Budget brakes, turning rotors
I do all my own maintenance on my DB9 and I'm wondering if anyone has ever had their rotors turned rather than just replacing them every time?
I have stock rotors, no interest in the brembo rotors, too expensive and a waste since I'm not racing or doing any hard braking. I'm not sure what material the stock rotors are made of, but I'd like to get them turned once. I'll replace them next brake job. |
I'd suggest you measure their thickness and compare to minimum thresholds. Typically, with your usage it shouldn't be a problem having them turned.
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Originally Posted by telum01
(Post 4549371)
I'd suggest you measure their thickness and compare to minimum thresholds. Typically, with your usage it shouldn't be a problem having them turned.
Any idea what the minimum threshold is? I've got a service manual but I haven't dug through it to see if that's in there. |
Dug through the manual:
Brake discs Front Initial thickness 32 mm Min. thickness 30 mm Brake discs Rear Brake disc initial thickness 28.0 mm Brake disc Min. thickness 26.0 mm Brake pads New pad thickness 9.4 mm Minimum lining thickness 2.5 mm Brake pads Parking Minimum lining thickness 6 mm |
Typically when slotted rotors are machined, a small ridge can develop on the opposite side of the slot, which can cause some slight noise and strange pad wear. There are some places that use a certain technique to avoid this, but I'm not sure how it's done. If I were to do it myself, I would just machine the inner and outer lip of the rotor, and bed the new pads to the existing rotor surface.
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Why are you looking to get them turned? Are the brakes pulsing?
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Originally Posted by blue2000s
(Post 4549563)
Why are you looking to get them turned? Are the brakes pulsing?
So I figured if I'm changing pads I would turn rotors this round then next brake change slap on some new rotors. |
I do want to do a full brake fluid bleed on it also, maybe that will firm up the pedal some. Any pointers for a fluid change?
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I'm finishing up a DIY video and write-up right now. Got the bulk of the write-up on my website earlier today, video should be up tomorrow. Pretty straight-forward and easy to do, same as most modern brakes. Info in here, too:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...tch-fluid.html |
If they aren't vibrating or pulsating I would leave them alone and just do the pads. If it hasn't been done in a long time flush the fluid.
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Originally Posted by SinisterSF
(Post 4549577)
No pulsing or anything, I do feel as though I have to push down pretty hard to get good braking though, not that I've owned other AM's to compare to. The brakes on my wife's BMW are so touchy in comparison. She hates when I drive her car, always brake checking the **** out of her because I'm used to brakes that require some force. The brakes are a bit squeaky when first pulling her out of the garage, probably because she only gets driven once every week or two.
So I figured if I'm changing pads I would turn rotors this round then next brake change slap on some new rotors. The Aston brakes are not as grabby as any of my other cars. I also find them harder to modulate than typical. This is mainly a pad characteristic. You could make the brakes more grabby when cold and at initial application with a change of pad material. |
Brake modulation is most likely a brake fluid issue. Most of the Astons out there have bad brake fluid in them. If you are not changing the fluid religiously at least once every 2 years (if not sooner) then your brake fluid is probably black sludge right now. It's by far the #1 most overlooked maintenance job.
Motul 600 or Castrol SRF will provide 10% better feel and last 2x as long as normal brake fluid. It can also handle way more heat during aggressive driving |
Originally Posted by 007 Vantage
(Post 4549733)
Brake modulation is most likely a brake fluid issue. Most of the Astons out there have bad brake fluid in them. If you are not changing the fluid religiously at least once every 2 years (if not sooner) then your brake fluid is probably black sludge right now. It's by far the #1 most overlooked maintenance job.
Motul 600 or Castrol SRF will provide 10% better feel and last 2x as long as normal brake fluid. It can also handle way more heat during aggressive driving |
So long as your brake fluid is fine, modulation is heavily based on pad material.
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Originally Posted by Timodc
(Post 4549532)
Typically when slotted rotors are machined, a small ridge can develop on the opposite side of the slot, which can cause some slight noise and strange pad wear. There are some places that use a certain technique to avoid this, but I'm not sure how it's done. If I were to do it myself, I would just machine the inner and outer lip of the rotor, and bed the new pads to the existing rotor surface.
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