Emergency Metal Key for DB9 2013
I have purchased emergency keys for 2 different Astons. Your quoted pricing is in the ballpark. Both of mine came cut from the factory. I took the keys to a local locksmith who copied them for $20. I put the originals away for safe keeping and hid the duplicates on the car.
I just got to cut the emergency key for my 2010 Rapide.
When I unlock the car with the fob, I can lock it with the metallic emergency key by turning clock-wise.
However, when the car is locked, I can not unlock it with the metallic emergency key.
Is there a special procedure to do so?
Or should I try and oil the inside of the lock itself?
When I unlock the car with the fob, I can lock it with the metallic emergency key by turning clock-wise.
However, when the car is locked, I can not unlock it with the metallic emergency key.

Is there a special procedure to do so?
Or should I try and oil the inside of the lock itself?
I just got to cut the emergency key for my 2010 Rapide.
When I unlock the car with the fob, I can lock it with the metallic emergency key by turning clock-wise.
However, when the car is locked, I can not unlock it with the metallic emergency key.
Is there a special procedure to do so?
Or should I try and oil the inside of the lock itself?
When I unlock the car with the fob, I can lock it with the metallic emergency key by turning clock-wise.
However, when the car is locked, I can not unlock it with the metallic emergency key.

Is there a special procedure to do so?
Or should I try and oil the inside of the lock itself?
Possibly the cut is incorrect. Tibbie keys will lock any car, but only the correct key code will unlock it. So you can take your newly cut key to any VH platform AM and physically lock it.
That'd be a bummer, I had to go to the dealer to get them to decode the lock...
Interesting, the problem with the first built Rapide is their key codes were lost or not recorded by VIN due to being built in Graz, Austria. So even AM doesn't have the corrct codes for most cars.
If it is the correct cut just make sure the key barrels have some light oil and the key is all the way in. A light tap on the back of the key may help if it's 1 segment off. And some fresh cut keys can be sticky. Light brass wire brush may help soften the edges on the key.
If it is the correct cut just make sure the key barrels have some light oil and the key is all the way in. A light tap on the back of the key may help if it's 1 segment off. And some fresh cut keys can be sticky. Light brass wire brush may help soften the edges on the key.
Interesting, the problem with the first built Rapide is their key codes were lost or not recorded by VIN due to being built in Graz, Austria. So even AM doesn't have the corrct codes for most cars.
If it is the correct cut just make sure the key barrels have some light oil and the key is all the way in. A light tap on the back of the key may help if it's 1 segment off. And some fresh cut keys can be sticky. Light brass wire brush may help soften the edges on the key.
If it is the correct cut just make sure the key barrels have some light oil and the key is all the way in. A light tap on the back of the key may help if it's 1 segment off. And some fresh cut keys can be sticky. Light brass wire brush may help soften the edges on the key.
I went to the dealer to have my tibbie key cut from my VIN and I am having the same issue of not being able to unlock the doors.
The locks at 1st were VERY gummed up so i am suspecting the cable (as mentioned above) is at issue, which seems like a whole lot of work to get to.
Has anyone been into that area and worked on the locks that could share a little perspective?
The locks at 1st were VERY gummed up so i am suspecting the cable (as mentioned above) is at issue, which seems like a whole lot of work to get to.
Has anyone been into that area and worked on the locks that could share a little perspective?
Thank you for confirming, now I can rule out the locksmith cutting the key in the reverse order...
Im in Tucson





