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I’m sure this has been covered, and I have searched for it, but came up empty. Any help is appreciated. The right rear window actuator gave out today so I called my local shop and they quoted me 5 hours labor plus parts. The removal of the rear seat and side panel is easy. Is there something that I am missing? I have to assume that there is much more to it. And while I consider myself pretty adept at repairs, am I better just paying for it? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the information, Rico! I sincerely appreciate it! So the motor should still be good but just need to be switched to the new actuator, right? Is it easy enough to get the window situated in the new actuator? Thanks again!
I could hear it when it first happened but then the noise stopped. The shop I spoke with said that was because the wires had basically tangled to the point to keep the motor from moving. Hopefully it isn’t seized. A video would be awesome if anybody has one. I googled, but no luck.
Indeed Mr Rico is right it is not a difficult job. The space is tight but doable.
When I first received my Bentley the left side rear window did not function. Upon removing the lift mechanism the drive cable that lifts the window was broken. Probably the reason for it snapping is one of the nylon sliders that is in the lift mechanism was disintegrated. The complete lift assembly was $1,500 new. Luckily, was able to find a vendor selling an upgraded cable repair kit. Then I made a new nylon slider to hold everything in alignment. Put everything together works great. Tested the passenger side rear window only to hear that cable break. The same situation existed there.
The reason I relate the story there's a possibility that the lift cable is tangled and jamming the actuator lift motor. Should this be the case the dealer is going to replace the whole lift mechanism. Even though the lift cable is available it is not a dealer item. I will post a link to the vendor selling the cable if that turns out to be the case.
Your welcome Roman, let me know how you get on ...
Okay, so I have everything taken apart and the wire had snapped. The motor is fine. Now, I was told by the same shop that the rebuild kits are no good and will break. The kit is $117 and the regulator is $900. How difficult is the rebuild process and does it require anything out of the ordinary?
Okay, so I have everything taken apart and the wire had snapped. The motor is fine. Now, I was told by the same shop that the rebuild kits are no good and will break. The kit is $117 and the regulator is $900. How difficult is the rebuild process and does it require anything out of the ordinary?
The rebuild kit is fine. In fact the material that the rebuild kit incorporates is superior to the OEM. The hardest part of the job is the new cable is under tension when it is installed. Somewhat tricky to get over the drive wheels. Since I did this job a while ago I don't remember how I eventually got the cable on. The other thing to look at is there are these white nylon sliders that are slightly curved and deteriorate thus falling off. On my unit they were the culprit of. breaking the cable causing misalignment.
The regulator has to come out of the car which means disconnecting the glass from the regulator. As I recalled the outside rubber window gaskets have to be removed where the window slides up. So when the window is disconnected from the regulator it can be removed through that opening. The glass fasteners are removed with some screws from inside the small opening from the back seat. This is the part that takes time and probably why the shop quoted five hours.
As you pass through the process probably best post pictures and questions, we'll figure it out. The shop like all businesses has to make money, they're not going to endorse a do-it-yourself project that costs $117 when they can charge $900 plus labor.
The good news is that I believe most of the cuts I sustained should heal without stitches. Be careful back there as a few pieces could double as razors, it would seem. I took the window glass off the regulator and left the glass inside the car as I saw no need to remove it. As for the repair versus replace, I am providing two pictures. The first will be the regulator out of my car. The second is the repair kit available on eBay. Unless the eBay listing is just a file photo I cannot possibly see how the two are the same. Also, if I repair, it looks like some items would have to be drilled out. Is that incorrect? I would love to hear from someone way more intelligent than myself. Thanks!
The good news is that I believe most of the cuts I sustained should heal without stitches. Be careful back there as a few pieces could double as razors, it would seem. I took the window glass off the regulator and left the glass inside the car as I saw no need to remove it. As for the repair versus replace, I am providing two pictures. The first will be the regulator out of my car. The second is the repair kit available on eBay. Unless the eBay listing is just a file photo I cannot possibly see how the two are the same. Also, if I repair, it looks like some items would have to be drilled out. Is that incorrect? I would love to hear from someone way more intelligent than myself. Thanks!
That is the correct kit. This is not an intuitive part. I've installed two units using the exact vendor. Since you've gone this far keep going. Become familiar with unit. On Bay look at used unit photographs.
I noticed one white nylon slider on top that looks good. There should be another one on the lower side. If this nylon piece is missing, can try to help you make a new one. The missing sliders cause the window to bind and then break the cable. There are two of these on the regulator. Also the guide wheel becomes convoluted and worn causing derailment. The replacement kit's guide wheel is a stronger material.
The two cables are shock absorbed by the springs in the little flat part. The cables wrap around the guide wheel in a specific order and the ends are tucked in the wheel. The regulator motor spools in either direction to open and close the window.
Last edited by 1eapplebaum; Sep 13, 2019 at 02:08 PM.
That is the correct kit. This is not an intuitive part. I've installed two units using the exact vendor. Since you've gone this far keep going. Become familiar with unit. On Bay look at used unit photographs.
I noticed one white nylon slider on top that looks good. There should be another one on the lower side. If this nylon piece is missing, can try to help you make a new one. The missing sliders cause the window to bind and then break the cable. There are two of these on the regulator. Also the guide wheel becomes convoluted and worn causing derailment. The replacement kit's guide wheel is a stronger material.
The two cables are shock absorbed by the springs in the little flat part. The cables wrap around the guide wheel in a specific order and the ends are tucked in the wheeel. The regulator motor spools in either direction to open and close the window.
That is the correct kit. This is not an intuitive part. I've installed two units using the exact vendor. Since you've gone this far keep going. Become familiar with unit. On Bay look at used unit photographs.
I noticed one white nylon slider on top that looks good. There should be another one on the lower side. If this nylon piece is missing, can try to help you make a new one. The missing sliders cause the window to bind and then break the cable. There are two of these on the regulator. Also the guide wheel becomes convoluted and worn causing derailment. The replacement kit's guide wheel is a stronger material.
The two cables are shock absorbed by the springs in the little flat part. The cables wrap around the guide wheel in a specific order and the ends are tucked in the wheel. The regulator motor spools in either direction to open and close the window.
Okay, so the regulator is rebuilt and I believe will work fine. I started to put everything back together and found three of the pictured pieces, along with three silver washers down in the bottom of the opening. I don’t remember seeing these when taking the car apart so they must be from somewhere behind. Any help is appreciated. I feel like I’m close and I just want my car back...🙁
The pictures I see are the nylon sliders I'm speaking about. They fall off. The washers are either part of the fastening of the sliders to your regulator or they are spacers for the glass to the regulator unit. Unfortunately it's been awhile since I had mine apart. There were miscellaneous bits that I found as well.
Post a photograph of those fasteners that might jog my or someone's memory.
Anyway good job takes a bit to figure it out.
Last edited by 1eapplebaum; Sep 18, 2019 at 07:08 PM.
