Buying 2004 RS6 - need help
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
From: Dallas
Rep Power: 0
- Take the VIN to Audi Dealer and ask really nice and have them pull all the records for you.
- Have a dealer or competent independent shop do a PPI on the car.
- Timing belt should have been replaced at least once already, at 35k miles. It is due again at 75k. (dealer charges ~$3500)
- Intercoolers typically leak, look through the front lower L&R grills and look for any blackening or oil residue on the intercooler corners. This is a dead giveaway of a leaky unit.
- Valve cover Gasket leaks are common, look close for seepage (Passenger side VC removal requires engine removal per Audi).
- DRC has been replaced so check it close again for leaks and measure the ride height F&R center of the hub to the fender arch (Spec is F=14 1/8" R=14 1/2") . There is a 1 yr/12k mile warranty on the DRC recall work.
- As said before, check the rotors and pads, rotors are ~$1300 for all 4, and pads are at least ~$300.
- Oil changes are every 5K and will be at least ~$120 if you DIY.
- Torque Converter and Trans are a weak point and stock power is at the limits of the TC/trans.
- Check the suspension close, look for torn boots, cracked bushings. Common failure items for a heavy, powerful car.
- Tires are ~$1200 a set, requires XL load tires due to its 2+ ton weight.
- EGT and Front O2 sensors require engine removal (per Audi), but can be done by lowering the subframe a bit (still a pain in the neck).
***Buy a reputable extended warranty unless you have super deep pockets!
- Have a dealer or competent independent shop do a PPI on the car.
- Timing belt should have been replaced at least once already, at 35k miles. It is due again at 75k. (dealer charges ~$3500)
- Intercoolers typically leak, look through the front lower L&R grills and look for any blackening or oil residue on the intercooler corners. This is a dead giveaway of a leaky unit.
- Valve cover Gasket leaks are common, look close for seepage (Passenger side VC removal requires engine removal per Audi).
- DRC has been replaced so check it close again for leaks and measure the ride height F&R center of the hub to the fender arch (Spec is F=14 1/8" R=14 1/2") . There is a 1 yr/12k mile warranty on the DRC recall work.
- As said before, check the rotors and pads, rotors are ~$1300 for all 4, and pads are at least ~$300.
- Oil changes are every 5K and will be at least ~$120 if you DIY.
- Torque Converter and Trans are a weak point and stock power is at the limits of the TC/trans.
- Check the suspension close, look for torn boots, cracked bushings. Common failure items for a heavy, powerful car.
- Tires are ~$1200 a set, requires XL load tires due to its 2+ ton weight.
- EGT and Front O2 sensors require engine removal (per Audi), but can be done by lowering the subframe a bit (still a pain in the neck).
***Buy a reputable extended warranty unless you have super deep pockets!
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 6,453
From: CT
Rep Power: 439
- Take the VIN to Audi Dealer and ask really nice and have them pull all the records for you.
- Have a dealer or competent independent shop do a PPI on the car.
- Timing belt should have been replaced at least once already, at 35k miles. It is due again at 75k. (dealer charges ~$3500)
- Intercoolers typically leak, look through the front lower L&R grills and look for any blackening or oil residue on the intercooler corners. This is a dead giveaway of a leaky unit.
- Valve cover Gasket leaks are common, look close for seepage (Passenger side VC removal requires engine removal per Audi).
- DRC has been replaced so check it close again for leaks and measure the ride height F&R center of the hub to the fender arch (Spec is F=14 1/8" R=14 1/2") . There is a 1 yr/12k mile warranty on the DRC recall work.
- As said before, check the rotors and pads, rotors are ~$1300 for all 4, and pads are at least ~$300.
- Oil changes are every 5K and will be at least ~$120 if you DIY.
- Torque Converter and Trans are a weak point and stock power is at the limits of the TC/trans.
- Check the suspension close, look for torn boots, cracked bushings. Common failure items for a heavy, powerful car.
- Tires are ~$1200 a set, requires XL load tires due to its 2+ ton weight.
