Year: 1993
Make: Mazda
Model: RX-7
Price: $19000
Mileage: 158000
Color: Black
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): NY
Transmission: Manual
Drivetrain: Rear Wheel Drive

Hi Everyone,

I just celebrated my 3 year anniversary of LS1 RX7 ownership and it's time for me to pass this amazing car along to someone who will drive and appreciate it. I live in NYC full time and would never bring my car down to the city based on what parking garages, the roads, and other drivers have done to my previous daily drivers. It's garaged full time in Orange County, NY; roughly 65 miles from NYC where it's safe from door dings, potholes, and professional thieves.

Like many, I did a lot of research on rotary FD's until I realized that good shops are hard to find and I didn't want to worry about the potentially expensive maintenance and repair bills. Then, I realized that I could afford an LS1 swapped FD for about the same price as a nicer rotary powered FD. I drove one and I was hooked. The instant torque, the sound, the handling; it's the complete package.

I wanted a turn key swapped car with a 6 speed trans, no accidents, specific color preferences, and NO sunroof because I'm 6'2" and because it's slightly lighter. I ended up purchasing Shakenbake's (Brad from Norotors) 3rd swap, a black on tan leather "upgraded" Base Model. It took me a couple of months to find this one and I ended up flying into Cincinnati, OH to pick it up and drive it back to NY. Here are the details from Brad when I purchased it:

93 Base FD with Metallic Black paint and tan leather
2002 WS6 LS1 motor and T-56 with 38k miles (currently has 48k miles approximately- roughly 10k miles since the swap)
Over 150k chassis miles (Original cluster stopped working & was replaced by Brad)
Clean Carfax- no accidents (I ran the Carfax, but left it in NYC)
Jimlab style subframe/made by the guy who scammed some people and they called him Deadbeat
Hinson Bumpsteer Kit (old school, welded one)
Hinson Transmission Mount
Hinson Driveshaft (almost positive)
Hinson Torque Arm
ABS works fine
New Power steering rack and stock-like power steering (Installed by ZeroLift AutoLab)
HP Tuners mail tune
Ported Throttle Body
LS6 Intake
Custom Cold Air Intake (filter sits in driverside bumper opening)
Dual 2.25" exhaust to a dual in/out muffler with dual tips
Ported oil pump (I believe Brad installed this, but hopefully he can correct me if I'm wrong)
Corvette Fuel Rail covers
Corvette Radiator
Taurus fans- 2 stage, low/high
Upgraded master cylinder
Upgraded clutch (he didn't know which one it was, but it's blue and grabs very well)
Rolled front fenders
Back Window tinted- 20%? (I removed the tint from the front because it wouldn't pass inspection. The front windows are not tinted)
New Metallic Black paint
New Black carpet
New Black hatch carpet
New Tan Leather seat covers
New center plastic console and a/c dash piece
New Redline shift boot
Evo-R Headlights- Dual 90mm
Aerocatch latches installed on hood because of broken hood latch (Installed by ZeroLift AutoLab)
Tein Circuit Master RE Coilovers
Hinson bumpsteer kit (old school welded one)
New brake rotors and pads
New Pioneer head unit with new speakers
13lb Odyssey battery in passenger bin
Royal Purple differential fluid
Recent Tune up & oil change right before I purchased it
I think Brad replaced some of the bushings, but not all of them
Original 93 non-reinforced wheels (I had already purchased Advans before I bought the car)
Dakota Digital was hooked up, but wasn't working when I test drove it and it only worked for a short period of time (still working on finding the right combo)
Compression #'s 175-180

Here's what I changed/upgraded and what it looks like now:


I've always wanted an R1, so that's the look I transformed the car into
Pettit Racing Trak Pro Stage II- 10/8kg Coilovers $1,299 + installation
Samberg Bumpsteer kit with rack spacers (had to have them milled down 1/4" to fit between the subframe) $265 + $25 milling + installation
New Rear wheel bearings $90 approx + installation
New front windshield with new molding In$urance
2 hi flow cats from Summit Racing $191.90 + $127.20 installation
Used stock hood $100
Used Hood release cable $25?
New Hood Nozzles $15.56 ea
New Defroster vents $56.12 (complete set)
New R1 lip $125.66
Used R1 rear spoiler $100
Used Pop Up Headlights $100?
New Pop Up Headlight covers $79.41 ea
Rotary Performance Quality Floor Mats Black $69.00 + $10 shipping
Westco Miata Battery- Lightest battery with highest CCA that fits in the rear bins without cutting them $138 + shipping and install
Upgraded battery terminal connectors - $10?
Used dash $250 + install
Used middle dash vent $30?
Used front reinforcement bar $50?
Used spare tire cover $15
New Sake Bomb Garage passenger interior aluminum handle $275? (first group buy) Installed on 6/30/12
New LS1 oil pan and gasket $270.03 + $217 install (I cracked the original on a rough patch of road which needed to be repaired, but there weren't any signs. Car was immediately turned off and towed to the shop. $$$)
Oil changed each year with full synthetic 5w30 each year $80/each
Paint/body work/install $975
Reinforced Hinson trans mount with steel plates to prevent the floorboard tearing as some have experienced
Soundproofing applied to the interior floor $50
New bumper turn signals $47.95
Used/good condition antenna $75
Used 18x10 CCW Classics 7.75" backspacing $2,000
Used Authentic JDM tail lights- $275
New Smoked front turn signals - $55
New 285x30x18 Sumitomo HTR ZIII tires + mounting $850 (They have approximately 2,000 miles on them)
New Locking lug nuts - Black from Summit Racing $50
New OEM Front license plate holder $
Used nicer condition tan visors - $40?
Street/track alignment 4/30/2011 as close to the recommended specs as possible $74.60

