I use the Master Blaster in the door jams and it works great. Don't have a 30' hose though... There's always a spot or two of water remaining. One big benefit is drying the brake rotors before rusty water can drip onto the clean wheel.

Downside of the 8hp Master Blaster is needed a dedicated 10 amp circuit.

 

Not sure what amp circuit my plug that has been used is on. However, if you turn one switch on at a time, it works fine. Both on at the same time, breaker flips. So I just do one at a time.

I did 30' hose so I can blow the garage out and driveway when needed. Plus not drag the machine around. But simple enough it has wheels.

But, best tool ever!!!!!!!!!!

 

I am new to this world of washing, so I am taking to heart all of this advice. It sounds like it would be good to have an abundance of MF towels available for just about every aspect of cleaning the car. It also sounds like they need to be discarded after a few uses, depending on what you are cleaning since dirt can become caught in the fibers and unable to be washed or rinsed out.

I have seen really cheap MF towels, less than $1 each, and I have seen examples that can cost $25.00 per towel at specialty auto sites.

I have also read that some of the cheap towels like the Kirkland brand, have labels sewn onto them which can scratch the paint and they are not easily removed. Different towels come in different sizes. Some are terry cloth like and some are are waffle weave.

For a novice like me, what would you recommend? Do you have a preferred source? Do you have a preferred size? Different ones for different jobs? I feel like I have a lot to learn and I appreciate any guidance you have.

Thanks for your posts. I am learning and want to maintain my car correctly.

 

Glad to help

1. Costco Kirkwood yellow MF towel bundle is what I get for all washing, wiping etc. I use 14x of them for specifically washing the car. I dedicate 2x for my wheels (ie...ones that were previously wash towels) and I only rinse those out after each cleaning. I don't wash those with any other towels. Same for interior towels, I tend to keep one or two in the car to wipe down every now and then, but when I clean the interior I grab those and use them, then wash with the others.

2. For any type of polish, wax, spray detail etc... I have tried many with different pile lengths and cost. I have found the AMMO NYC red towels at $15 for 6x I think work great for this process. So I purchased 3x bundles for specific use for the removal of the liquids.

3. Window MF--- best I can say is try some from Autogeek or Detailed Image or several other online companies till you find a set that work nicely for you. I lined out the details of really cleaning your windows. So you can use regular yellow MF towels to do the initial wiping, then use the specific mf towels for the final wipe. This process works very well. I hate cleaning windows, so try not to do it that often.

4. Drying----- I specifically recommend the $300 specific Metro Blower 8hp, w/ the 24ft or 30' hose. Its much more specific blowing power than I would have ever thought. There is no excuse to not get a specific blower due to the Metro Sidekick at $85 shipped on Amazon. So you should be using one of these for the drying. If you choose not too, or have to dry it not at home sometime, those online companies have waffle weave drying towels to buy. MF towels hate water, so you must lightly dampen the towel before starting to dry. Then they soak up water. But make sure the dry towel isn't wiped on the car to get it wet because the dry fibers can marr the surface. The AMMO Hydrate is a lubricating agent specifically used during the drying phase. It is sprayed on the moist towel then the vehicle is wiped. This helps to lubricate the towel further to prevent any possible marring. I keep a bottle for when I travel only. Otherwise I blow the car dry. Leaf Blowers don't focus the air as tight as the Metro blowers. Gas powered ones suck up the oils in the exhaust and then spray that on the vehicle. Electric ones (other than you will most likely hit the car with it at some point) aren't powerful enough to dry the car IMO. People swear by them, but that is being cheap IMO. Those users will still need to touch the car with a drying towel in a lot of places, plus not be able to get all the crevices; mirror casings, window moldings, body panels etc; dry which will lead to drips that will be wiped off with a towel. So your defeating the purpose of using a blower. People I have seen use a blower typically get water spots where places dried on the paint while blowing off other areas. Then a damp towel is wiped. Waste of time, again IMO

All of the above, does not have to be expensive, nor time consuming. Once you get your process and pattern down, I don't think any extra time is taken while washing and drying your car. But, you know for a fact, that you are not introducing any marring into your paint and you car will always look good, rather than slowly deteriorate, then another Paint Correction will need to be done.


I am working on a paint protection 101 and application process. After that, I will write a paint Correction 101. I do NOT have PPF (paint protection film) and Vinyl wrap experience other than a few cars have had it already, so I know how to work with it rather than apply it. So wont be writing specifics on those.

 

Hi SheriffDep,

Have you worked with 3M's NEW film that just came out a few months ago? I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on 3M's new clear coat and how it maintains.


Regards,
Manny

 

Manny,

I would be more than thrilled if you could or would work with me on PPF products. I will be relocating to Ashburn Va in Jan and might even have about 3x weeks off work. I would easily drive up to Baltimore several times to learn the process, IF that could be worked out. I have never known an installer for the product where I could hands on learn. I have been deployed for the past 2x years so cannot buy some and do test panels. I know its a long learning process. But, if you have training or desire to help someone I would welcome it---also your a forum sponsor so would definitely possibly recommend the product to people. I DO NOT have my own business. Paint Corrections and teaching is a hobby of mine. I am actually working to have a spring workshop teaching the process to NoVa exotic car owners. But details and location are in the beginning stage. Idea is for AM owners from here, and possibly DC AM buyers to teach them how to take care of what they have. I wouldn't charge a penny, but if someone high up on the food chain for detailing is brought in to help then might have to charge a nominal fee to pay their expenses. All this is in pre-planning. Email is velocitybts@yahoo.com if you would like to talk further.

