07 V8 Vantage coming back from the dead
#1
07-22-2012, 01:07 AM
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 46
Rep Power: 13 
07 V8 Vantage coming back from the dead
Looking for a little help from the experts here. I own a high line shop in Knoxville, TN, and we have several customers with Aston's coming in for regular service. I was able to aquire an 07 V8 Vantage a few months back with water damage for a VERY good price. The claim was in 2009, 8,000 miles ago, so it was obviously parked when the water came. My thought was that worst case we could pull out the interior and make a track day car out of it... Most importantly save it from it's impending demise.
Everything worked properly except the Nav screen, which I don't care about. It does have the SRS and traction control lights on all the time. I had a local shop that builds Barrett/Jackson quality cars make new carpets out of Wilton Wool, and removed the factory seats to install Cobra Misano Carbon seats, which were wrapped along with some of the dash parts in the correct blue and beige leather for an OE, correct look. There is even a video of the car up on YouTube under ScottieDTV - please remember I'm in Tennessee when you hear the guys talk...
The car is almost ready to drive and use for track days, but I have a little sorting to do. First off, does anyone know the true cost of an AMDS? I have the part number 4G43-43-10776, and I will poke around this week for pricing.
Second, power seats and seat airbags are obviuosly now gone. I have put simulators in (we build track cars all the time and have to do this), but the SRS light is still on, and I have heard the circuit can be reprogrammed for "track use" cars. We do this on Porsche and BMW's often.
Last, the radio has started to have a mind of it's own, turning on or off whenever, seems like the infotainment relay is acting up. It does not even have to have the key in to come on, and sometimes wont come on with ignition for a little while. Also, the cluster at times stays dark - everything except one or two idiot lights. When this happens, the start button does not illuminate, but everything else (except PDC) works and the car runs. Climate control always works properly. I'm not sure if something is pulling down the CAN-BUS or if there is a relay that powers that circuit sticking. Cycling the key can trigger the cluster back to life.
I am several hundred miles away from and AM dealer, so just getting body module fault codes read is an issue - and this is an opportunity to provide better service to AM customers in my state.
Sorry for the long first post, and if I have offended any purists. I am a serious enthusiast building a car for my own enjoyment.
Everything worked properly except the Nav screen, which I don't care about. It does have the SRS and traction control lights on all the time. I had a local shop that builds Barrett/Jackson quality cars make new carpets out of Wilton Wool, and removed the factory seats to install Cobra Misano Carbon seats, which were wrapped along with some of the dash parts in the correct blue and beige leather for an OE, correct look. There is even a video of the car up on YouTube under ScottieDTV - please remember I'm in Tennessee when you hear the guys talk...
The car is almost ready to drive and use for track days, but I have a little sorting to do. First off, does anyone know the true cost of an AMDS? I have the part number 4G43-43-10776, and I will poke around this week for pricing.
Second, power seats and seat airbags are obviuosly now gone. I have put simulators in (we build track cars all the time and have to do this), but the SRS light is still on, and I have heard the circuit can be reprogrammed for "track use" cars. We do this on Porsche and BMW's often.
Last, the radio has started to have a mind of it's own, turning on or off whenever, seems like the infotainment relay is acting up. It does not even have to have the key in to come on, and sometimes wont come on with ignition for a little while. Also, the cluster at times stays dark - everything except one or two idiot lights. When this happens, the start button does not illuminate, but everything else (except PDC) works and the car runs. Climate control always works properly. I'm not sure if something is pulling down the CAN-BUS or if there is a relay that powers that circuit sticking. Cycling the key can trigger the cluster back to life.
I am several hundred miles away from and AM dealer, so just getting body module fault codes read is an issue - and this is an opportunity to provide better service to AM customers in my state.
Sorry for the long first post, and if I have offended any purists. I am a serious enthusiast building a car for my own enjoyment.
#2
07-22-2012, 08:12 AM
Looking for a little help from the experts here. I own a high line shop in Knoxville, TN, and we have several customers with Aston's coming in for regular service. I was able to aquire an 07 V8 Vantage a few months back with water damage for a VERY good price. The claim was in 2009, 8,000 miles ago, so it was obviously parked when the water came. My thought was that worst case we could pull out the interior and make a track day car out of it... Most importantly save it from it's impending demise.
Everything worked properly except the Nav screen, which I don't care about. It does have the SRS and traction control lights on all the time. I had a local shop that builds Barrett/Jackson quality cars make new carpets out of Wilton Wool, and removed the factory seats to install Cobra Misano Carbon seats, which were wrapped along with some of the dash parts in the correct blue and beige leather for an OE, correct look. There is even a video of the car up on YouTube under ScottieDTV - please remember I'm in Tennessee when you hear the guys talk...
The car is almost ready to drive and use for track days, but I have a little sorting to do. First off, does anyone know the true cost of an AMDS? I have the part number 4G43-43-10776, and I will poke around this week for pricing.
Second, power seats and seat airbags are obviuosly now gone. I have put simulators in (we build track cars all the time and have to do this), but the SRS light is still on, and I have heard the circuit can be reprogrammed for "track use" cars. We do this on Porsche and BMW's often.
Last, the radio has started to have a mind of it's own, turning on or off whenever, seems like the infotainment relay is acting up. It does not even have to have the key in to come on, and sometimes wont come on with ignition for a little while. Also, the cluster at times stays dark - everything except one or two idiot lights. When this happens, the start button does not illuminate, but everything else (except PDC) works and the car runs. Climate control always works properly. I'm not sure if something is pulling down the CAN-BUS or if there is a relay that powers that circuit sticking. Cycling the key can trigger the cluster back to life.
