I've spent quite a bit of time in the forums and have been able to find out where to get parts and learn from some of the easier DIY's (door struts, etc). First and foremost - I am not a mechanic and what I am sharing is my experience to potentially save someone some time if they contemplate this.

My engine had a squeaking sound when cold, and most of the information I found directed that the first step is to inspect the accessory drive belt and idler pulleys and potentially replace if the sound is localized to this area. The belt was not new, but not cracked either, so I made the decision to replace the accessory drive belt and while I was in there replace the three idler pulleys since the incremental cost was not great.

I did not find a DIY for idler pulley replacement, so I figured I'd post one to contribute as I've already received much benefit from this site. So here goes.

The two main issues that I spent time navigating are finding the right tool to use with the belt tensioner, and getting proper access to the pulleys. After much research, I purchased this serpentine belt tensioner tool on Amazon. I saw several that had fixed 3/8" heads, but they limited the position of the tool. This tool has two inserts 3/8" and 1/2" that can be inserted on any axis in the hex slot. Additionally, it has two different length extensions that help to work around obstacles.






One issue I was very concerned about was dropping something since the entire engine area has a front undertray which will catch whatever you drop (good news), but if you cannot get to what you drop from above, you will need to place the car on jack stands and remove the front undertray (PITA). As fate would have it, I did not attach the extension properly to the tensioner tool, and it fell down there. Fortunately I could see it and with some improvisation fish the extension out.

The next step was figuring out the best way to access the idler pulleys to be able to get a socket on them without a universal socket extension, and provide enough space for a torque wrench for proper tightening once they were replaced. The best option for me was taking the two bolts out that mounted the positive jumper point and lay the assembly down on the frame separating the engine front from the radiator. I was careful to verify that the jumper point was completely enclosed and would not short out on the frame.



Positive jump point in center of picture before removing bolts.


Positive jump point moved out of the way.

Now it was on to using the belt tensioner tool and sliding the belt off of each pulley.



Belt tensioner tool position

I used a 1/4" drive, 13mm socket to remove and replace all three idler pulleys. I did drop one while removing, but by this time, I was an expert at fishing things out from the front under-tray. I torqued the pulley bolts per the workshop manual and put the belt back on. My new belt is arriving in a couple of days, and it will be about a 15min job to replace it. I highly recommend getting a serpentine belt hook as well to speed up the job and work through the narrow spaces.

I inspected everything three times before buttoning back up and starting the engine.

Hope this helps.

Jim

 

Great post! Thanks for sharing the experience.