**TT-RS**Project 750hp
#63
09-05-2012, 12:44 PM
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: London
Posts: 89
Rep Power: 16 
My valve caps melted my weights fell of and my rotors are gone, just two track days at High Plains Raceway, the rotors were vibrating from just hard street use. I have seen some new rotors from RB, does any one know if they are better than stock. I have herd the LOBA or Geax both make a good product but hard to get. I need to fix this now. After going of the fast end of the back staight at HPR into the weeds at MPH130, I have no faith that this car will stop when asked to. I'm afraid to drive it on the street, the brakes are that BAD! Already came with the cooling blade, does little or nothing. Are there better ducts made than the OEM units. Will changing the rotor make them run cooler? Do they need more air going through them? I have just done an APR remap on the ECU, now she piles the speed on even faster
but if the binders couldn't cope before how in the world are they going to deal with more TQ and HPS. The APR remap doesn't live up to the promises made. In Denver I was only able to Dyno at 325HPS and 380TQ. I should have put the car on the dyno in stock for for a better comp. Love the car. Drives better with a degree of negative camber up front, now it doesn't understeer so bad. The brakes are the big issue
. I would be greatful for any info or advice.
but if the binders couldn't cope before how in the world are they going to deal with more TQ and HPS. The APR remap doesn't live up to the promises made. In Denver I was only able to Dyno at 325HPS and 380TQ. I should have put the car on the dyno in stock for for a better comp. Love the car. Drives better with a degree of negative camber up front, now it doesn't understeer so bad. The brakes are the big issue. I would be greatful for any info or advice.Your power figure is probably down to the dyno btw, some dynos dont cope with high power haldex cars at all.
#65
09-13-2012, 09:13 AM
RaceBrake hat and rotor
Just took delivery of new hats and rotors for the tt rs. These were made by a company in california Race Brake or RB. Slotted rotors fit well front and two piece slotted for the rears. While installing the fronts were straight forward the rear was less so. Front calipers are easily retracted to accomodate new pads. The back must have some trick to them I'm yet to understand. How does one push the piston back on the rear calipers. I have already tried disconnecting the e brake cable and opening the bleed screw, piston still will not retract. Any help would be welcome. The air gap on the RB rotors is 18mm much larger than stock and much lighter about 8lbs front and 6lbs at the back, less unsprung weight, always a good thing. I am currently looking to extend the air flaps on the lower controle arms to direct more air to the wells. I am using 4" abs pipe cut to fit and epoxied in place. The air blades now extend down and forward about 1.75". Lets hope these changes will have a positive effect on the brakes on track days.Pictures comming soon.
#67
09-25-2012, 11:09 AM
So the new rotors work great. RB slotted rotors with some home made ducting for more air to the wheele wells and cool running, firm pedal, good brakes what a relief! The track Oregon Raceway Park, fantastic, great quality pavement, very technical, loved the half pipe. However there was one problem. Something has come loose in the front end. If the car is side loaded by turning the steering wheele quikly to the left it sounds like something heavy moving near the left front wheele. Then if you turn to the right fast the noise stops on the left but it then starts on the right sounding kinda like an ABS induced braking or speed sensor. My thinking is that the bushings are gone. Does anyone know of some aftermarket suspension bushings for the TTRS. Or if this is something that has happened to other ttrs on the track maybe some one can clue me in. The brake fix for the RB rotors and pads about $1200. Seems cheaper than some solutions I've seen.
#68
10-03-2012, 12:30 PM
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: London
Posts: 89
Rep Power: 16
Sounds great Harrison. I shall return to looking at the brakes once the car is back on the road.
Next immediate step right now is strengthning the gearbox.
So its being split open, and the gears will be superfinished.
The end results will look like this:
Next immediate step right now is strengthning the gearbox.
So its being split open, and the gears will be superfinished.
The end results will look like this:
#74
02-06-2013, 02:41 AM
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: London
Posts: 89
Rep Power: 16 I know a bit about the haldex controllers, specifically the differences between the switchable race and the competition controllers
#75
02-06-2013, 02:43 AM
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: London
Posts: 89
Rep Power: 16
UPDATE:
Only a few weeks away from completion now. Its been decided that my car will be running quite a big turbo. GTX35
Heres some pics.
The turbo is bigger than my mates meatball head lol.
Only a few weeks away from completion now. Its been decided that my car will be running quite a big turbo. GTX35
Heres some pics.
The turbo is bigger than my mates meatball head lol.