yes, this is in regards to TOB wear. but, keep in mind, the TOB is always spinning, because it is held, fixed in place by a release fork, (which isn't moving). so, the release bearing inner area spins with the clutch pressure plate. Again, its always spinning. the difference, its spinning with a high axial load when you push your clutch pedal in. this is a high wear factor for the bearing vs spinning with your clutch pedal released. its the reason TOBs generally go bad on most (not all) street cars. Torque tube bearings are always spinning with the car moving, and how fast depends on which gear you are in and what engine RPM is. but , at a stop, if you push in the clutch, you can get the torque tube to stop. there are 3 bearings in the torque tube and there is not much load on them. they see no dirt and are permanently lubricated . they should last the life of the car.

 

Confused... what happens in a SS car? how is the clutch actuated?
When I come to a stop my car self-shifts to 1st. If I know I'm stoping for any significant amount of time (light recently turned red, etc), I leave the car on N, which is a bit of a pain. I don't know if this helps with clutch wear or now.

Other than the learn procedure and not backing up on hills, what can us SS owners do to help prolong clutch life?

 

It is the same clutch as a manual it simply has an actuator on it controlled by some electronics.
ALL ASM boxes will shift down automatically if it thinks you are about to stall it
I was advised not to put it in neutral simply hold it on the brakes.

Three other things you can do with ASM1
1) AVOID creep mode
2) lift slightly as it changes gear
3) AVOID D & C modes

This thread has some good info in it as well

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...ntage+clutches!

 

Not always the case 100% of the time

 

My question is how do you enjoy the car while minimizing clutch wear?

 

Id be curious to see a case where this is not the case.


very very easy. just let the clutch out fast, no dragging, high rpm release starts. literally, 1200rpm and let the clutch out smoothly with some throttle. jack rabbit start, same thing, just a little higher RPM. or even faster, high rpm, dump clutch, turn off traction control. match RPMs for shifts. it sounds better and is faster anyway. sometimes driving the car as it is designed, can be the fastest and the best way to make it last the longest. Babying the car never seems to make cars last either!
these are race cars for the street. enjoy them!! push them. they can take it, but do it right by being mindful of the mechanisms at work!

 

This is definitely an issue for me too. I've actually gotten the hang of the SS for everyday driving, including commuting on NJ highway traffic, and its actually growing on me. But the hill issue is proving to be a true PITA.

I'm not sure there is anyway to protect the clutch from itself with the SS. However, I've actually started to back off the throttle slightly when I want it to shift, which has dramatically smoothed out the shift points, as well as lessened the feeling of lash in the trans itself.

As far as first gear engagement, I'm trying to never let it creep (as it makes that delicious burning clutch smell), and only go for full engagement.

The calibration method also seems to help (what people here call clutch learns). Its been making the engagement behavior more deterministic for sure.

 

Ok so had my v8 a few months. Tonite went for a spirited country drive which involved a lot of downshifting. Been driving manual for nearly 40 years. My sport BMW has 250k on original clutch, brake pads and rotors with my driving habits. Get back into the garage tonite with the v8 and I can smell burning clutch. I wasn't driving this car very hard. Not near as hard as I downshift with others. I never redline and don't ride the clutch. In reading this thread an earlier poster asked how do you drive this car and enjoy it?
Beginning to wonder that myself.

For those that have had clutch issues and replacement, did you smell the clutch before it gave out??

 

I think we basically have to accept the fact that the V8V in stick or SS form has a weak clutch to a certain extent . Clutch dumping drag strip starts and riding the clutch are only going to speed up the process of failure .
Its pretty common knowledge now on here that the V12V clutch is far better and with some minor mods can be fitted to the V8V .
Velocity I believe basically can send you a kit to do the whole job soup to nuts and ur done .
I intend to my own when it becomes nessacary and will de doing the Velocity upgrade . I do have a hoist and a big shop and it will be a winter project when needed .
I have driven stick all my driving life which is now going on for 40 yrs. Never burnt a clutch yet . My V8V stick has 24k on it and is fine right now . Im the fourth owner of the car . How it was driven in the past I dont know and I can only assume its the original clutch .

 

I wonder why? It would seem to me that putting the ss in neutral would avoid the clutch spinning against the flywheel , thus extending the clutch life.

 

Ok my 2 cents. Before buying my first vantage, an 07 new, I like many others I met rested my left foot on the clutch pedal. Shortly after my purchase I took the Aston performance driving course in Michigan and actually learned the correct way to use a manual - among many other things. Just because someone bought a vantage you can't assume they drove the manual or ss correctly, and the Aston dealers are also at fault for not teaching proper technique - both options.

 

Valid point. I always recommend putting Sportshift in nuetral at lights. Leaving it in drive for extended periods is similar to holding the pedal down on a manual car and can potentially cause premature throw out bearing failure and weaken the pressure plate fingers.

Additionally, let's not forget that the clutch has two jobs. Not only does it deliver power from the engine to the transmission, but also acts as a fuse for the drivetrain. A $3k clutch is far cheaper than a $6k propshaft or $20k transmission... Especially in the event of mis-shifting, over-revving, or just general abuse. Which in my experience as a technician, people never like to admit.

 

I too am paranoid about this. I hate things that break fast. I take care of my stuff and want to get the most out of it.

I bought mine a year ago. This is how I drive my sportshift 1:

- always do the clutch learn when first starting the car
- i back out of my garage without giving it gas, let it creep out (only 5 meters)
- when starting from a standstill: put it into 1st, let go of the brake pedal and let it creep for about 1 second (so it has a bit of momentum), and then start giving it some gas (never go past 2.500/3.000 rps in 1st)
- go as fast as possible to 2nd gear.
- always let go of the gas pedal when shifting
- always put it into neutral when standing still for more than 10 seconds
- sometimes i drive it fast (shifting at high rpm's) but most of the time, I shift at 4.000 rpm.

I read horror stories about Ferrari F1 clutches only lasting 10.000 miles, but a Ferrari specialist i know, said he has 360's with 45.000 miles with the original clutch.

I think the key is: drive it fast, but use your brain while doing so. A pedal isn't an on/off switch. It has feelings too

 

I thought with the SportShift while sitting still, there is no connection between the clutch plates at all - not true?

Also, downshifting with the paddles - I assume using the engine to slow down would also be bad for wear?

 

I posted a rant about the V8 clutch some time ago so I am not going to repeat it.
That said the clutch on the V8 AM is an indefensible weak point. I actually read somewhere that for a few years, a sub-stand clutch disk was installed V8 Aston Martins?
As others have pointed out, with the manual shift cars, shift into neutral prior to stopping.
Keep your foot off the clutch until the light changes or the cars in front of you starts to move.
Apply minimal power until the pressure plate is fully engage with the clutch disk.
I also do not down shift at slow speeds where I might have to match the clutch to the engines RPM.
If I had a SportShift I would go into neutral at stop lights unless someone can convince me otherwise.