i wanted to replace the OEM pagid brake pads primarily because they created way to much dust and occasionally squealed. i found a set of fronts on ebay for about 20 bucks and some rears on astonmartinbits.com for about 24. it took about 15 minutes per side to install them and so far after three or four intentionally hard stops they have not squeaked once. we'll see about the dust... oh. they are semi-metallic.

 

are these the C-TEK ones?

 

the rears are c-tek and the fronts are the NewTek Galaxies. this sort of scrounging is why i can afford to own and operate an aston. if i had to take it to the local aston dealer i would have had to sell it after the second visit.
it should be mentioned that ALL four of the NewTek pads were identical meaning that on one side the wear sensor wire support cast into the brembo caliper could not be used. it appears to not be an issue in that the wire seems to be supported adequately without it. everyone will know for themselves if this is sufficient cause, in and of itself, to find these pads unsuitable for use. it ain't bother'n me so far. frankly, i would just as soon not have the wear pad indicator system at all.

and on another note.... i've recently determined that a front wheel has excessive lateral runout (possibly bent) and so..... i ended up getting a refurbished one from astonmartinbits.com for about $450 delivered. i hope to hell this fixes the steering wheel vibration at 60+ mph that's been driving me crazy. it's only cost me two new tires that i really didn't need and an alignment that i probably didn't need either only to find that while i observed an additional second balancing that i didn't need either that the wheel was wobbling slightly on the hunter wheel-balancing machine as the mechanic was balancing the wheel.

 

Nobody should advocate installing the cheapest brakes possible. Your brakes are the most important safety feature of any car.

Porterfield R4-S FTW.

 

firstly, i reject your implied characterization of brake pads as "..cheapest brakes possible..". brakes pads are only a component of brakes. secondly, and as having changed pads on my vehicles for about 30 years, i can say for a fact that standard pads on all them have cost no more than 20 dollars per set and have been more than adequate to satisfy the NTSB as far as quality goes.
we simply disagree, so be it.

beware, i may be advocating a set of tires that cost less than 400 dollars in the near future mounted at the local walmart, not to mention a 15 dollar thermostat from NAPA. and i'll be looking into a pair of door struts for about 30 dollars from non-aston-martin source as soon as i take one off and measure the dimensions. you will be, no doubt, horrified. stay tuned..

 

this is good info. please do share when you find out

 

keep your finds coming!

I have, in the past, gone way aftermarket on some replacement items like tires and brakes on some of my BMWs and Porsches because some of my cars are never driven to design specs... for the BMW I track, however I try to use performance based parts...

also, check out Redpants... Rich is a vendor here...I ordered door check struts from him... found generics for $30 a piece and he sold them, a pair of OEM for about $66... always good to throw some business to board sponsors

 

i bought 2 front tires on amazon. get ready for the name.... Cosmo Muchomacho at $144.97 on amazon (and yes mary, the name is embossed on the side for all to see), delivered. had both mounted and balanced locally at a generic tire shop for $40. they don't have an offering in a size for the rears as far as i can tell. but then again they're not the same size anyway. i've found mismatching tires brands, front to rear are undetectable by the likes of me even though i've raced at 100+ speeds at mid-ohio and watkins glen many years ago (my only high speed driving, and not that that makes me ANY kind of expert, mind you).

OTOH, if you want matching tires.... i've found, Atlas Force tires in 235/40r19 and 275/35r19's at walmart for $70-80 a tire delivered by Priority Tire, i think. (not available for pick-up at walmart)

 

yes, particularly the pads.
most consist of nothing more than a thick stamped iron base that has had light machining with a bonded ablative material consisting of the latest material approved by governmental agencies WRT the protection of the environment. either organic based, ceramic based or metallic based. generally speaking the more dust, the more noise and squeal and screech, the more grip, the more wear to the rotor, (IOW performance oriented) the more expensive. none of which i am the least bit interested in or could even find useful in safe use on the street. in fact ALL those attributes are detrimental, IMO. and i wouldn't be seduced by claims of more grip, inasmuch as the ABS system in conjunction with the contact patch of your tire is the arbiter of that.

 

Fluids and filters list please.

 

sorry, it's limited to oil and oil filters and a little anti-freeze.
i bought the car WITH four oil/filter changes from autonation (an online, nationwide used car outfit, that rents space in well-established major new car dealerships in order to sell their cars, no haggling allowed. mine was located at a fancy five story BMW dealership in mountain view, a tony suburb of san jose) along with the car for about $80 dollars a change, so about $320 total. i'm old and this might(!) constitute a 'life time supply'
i've had one oil/filter change already and i know not the brand. the oil filter was part of the deal, but i went ahead and bought a suitable oil filter online for about 10 dollars and presented it at the oil change in case they didn't have one to fit. i didn't want the trip to be all for naught. i also had to top-off the antifreeze after i successfully installed a new thermostat ($15 ford part at napa and props to redpants for the excellent video) and spilled a couple of quarts. this i bought at a local o'reillys or pep boys.

and in case anyone is wondering, i DO use high-octane fuel, even though most modern induction system computers do a decent job of altering ignition parameters to diminish the detrimental effects caused by engine knock. this engine does have high compression and in this case, i feel it's money well spent, primarily because i have yet to read or hear of anyone doing otherwise. however i don't use high octane in my four-cylinder honda st1300, 115 HP motorcycle. it only 'recommends' high octane fuel and states clearly that it is not entirely necessary. and having traveled from west coast to east and back numerous timed on it without issue, and the confidence that that instills, that given the *****, i might if the notion takes me, let the fuel get really, really low, throw in a couple gallon of the cheap stuff (87/89 octane) and if see is she knocks. if so, a quick fill up with the good stuff to dilute the bad and bob's my uncle. and if she doesn't knock? well that's TBD.

the only fluid refresh that i've contemplated is the transmission 90W oil. having been subjected to a bit of gear clashing between 1st and 2nd after a cold start, i'm thinking that a 75w-90w might be of some help. why do it? because i can do the change myself, and it's a rather inexpensive bit of maintenance that has probably never been done in the thirteen years of the car's existence. it's time and couldn't hurt is what i'm thinking.

 

Manual or Sportshift?

If Sportshift, FCP can get you 70W75 Redline MT-LV for the transaxle. Its $20/L, but is still the most cost-effective way to go if you care about using fluids with the proper specifications. Its covered under their lifetime replacement policy as well, so all you'll pay for is shipping back to CT every change interval.

 

I also buy cheap pads! The fronts are ATE from VW Toureg and the rears are from the front pads of a SEAT car.
If the ATE pads can stop a 3 ton truck it will stop My Aston!!

 

i'd be interested in the manufacturer and model name/number of those aston rear pads that are the same as those on the SEAT. i had a devil of a time finding a pair that satisfied my, shall we say, preferences (lol). i found a centric pad on carid.com that i think will work but have yet to receive them. i may need them...

 

The factory brake pads on my Vantage were fairly worn but haven't triggered (worn down) the pad sensors yet. For the price I figured I would put the C-Tek pads on front/rear temporarily over this past fall into spring. Noticed a bit of a improvement after bedding them in; little better stopping and dust a touch less as well (still a lot of dust overall). These minor improvements could just be from these being new pads compared to worn factory pads. Not bad considering the substantial price savings though for street use.

With that said I have new Brembo rotors and Porterfield pads waiting my garage cabinet which I will install closer to summer time.