Anybody every installed/removed an exhaust before?
#3
Care to elaborate on the experience? Anything about removing/installing that doesn't seem obvious? Best process steps?
I looked at the area under the car and it looks like it is a fairly simple mechanical process. I currently have a Quiksilver exhaust (was purchased that way) and I managed to locate and purchase a stock DBS exhaust. I am planning on installing it to find out what the car sounds like.
Any info on how best to remove and install the units would be helpful - such as removing/installing the hangars? whether they should be replaced? etc.
I looked at the area under the car and it looks like it is a fairly simple mechanical process. I currently have a Quiksilver exhaust (was purchased that way) and I managed to locate and purchase a stock DBS exhaust. I am planning on installing it to find out what the car sounds like.
Any info on how best to remove and install the units would be helpful - such as removing/installing the hangars? whether they should be replaced? etc.
#4
I found the most tricky part was to release the pressure on the springs holding the donut in place between the tailpipe and muffler. I used a wide mouth vice-grip to release the pressure to remove the nuts. The rest was tools and time. Removing the rear under pan, loosening part of the wheel well covering at the rear and the use of some long ratchet extension helped. No need to rush.
Be SAFE when you have your car raised. I had the rear of the car on ramps + jack stand for safety. I reused all bolts.
The "best" part I didn't have any left over or need extra.
Be SAFE when you have your car raised. I had the rear of the car on ramps + jack stand for safety. I reused all bolts.
The "best" part I didn't have any left over or need extra.
#5
Best to remove the wheel well liners, center under tray, and tail pipe extensions inside the finisher tips. Use a socket to remove the spring-loaded bolts from the exhaust pipe side. The nuts are welded onto the exhaust-side flange so there is no need to hold it captive while you rotate the bolt. Put a large piece of flat wood on a floor jack (your car should be on jack stands). Cover the wood with a towel to protect the exhaust from scratching and then raise it until it just barely lifts and supports the weight of the (very heavy) exhaust. Undo the two pairs of bolts that hold the aft hangers and then do the fore ones. Lift the exhaust about 1/2 inch more to clear the rear anti-roll bar and then lower carefully and move away from the car making sure not to scratch the bumper. Install is the reverse process.
#6
Use a socket to remove the spring-loaded bolts from the exhaust pipe side. The nuts are welded onto the exhaust-side flange so there is no need to hold it captive
Karl is correct- Nuts stay- bolts come out.
Karl is correct- Nuts stay- bolts come out.
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