I am several hundred miles away from and AM dealer, so just getting body module fault codes read is an issue - and this is an opportunity to provide better service to AM customers in my state.
Sorry for the long first post, and if I have offended any purists. I am a serious enthusiast building a car for my own enjoyment.
Everything worked properly except the Nav screen, which I don't care about. It does have the SRS and traction control lights on all the time. I had a local shop that builds Barrett/Jackson quality cars make new carpets out of Wilton Wool, and removed the factory seats to install Cobra Misano Carbon seats, which were wrapped along with some of the dash parts in the correct blue and beige leather for an OE, correct look. There is even a video of the car up on YouTube under ScottieDTV - please remember I'm in Tennessee when you hear the guys talk...
The car is almost ready to drive and use for track days, but I have a little sorting to do. First off, does anyone know the true cost of an AMDS? I have the part number 4G43-43-10776, and I will poke around this week for pricing.
Second, power seats and seat airbags are obviuosly now gone. I have put simulators in (we build track cars all the time and have to do this), but the SRS light is still on, and I have heard the circuit can be reprogrammed for "track use" cars. We do this on Porsche and BMW's often.
Last, the radio has started to have a mind of it's own, turning on or off whenever, seems like the infotainment relay is acting up. It does not even have to have the key in to come on, and sometimes wont come on with ignition for a little while. Also, the cluster at times stays dark - everything except one or two idiot lights. When this happens, the start button does not illuminate, but everything else (except PDC) works and the car runs. Climate control always works properly. I'm not sure if something is pulling down the CAN-BUS or if there is a relay that powers that circuit sticking. Cycling the key can trigger the cluster back to life.
I am several hundred miles away from and AM dealer, so just getting body module fault codes read is an issue - and this is an opportunity to provide better service to AM customers in my state.
Sorry for the long first post, and if I have offended any purists. I am a serious enthusiast building a car for my own enjoyment.
I have a file with everything switched off, we may be able to figure out getting it onto your car.
Last edited by Stuart Dickinson; 08-30-2012 at 08:42 AM.
#3
07-22-2012, 08:48 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: whereabouts unknown
Posts: 2,266
Rep Power: 118 
No offense as far as I'm concerned. As you say you're bringing a dead Aston back to life. Good luck with the project and post some pics when you're done.
Last edited by Racer_X; 07-22-2012 at 10:03 AM.
#7
07-22-2012, 12:59 PM
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 46
Rep Power: 13
Thanks. Some of the other builds I have done started flame wars in other forums over "purity", 6speed never has. I did this car very low key, as I am doing it for myself. Steve did a great job on the interior, there was nothing leather or fabric below waist level, or in the rear. He did a lot od stuff I did not even ask for, notice the aluminum sill plates are now wrapped. The throwout bearing and A/C clutch bearing were shot. I had a a local clutch builder build a new clutch for less than 10% of an AM one, and the A/C clutch was replaced.
I will be contacting you Stuart, I have already been considering your remap. Driving the car to you would not be an issue, it's not going to be a garage queen...
I will be contacting you Stuart, I have already been considering your remap. Driving the car to you would not be an issue, it's not going to be a garage queen...
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#8
07-22-2012, 08:50 PM
No offense taken. The video was fun, and entertaining 
good to see folks having an open mind to exotic and rare cars... And doing quality interior restorations, hopefully at a reasonable price with factory attention to detail and replication...keep us posted on your progress.
good to see folks having an open mind to exotic and rare cars... And doing quality interior restorations, hopefully at a reasonable price with factory attention to detail and replication...keep us posted on your progress.
#10
07-23-2012, 06:26 AM
Basic Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 2,978
Rep Power: 204
For 4G43-43-10776 mobile AMDS, your looking at $15,000-$25,000 all depending on dealer markup in that location.
When you said your infotainment goes down at times, and the ABS, TC..etc lights come on with a blank display screen(guessing the needles don't work either)..that's all on your CAN LS being pulled down. When the fault is present, start disconnecting CAN LS connectors at the amp, MMM..etc to find your faulty module, you can even measure your resistance through the diag port if you don't want to try this with the power on. If you do this with the power on, once the faulty one is disconnected, all the CAN LS will come back online
When you said your infotainment goes down at times, and the ABS, TC..etc lights come on with a blank display screen(guessing the needles don't work either)..that's all on your CAN LS being pulled down. When the fault is present, start disconnecting CAN LS connectors at the amp, MMM..etc to find your faulty module, you can even measure your resistance through the diag port if you don't want to try this with the power on. If you do this with the power on, once the faulty one is disconnected, all the CAN LS will come back online
#12
07-23-2012, 08:36 PM
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 46
Rep Power: 13
I thought it may be CAN issue, yes, the cluster is completely down, displays and all. Sometimes it will pop on. I have wiring diagrams, we just had a similer issue with a BMW Z4 that ended up being the SRS control unit. Thanks for the help!
BTW, this is the car...
http://jalopnik.com/5403384/
BTW, this is the car...
http://jalopnik.com/5403384/
#15
07-24-2012, 01:40 PM
Basic Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 2,978
Rep Power: 204
Usually with SPX you have to be a authorized service center to be sold there tools for that brand..I can't order for say a Harley Davidson which SPX USA supplies. Don't know if the UK has the same same rules, but if they sell to you, by all means go for it..you can however order it through any Aston dealership, with that new Bill passed they have no choice to sell it along with all there tech info posted.