 

Hi SheriffDep,

I will certainly take care of helping someone who serves our country. But there may be more opportunity for both of us than just "showing you the ropes". Give me a call later this week to discuss.


Regards,
Manny

 

Will call around this time on Wednesday. The number most likely will show a California city, not sure how my calls are routed. Just FYI


I will also keep PPF as an open edit to my next 101 posting.

 

Any suggestions for cleaning and maintaining rubber strips around windows and windshield ?

 

303 Protectant works great and is easy to apply. Has a UV guard in it.

 

Corgi is on track for this. I would use Griots Garage Rubber Prep product squeezed onto a corner of a MF towel and then work the rubber seals to clean them. For most of us, it should be only a spot clean or minimal cleaning to wipe dust off them. You can also use a 70% water/30% Isoproyl mix and spray onto a towel and then wipe them down also. But make sure you use a conditioner after using a degreaser such as that. You are trying to prevent them from drying out. Then I would use the 303 Rubber protectant that comes in a shoe shine foam applicator tipped bottle to condition them and protect them.

FOR ALL OUTSIDE-----

I just bought a 2011 RR SC that has a ton of black plastic all around the vehicle. I plan to use 22ple Glass coating for Trim on all black plastic/metal trim pieces around the vehicle. I probably will use a all purpose cleaner on spots if they need to be scrubbed to clean. MY Aston's trim is all fine but I might see if I can apply the front window plastic trim areas with the glass coating also.

I don't mind coatings, I actually love them; but for paint on our Astons I prefer to not use them. But for interior or exterior trim, wheels, wheel well liners, or any metal underneath I think the coatings are spot on and I do use them. I have been saying for years now that coatings must be maintained as much as 2-3x times a year or they can start looking grungy and losing its properties in areas. So If i am still going to have to maintain the coating, I might as well just continue to apply a sealant then carnauba once ever couple months. With AMMONYC coming out with his REFLEX which provides the coating type of gloss levels, but its not semi-permanent and should be topped with a sealant, this is what I now do.

I am still debating on whether to use 22ple on the Range Rover paint, I will worry about that after I am done with that paint correction.


I have a 101---Protecting your Car thread I am working on. Should take about a week to wrap that up and post up here.

 

Great write up! I feel a foam cannon should not be optional if going as far as to recommend a triple bucket wash. For those of us whose cars never see rain and just have dust/road grime I find the foam cannon lifts and removes 80% of everything before the mitt even touches the car!

I also love the master blaster. As long as the car is waxed or ceramic coated it literally blows right off without ever touching the car. Everyone that has seen it in all of its heated, filtered dual motored air action has bought one.

I have been following a similar process as you over the past 10 years and 42k miles and car still looked new. I just had paint corrected and lifetime ceramic coating added (4 layers of Ceramic Pro 9H and a layer of ceramic pro light on top) last week. Like you I did not add for some time but I didnt make the commitment due to the cost and the fact that I enjoy waxing.

Now that I have I would highly recommended as the car has never shined like it does today nor felt as slick and I have literally tried dozens of waxes and sealants over the years. They make special maintence product you can add every 6 months to keep it looking just as good as it does today that is a lot easier to apply than waxing and again the car looks better than waxes and sealants.

**Edit** After looking into 3M's new product mentioned above, Expel and SunTek I went with Suntek wrap 2 weeks ago over entire front of car, sills and rockers. Suntek looked clearest to me but in reality all three looked similar....to me what I realized is you want to solve for the best installer and in this case its Bespoke here in Austin and he happens to work with Suntek.

 

Thanks SheriffDep! My other car is a BMW Z4. It has been 6 years and I have been washing/detailing myself. Noticed rubber strips around glass has become rough and shows spots as shown in the attached picture. I used gummy pflege stift' without any success. Now thinking of replacing the rubber strips which is very costly. My DB9 is fine. But just want to make sure the same thing doesn't happen to DB9's rubber strips.

 

Great information Sheriff! Never too old to learn something new. We're fortunate to have access to your talent and experience in this department.. I've learned a lot from you over the years and it's greatly appreciated!

Just had my Detailer polish the piano black interior panels in my car while I have everything removed for my new plated ***** and the installation of a glass button kit and then he coated with sealer to help keep protected from the dreaded swirl marks and scratches from routine cleaning. I'm so glad you turned me on to this stuff!

Thanks again for taking the time to post and share with the group some of the wealth of information you posses. Hope you're enjoying your DB9!

 

Still in the dustbowl buddy. But its cold here (20F). Headed home soon and will be located in northern Va.

Will be finally installing the 2013 trunk lid on the car either before Christmas or once I move. Not sure, all depends on time.

I just got in my final pieces---the trunk lid carpet on the DBS and 2013 and later DB9s are different sized, so still waiting 4x months later for Aston to make me one. But, got the am/fm antennae film, new Black AM wing badge, I found a used trunk plate plastic shelf thing that holds the umbrella, and plan too:

Wiring harness for old to new deck lid is different. The main issue is the plugs. Because they are different, and AM Bits wouldn't cut on off for me so I have one that fits (I WONT cut the Factory ones on the car off period. Keeping OEM) I plan to cut the plug on the deck lid off (2013 wiring harness) and then Splice wires onto the 2005 wiring harness before the plug. Then tie all those wires together.


1. Do you know how to get to the third brake light on my car? Need to splice, unhook, and run wires to the trunk plug