Aston Martin DB7, DB9, DBS, Vantage V8, Vanquish, and Classic models

Urgent help needed stuck in middle of brake project

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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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Urgent help needed stuck in middle of brake project

I removed driver side front and rear pads. I am stuck at parking brake, pins will not move is there any trick.
I am removing all pads to send to carbotech for putting their 1521 compound.
please help.
 
Old Dec 22, 2013 | 10:13 AM
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Do you need to change the parking brake pad. It doesnt serve any performance function. I think you already have the pads off you need.

I have had problems with pins. A design flaw of brembo brakes imo.

Try a hole punch and mallet making sure the surface area of the hole punch covers as much surface area on the pin.

Another option is to put a heat gel pack on the caliper. I have heard this can be done but never done it.

Alternatively undo the cable and remove caliper bolts at the rear and then put it on a work bench to remove pins.

Personally I would leave the parking brake as it is.
 
Old Dec 22, 2013 | 03:11 PM
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I would absolutely leave the parking brake alone.

Make sure that the carob tech pads have slots for the sensors. Mine did not.
 
Old Dec 22, 2013 | 07:43 PM
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Thanks you guys/girls.

I ended up leaving parking brake as it is. Tried hammering the pin, it would not budge, tries wd40, brake fluid but nothing.

Carbotech will use the pads I removed from the car(pagid), remove left over friction material, put new their material compound 1521. they also will make brake pad wear sensor slot.

I was having too much brake dust and famous "school bus ASTON MARTIN"problem. It squeak like a pig when I come to full stop at a traffic light say from 5 miles to 0. It was fine if I go from 20 to o suddenly but gradual stop makes noise.

I hope new pad/material fix that problem. its weird feeling to know that at present my DB9 has only parking brakes.
 
Old Dec 22, 2013 | 10:22 PM
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You have to rotate the EBRAKE pistons, they do not push in. They are a ratcheting rotating auto-adjusting design. They always get tighter and tighter as the EBRAKE pads wear down.

There is a special tool to insert into the two hole in the piston to rotate them back. You can try to use long needle nose pliers as a makeshift way of doing it.

Hope that helps
 
Old Dec 23, 2013 | 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 007 Vantage
You have to rotate the EBRAKE pistons, they do not push in. They are a ratcheting rotating auto-adjusting design. They always get tighter and tighter as the EBRAKE pads wear down.

There is a special tool to insert into the two hole in the piston to rotate them back. You can try to use long needle nose pliers as a makeshift way of doing it.

Hope that helps
Can you try to describe location of those "two holes"

I am guessing they are located on/facing inside of the caliper.
 
Old Dec 23, 2013 | 08:26 AM
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They are on the surface of the piston where the EBRAKE pads sit. You can't miss them.
 
Old Dec 23, 2013 | 02:00 PM
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You don't push out the pins on the Ebrake...those T50 bolts on the face of the caliper are to be removed..you can then split the caliper and slide out the pads. Once you remove the disc(or push back the Ebrake caliper at this point), you will be able to see the 2 spots in the Ebarke piston that allow you to thread back the piston into the caliper, I just use long noise pliers when I have the disc off..with disc still on I have a tool. You only need to thread the piston back into the caliper if you change the thickness of the pad or disc(replace with new ebrake pad or disc, or add iso shims to old ebrake pads)
 
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