on the front. I'll take some pics when they come since there's been a lot of question about how much trimming of the bolts needs done, etc.

 

Cool, looking forward to hearing how it goes. Do these ones have studs built in or are you counting on being able to have enough turns on the existing studs passing through the spacer? The car selector on their site only offers DB9 and DBS as options for AM.

 

From the pics it looks as if the oem studs just pass through.
These are the directions for the 11mm:
Remove wheel bolts and wheel.
Place TRAK+® Spacer on hub of car (where the wheel was attached) making sure that the spacer is fully seated and flush with the hub.
Place wheel onto the spacer and carefully line up the wheel / spacer bolt holes and mounting hole.
Insert new longer H&R wheel bolts. Carefully hand turn bolts making sure that they spin in easily so as to not cross-thread.
Repeat step 4 with the remaining bolts.
With hand wrench, snug up the bolts in a star pattern.
Before fully tightening, spin the wheel and tire to check for any noise or interference.
Tighten the wheel bolts in a star pattern with a torque wrench set to wheel manufacturers specifications.

And the 23mm:
Remove wheel.
Place TRAK+® Wheel Spacer on hub of car making sure that the spacer is fully seated and flush with the hub.
Use supplied nuts to fasten spacer to original studs. Carefully hand turn nuts making sure that they spin in easily so as to not cross-thread.
Repeat step 3 with the remaining nuts.
With hand wrench, snug up the nuts in a star pattern.
Tighten nuts in a star pattern using torque wrench set to manufacturers specification.
Make sure original studs do not protrude past spacer, see note 8.
Place wheel onto the new studs and firmly seat against wheel spacer.
Fasten wheel with original nuts. Carefully hand turn nuts making sure that they spin in easily so as to not cross-thread.
Repeat step 9 with the remaining nuts.
With hand wrench, snug up the nuts in a star pattern.
Before fully tightening, spin the wheel and tire to check for any noise or interference.
Tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench set to wheel manufacturers specifications.

 

I assume these should also work on the vantage?

 

I have no idea, it lists them for the DB9 and DBS only. I'm sure Irish or Stuart could probably answer that.

 

doesnt the AM use wheel lugs vs. bolts thus needed longer studs to be installed on the rotor vs. longer bolts?

 

Yes, this is why I asked what I did (the specifics have been detailed in a couple threads that are readily searchable). It sounds to me like this will work based on the sizes and descriptions.

The tricky question for the front will be, do you have enough thread protruding through to safely attach the wheel? If not then you face the problem of having to remove the existing studs and replace (_not_ a trivial exercise to source the right part and well addressed by the RSC solution).

And for the back, will be lugs/nuts that secure the spacer to the hub protrude too far out for the wheel to be attached over it? They will have to fit within the recesses within the wheel (which vary in size/depth btw based on the OEM wheel, I noted differences bw the OEM 7 spoke wheels and the 10 spoke Sport Pack wheels I bought). If not then you may have to shorten the stock studs or source smaller nuts/lugs.

B1B, just want to thank you for taking the plunge on this potential solution and looking forward to hearing your experiences.

Polite suggestion for ++ rep points from the forum members to B1B.

 

When I had the rear spacers from RSC installed on my Vantage it was an expensive and complicated installation requiring the disassembly of the hubs. It's was not a simple bolt on job.

 

I doubt that the 11mm spacers will leave you with a safe amount of threads exposed—but I have to wonder why anyone would bother putting them on in the first place. I don't think anyone would notice such a minuscule increment. I would think it would be best to use the 23mm spacers on all four wheels.

I hope it works out. I would be tempted to this if so.

 

Yes, that's bc the RSC solution replaces the existing studs. The rears he describes are a bolt on solution where the spacer attaches to the existing studs and the spacer has additional integrated studs that are then used to attach the wheels.

The main potential issue is that the nuts/lugs that attach the spacer to the hub have to fit inside the milled 'pocket' inside the wheel that the studs would ordinarily pass through. The variables are the thickness of the spacer, the length of the existing stud and the size of the pocket in relation to the lugs/nuts.

If the spacers are not thick enough then the stock lugs extend too far and you have to grind them down (and obviously have nuts/lugs that fit properly in the pocket).

 

V8 has the same hubs, so does the V12V, should work on all of them.

 

I suspect that may be the case with the 11mm too but I think the 23 may actually be a bit much. The lower part of the rear bumper is much wider than the front rear well so it should accommodate the move fine, I think the front will look nice at top but lower down may stick out too much for my preferences. We'll see I guess

 

Nice, quality pieces it seems. Hopefully I'll hear back from the dealer regarding trading my car for the DBS today. If its a no go I'll be putting these on tomorrow I suspect.

 

would love to see that 23mm on the front! if you can take pics, that would help me narrow my decision on whether to buy new wheels or just spacers.