i know astons gear box is pretty weak compare to other cars. but what is going on here with my car? only have 5800 km and i dont abuse the car, only some time step on the gas little harder to hear the exhust note.

i have the automatic gear box, and today i was drving around 60km/h at 6th gear, and when i steped on the gas trying to pass an other car , gear shifted from 6 to 3 and suddenly red warrning pops up, saying FAULT NO GEAR CHANGE POSSIBLE, glad there is no car behind me. i pulled over to the side of the road, and i restarted my car 3 times, frist 2 time the warrning still there and stucks on 3rd gear, and the 3rd time it went alway.

did this happen to anyone else ? and if the gearbox is broken will the warranty cover it ?

 

Yes, it sounds like something broke, either the clutch or the sport-shift hydraulics.

If that is the case it will be covered. Of course, they won't know if its a failure until they open it up, but at 5800km, it almost has to be.

 

I had the same problem with my 2012 DBS once as well as numerous issues with the gearbox failing to go into park after pressing the P button. All of these issues we resolved with a software updated which was covered under warranty. The mechanic stated that is was a communication error of some sort.

 

DBS and V8V boxes are two different animals
DBS is a "true" auto with torque convertor
V8V is a robotised manual and as such it is important you do the clutch learns
I'd also advise not reversing up hill or using creep mode
There does seem to have been a spate of hydraulic failures on V8V recently

 

what is creep mode =O ?

 

On ASM1 if you take your foot of both pedals with the car in D or R it will "creep" along
It does this by continually finding the bite point of the clutch (and wearing it ) doing this in R uphill is BAD

 

Looks like a trip to Grand Touring...they can actually check the clutch bit wear, if your over the 1600bit count, new clutch is needed..if your car is driving fine right now, I would be putting my money on a clutch. Mileage is kind of low but I've seen them fail at 2,000km..

It sounds like the clutch stuck when you shifted which kept the RPM of the torque shaft spinning high and matched to the engine RPM..with clutch demanded open and matched RPM of flywheel to torque shaft, the transmission will not change gears for it sees the clutch stuck and doesn't want to chance damaging a sychro/gear/fork.. etc...aka your same symptoms happens

 

Have a look at the sportshift controller behind panel in the trunk. Mine said this once because connection to control box was loose. Undid it and reconnected clips. No probs since. Hope that's all it is.

 

Mine just gave out on me. Same type of deal but I was using the peddles to shift. I got a fault on my dash, pulled over and restarted a couple of times. The car seemed to run fine fine. Two days later the car wouldn't down shift from 4th to 3rd. It wouldn't go into neutral. All I could down was slow down in to a parking lot. There was a trail of gearbox oil for about 100ft behind the car and the tow truck was the oly option.

No word on the problem diagnoses from Aston. The car is a 2012 V8V-S with roughly 13k miles on it. I'll be pissed if they try to blame it on the clutch. Aston warranty has been less than stellar so far.

 

The oil was most likely from the hydraulics, which means it wasn't the clutch itself. So it should be covered.

 

I just wanted to add an update and hopefully finality to my issues. Aston techs decided that the problem was a result of a faulty clip on a clutch pressure line. The line came out causing an immediate and excessive loss of hydraulic fluid... and of course, totaly failure of the clutch slave cylinder. They replaced the clutch line and the clip under warranty.

I had them inspect the clutch (plenty of life left in the current clutch) and replace the transaxle fluid (and strain it for any unusual metal materials). No issues with the fluid and the car is running great now.

I hope this is an isolated event. Aston Martin of Dallas took really good care of me in this situation.

 

I just had this happen to me this afternoon and it was quite embarrassing. Was in traffic and car stalled with the error code "Fault No Gear Change" and shut off. Turned it back on but the sportshift gear was stuck in "N". I could not put it in "D" or "R". Had to get it pushed to the side. Shut the car off, waited for about 10 minutes , fired it up , then onto "D" and off I went. No leaks, no visible sign of any issues. Just recently had the clutch done maybe 2 months ago.Took the factory clutch, sent it out to Bully, who redid it with stage 3 kevlar (they also did the flywheel). Very puzzeled as to why this happened and if it will happen again. I plan on taking it in to my tech tomorrow to do a scan.
Does anyone know if there is an actual fix for this ? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

You took a stock worn out clutch to Bully and had them make you a Stage 3 Kevlar unit?..did they replace the flywheel or machined it? If they machined it..I don't see it lasting long. The stock clutch disc is 8.8mm thick compressed, worn out compressed is 6.6mm(when issues normally start happening). So if you start machining the flywheel this takes up the worn out spec of the friction disc. If you machine the flywheel a nice amount due to it being burnt. Then slap on a new friction disc, the new worn out spec compressed might not be 6.6mm anymore, it might be 7.X-8.Xmm when issue start to rise.


Did the dealer do the install? Have you been doing a clutch learn on every cold/warm engine start up?

 

It was done by an Aston dealer.
I am told that the clutch was around 50-60% remaining when it was brought in to Bully, along with the flywheel. The kevlar upgrade was more of a preventative measure than a required service and the Clutch and Flywheel weren’t really worn, and was barely touched when they resurfaced it. The clutch was not burnt, nor was the flywheel. They basically did a clean up.
Took the car to the shop the next day, it was scanned, found nothing, and the error code that I received was not saved. At this point not sure if it was a glitch, but car seems to be driving just fine.
I have not been doing the clutch learn on every cold/warm start, but going forward, will be doing so.
I am however a bit nervous about driving it, what if it happens again ? I was lucky this time around, I was on a less busy side street, what if it happens while driving on the HWY ?
Just bought the car, less than a year ago ,have barely driven it, and problems already.
Is there a fix for this , what are the chances of it reoccurring ? Lots of questions but no real solutions ..

 

Nobody can answer those question without knowing the unknowns..


Just a few question I would need answered to even attempt a response(hehe..it's not short list):


What's the clutch bit count, did the wearindex show high slippage, was the ambient temp monitored and did it freeze, was the pump pressure good and what's the highest output when shifting, what was the trans input speed when clutch demand was open, was the system bleed correctly, was the correct fluid used, did Bully do a good job, did they make the clutch thicker or thinner than OEM..how did they know the OEM "new" measurement, what measurements did they use to determine the flywheel spec still good(I don't even have it), was the clutch spec cleared with the dealer AMDS, did enough learn complete to learn the new bas bit count, was the wear index done to see the new slippage spec, was the misfire factors relearnt because of the change in power conversion weight? ......and then there's, if the clutch was only 50-60%, why was it replaced, who gave this % measurement..dealer or Bully? The dealers measure in bit counts and can give an estimated % but would never know the actual unless we knew the actual bit count when car was new for this clutch assembled. Some 2 cars are alike but "which" car do we compare yours with? 1 of the 4.3L's will not always be the same as another same year 4.3L in bit count measurments..same goes for the 4.7L and ASM V12.




As for the clutch learn, you might need to do some reading up, from the owners manual and on this forum..lack of performing the clutch learn is the #1 reason for premature clutch wear AND issues of concern with gear shifts...with the clutch at 50%, this missed step alone tells me the flywheel had some hot spots. (I have been wrong in past, but this is just going from the numerous I've done to give that statement)


Sry for the above coming off blunt..but remote diagnosing would have to many questions to answer "would this happen again". ..I would definitely do a grandtouring visit to see what the measurements are of this current setup and let them see if they can simulate the concern again while datalogging the sensors..just my 2cents :-)