My butt dyno says roughly 300 hp/ 300 ft lbs of torque and the car should weigh about 2,800 lbs. It's a fun combination.

You'd think that the car would be perfect after this extensive list. I'm kind of a perfectionist, so I am being tough on my car when I rate it an 5-8 foot car. It's a nice driver which can and should be driven daily:
Exterior 7.5 (dings/scratches, moldings are worn, etc)
Interior 7.5 (passenger door handle, scratches on some parts, etc)

-Original tach died and Brad replaced it with a lower mileage one (shows up on the Carfax. Brad told me he drove this car for only 3-4 months and put between 6-7k miles on it. I think there was an error with the mileage calculation or the Dakota Digital had the new speedo pegged (I've seen it read over 120mph while I'm doing roughly 40mph). I used GPS and estimate I have put between 3-3,500 miles on the car as it's stored during the winter and only taken out every other weekend.
-The Dakota Digital speedo needs the kinks worked out. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't work.
-Very slight differential leak. No noticeable cracks or anything in the diff, just want to be honest. Had it up on the lift recently to inspect the car prior to selling.
-Some of the gaskets on the car are rough from being a TX car.
-A/C isn't hooked up: I have everything but the evap/lines
-CEL on & brake light are usually on, but all relevant sensors were hooked up. Car runs great.
-One of the stock FD wheels has a hairline crack and I drove over 600 miles on it back home without a problem. See pricing below for more info.
-Driver's side fender well liner was cut by Brad for the cold air intake
-Interior trans tunnel cover plastic is cracked in the middle from someone dropping the big elbow on it. This is a common problem on FDs. It's holding up for now and isn't completely obvious

This car is almost 20 years old, was purchased by Brad in Texas as a roller, hauled to OH, swapped, and driven to its current garage spot in NY. I drove it over 600 miles and wouldn't hesitate to drive it to California. This is a proven car built by a proven builder/forum member and upgraded by a 30 year old auto enthusiast. I have most of my receipts and some pictures from the original build.

I haven't launched the car, taken it to any type of rack track, or been abusive to it at all. I was building it with the intention of going road racing, but my schedule hasn't permitted. It was my affordable dream car and I have enjoyed 99% of the ride (minus the down time). I believe Brad took it to the track a couple of times and ran low 12's with it on 235/285 Nitto NT-05s. In my area, there are only a few RX7s and no other LS1 7s. When I take it to the mountains for some spirited driving, it breaks more necks than diving into the shallow end of a pool.

Engine Bay:

Interior (old pic- the a/c **** was missing, but has been replaced):

Metallic black Paint close up:

Exhaust:


Additional pictures are here: http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...%20For%20Sale/

Videos-The Gorillapod mount I have was moving around which is why the video isn't the best:
Driving my LS1 Swapped Mazda RX7 - YouTube
Driving my LS1 Swapped 1993 Mazda RX-7 through some turns
LS1 Swapped Mazda RX7

Asking Price:
$17,500 cash/cashier's check for the car WITHOUT the CCWs/JDM tail lights. Car would be sold with the stock FD wheels. I would buy a 4th stock wheel for you to replace the cracked one.
$19,000 cash/cashier's check for the car WITH the CCWs/JDM tail lights.

I'm not in a rush to sell and don't need the money, so this will not be a short sale like some of the other transactions on here. If you're serious, send me a serious offer and don't waste my time. Car is sold without a warranty, either express or written. I'd prefer to sell it with the CCWs and am NOT interested in parting it out or trading.

 

Bump!

 

SOLD in stock form on Saturday!

I still have the CCW wheels/Sumitomo tires & JDM tail lights for sale.

 

I'd throw them on rx7club.com