- EGT and Front O2 sensors require engine removal (per Audi), but can be done by lowering the subframe a bit (still a pain in the neck).
***Buy a reputable extended warranty unless you have super deep pockets!
- Have a dealer or competent independent shop do a PPI on the car.
- Timing belt should have been replaced at least once already, at 35k miles. It is due again at 75k. (dealer charges ~$3500)
- Intercoolers typically leak, look through the front lower L&R grills and look for any blackening or oil residue on the intercooler corners. This is a dead giveaway of a leaky unit.
- Valve cover Gasket leaks are common, look close for seepage (Passenger side VC removal requires engine removal per Audi).
- DRC has been replaced so check it close again for leaks and measure the ride height F&R center of the hub to the fender arch (Spec is F=14 1/8" R=14 1/2") . There is a 1 yr/12k mile warranty on the DRC recall work.
- As said before, check the rotors and pads, rotors are ~$1300 for all 4, and pads are at least ~$300.
- Oil changes are every 5K and will be at least ~$120 if you DIY.
- Torque Converter and Trans are a weak point and stock power is at the limits of the TC/trans.
- Check the suspension close, look for torn boots, cracked bushings. Common failure items for a heavy, powerful car.
- Tires are ~$1200 a set, requires XL load tires due to its 2+ ton weight.
- EGT and Front O2 sensors require engine removal (per Audi), but can be done by lowering the subframe a bit (still a pain in the neck).
***Buy a reputable extended warranty unless you have super deep pockets!
Really good points! I am going to look into it but i had a Audi dealer look at it and gave me the thumbs up!
Other then routine maintenance work thats what they rold me it needs.
A RS6 sold here locally with 24000 miles for 44k so this at 24 is a good deal especially for a 2004 and 1 of 90
Nice! Elp doing some work on so for you?
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7
From: Dallas
Rep Power: 0
I would also take it out for an extended test drive and drive it normal (ie; give it some hell), then hooked it up to a Vagcom and check for hidden DTC's.
Take it from me, my scan was clean when I bought it (Audi dealer scanned it on PPI), and 2 days after I got it home the CEL kicked on. I hooked up the Vagcom and a bunch of sensor issues popped up for no reason other than the ECU was reset recently, then me driving the car normally caused them to hit their DTC set points and show up.
Take it from me, my scan was clean when I bought it (Audi dealer scanned it on PPI), and 2 days after I got it home the CEL kicked on. I hooked up the Vagcom and a bunch of sensor issues popped up for no reason other than the ECU was reset recently, then me driving the car normally caused them to hit their DTC set points and show up.
Last edited by marklar182; Nov 12, 2010 at 07:19 AM.
I would also take it out for an extended test drive and drive it normal (ie; give it some hell), then hooked it up to a Vagcom and check for hidden DTC's.
Take it from me, my scan was clean when I bought it (Audi dealer scanned it on PPI), and 2 days after I got it home the CEL kicked on. I hooked up the Vagcom and a bunch of sensor issues popped up for no reason other than the ECU was reset recently, then me driving the car normally caused them to hit their DTC set points and show up.
Take it from me, my scan was clean when I bought it (Audi dealer scanned it on PPI), and 2 days after I got it home the CEL kicked on. I hooked up the Vagcom and a bunch of sensor issues popped up for no reason other than the ECU was reset recently, then me driving the car normally caused them to hit their DTC set points and show up.
i have been driving it around since Monday beating on it every chance i get. So far so good. ( hoping nothing else changes)
My wife even took it out yesterday and came back and said " Its Faster then my BMW! I like it" HAHAHA
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 19
From: Virginia
Rep Power: 0
Budget 3500 for suspension, 4000 for timing belt in a year or so, 2K for Torque converter and put 6500 in the bank for when the tranny goes. Otherwise, they are bullet proof. Love mine and had it since 2005.
Stephen
Stephen
Bumper to Bumper BABY!!!!!
Last edited by UrbanHotrod; Nov 15, 2010 at 02:14 PM.
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