FWIW... I ended up replacing the RHS pump this last spring. Similar symptoms as the LHS pump except the idle pressure was fine. I was getting fuel cut at high RPM instead of upshifting and the engine-off fuel pressure was dropping pretty quickly on bank 2. I actually did use the 2008+ pump. The swap was a bit more involved, requiring the whole pump, filter, and filter retaining bracket to be replaced. Basically everything from the pump to the pump bulkhead fitting on the RHS. The biggest challenge to this approach, I think, is the filter bracket. The <2008 bracket is a curved metal strap and a separate retaining bracket to secure the hoses to the pump. The >2008 filter is plastic with registration tabs that lock into a similar curved strap with slots cut into it to match the filter. I wasn't successful finding the part number for the updated strap, but was able to find a second-hand >2008 filter that came with the strap.

 

Hi, my fuel gauge isn't working properly. I think I need to replace the float. I didn't see the float attached to the pump in your photos. Perhaps you removed it before removing it from the tank?
Do I have to remove the pump from the tank to replace the float?
Is it a simple job?
Thanks

 

The float is attached to a bracket in the center of the tank between the pumps. I *think* its the same jaguar float sensor that would normally attach to the pump module, but i never had mine out.

Nothing is easy when it comes to the fuel tank in the coupe.

 

The float is indeed attached the front of the tank and sits in between the two pumps. I was careful not to break mine when I removed my pumps but other than that didn't really pay attention to it. I'd want to confirm it was the float that failed and not wiring/connectors.

The float looks suspiciously like this one: 09 2009 Jaguar XF 4.2L Supercharged Fuel Gauge Tank Level Sending OEM E on ebay. For sure the suction pump is for our DB9s, so I'm assuming the float is as well.

As always, "your mileage may vary"!

 

I don't think it's the wiring. When you fill up the tank, the gauge goes up, then slowly drops until it reads empty. The car is from 2010, so maybe there's some rust on the reeds.
I bought a new original float from an English website, which will arrive in two weeks. I hope replacing just the float isn't difficult. In the photo, the float appears to be attached to the pump.

 

Interesting. Your configuration is different than that in my 2006 Volante. I have two pumps like the one on the left. The one on the right is similar to the one in a Jag XKR but with a different base.

Once you have access to the tank, as long as you pump the fuel out it's not particularly hard (or fun for that matter) to work inside the tank.

 

That picture is from my original posts. I described that the right hand pump in the photo is straight from the jag and I took parts from it to rebuild my LH pump. The jag has the float attached to the pump, but on DB9 the float is separate.

 

@GA_DB9 I've been lurking on this thread for a while as I've been trying to find time to work on my 07 DB9 Volante. I've had the dreaded "Emission System Service Required" with a plethora of random codes and chasing down parts (I've done MAF sensors, PCV valves, O2 sensors, fuel rail pressure sensors, fuel pump driver modules, and nothing has fixed it)

Couple years ago had the first random stall. Started right back up. Drove it for another year and a half before I had it again. Then, about a year and a half ago, had my first crank no start issue. After a couple attempts, it turned over and ran fine. Had that issue intermittently for 6 months. Then on a long road trip for a half-cross-country move (from GA lol), after 250 miles and a fuel stop, it wouldn't turn over at all. That was 9 months ago. Since then I've successfully started it 3 or 4 times, but usually after one or two crank no start attempts.

I've finally resigned myself to the fact that there's an issue with the fuel pump itself. As you stated, they're unobtanium for this model year (as are the filters...???).

Before I yank everything apart on exploratory surgery in the fuel tank, I was hoping you might have some insight. Having had the pumps out of your car, is it possible to fit a new pump onto the mounting bracket instead of replacing the whole unit? Is it possible it's just the relief valves? Also, did you just re-use your old filters? If not, where did you find a replacement?

The poor girl has been camped in my garage for 9 months, and with spring around the corner, I'd really like to get her back on the road soon. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

If you have swapped out a pump motor on a bmw you have pretty much done it for the DB9. I do recommend getting an OBDII reader (Foxwell NT530 works well) to read the fuel rail pressure. That will tell you if your check valve is dead. As long as you don't mess with the intank fuel lines and ruin their fittings it all goes back together relatively painlessly.

 

I have the Foxwell OBDII and did some live data on the fuel rail pressure one of the last times I had it running. What would be the specific indication for a bad check valve vs. the pump motor itself? If I remember correctly (it's been 9+ months), one rail built pressure to 40+ psi when I put the key in and the system primed, and occasionally the other rail would not build pressure at all. If I cycled the key a couple times and primed the system again, eventually I would build pressure. Once it runs, I usually can keep it running, it's been a startup issue (save those 2 occurrences when I had a stall condition at idle revs with about 1/4 tank left).

 

I'd be surprised if it were the actual pumps. Both of mine it was the bypass/relief valves. I didn't know there was a replacement solution from the factory when I did mine, but if you're pre-08, there's a kit that replaces the filter to tank bulkhead hoses that contains a regulator and what I think is a locking device to force closed the original regulator. Part number is 8G43-9S317-AA.

 

I have had this type of pump (gyrator) fail (on a M5 come to think of it) in the manner you describe. I made the job worse by filling the tank. Just that much more to suck out and stash in other cars.

 

So I've ordered that part, but it looks like it may be as hard to come by as the pumps and filters are. We'll see, maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised when the supplier gets back to me. Fingers crossed...

Looking closer at the string of posts here and the part I ordered, it did spark a question. Which are the valves on the part number you provided (between the filter output and the fuel tank bulkhead connection to the fuel rails)? Are those check valves, or regulator valves? From the photos you posted earlier, it looks like the regulator valves sit on top of the pump. If those are the valves that are likely failed, then I think I've ordered the wrong part.

I haven't pulled out any of these parts from the tank myself, so I may do that to inspect them and see what I can glean from that. Either way, it seems I'll have to start getting creative with replacing parts, as none of them seem to be very readily available. Yay for owning 20 year old Astons!

I really appreciate the help from everyone here. Closest Aston dealer/mechanic is hundreds of miles away, and I can't even imagine what they'd charge to rummage around in the tank for me...

 

The regulator on the top of the pump is a pressure relief valve. There's also a spring loaded check valve in the in the plastic housing for the regulator. The regulators can fail in an open position and bleed off all pressure in the system. The replacement part I listed above just adds a new regulator between the filter and the fuel tank exit and then I assume the screw/lockwasher/clip attaches to the old regulator to force its valve into the closed position, disabling it. I'm pretty sure Aston made this kit available for the 07 and earlier cars since the older fuel pumps are no longer available and to save the cost of retrofitting 08 and later pumps. $250 for the repair kit or $600 for each new 08+ pump, $300 for each 08+ filter, etc. Double for both sides. It adds up fast.

What year is your car? Coupe or Volante?

 

Okay, that makes way more sense now.

I've got a 2007 Volante. VIN last 5 are 07143. My particular model seems to be in that weird in between of the parts swap over (3-pin coil packs, but older fuel system set up).

I'm looking at the lines between the filter and fuel tank exit, and there is a valve there. Not sure if it's a check valve, or if this kit was installed by a previous owner (I bought the car in 2020, and the service history is sparse at best).

Here's some pictures of what I'm looking at.

Were there originally valves in those lines?



Fuel lines from filter to tank bulkhead

RHS fuel pump

LHS fuel pump