I have replaced them for €40 each with out a computer .
Heres how for the wrenching guys in pictures .
Jack mode and remove the wheel + axle stand it .


Slide the connection off it’s carrier behind the disk Unplug the plug it 4 spades the outer two run the EPB motor ,Connect the neg to the rhs and run the motor open

It takes 6/8 seconds to open do it with the calipers on so if it stops after 1 sec , you can reverse the polarity to open .




Std VAG sliders use a pair of spanner’s to remove the bolt ...upper

Lower .The damp is WD 40



Leaver the piston back to create slack / open the jaws .You can remove the cap of the brake fluid reservoir to assist the fluid moving ( not shown )

Bentley provides a handy place to dangle the caliper with a bit of wire ...so s not strain the brake line .

because the motors been backed off you can get a conventional piston retractor in to retract the piston .You may have to remove the “ Bentley “ decorative alloy name plate 4 x hex screws .The new disk will be thicker so this this is important.



Pads come out real easy just leaver them away

Pull the sliders out , they just unclip easy .

There is a alloy retaining screw to orientate the disk holes with the hub holes .It’s actually simply the wheel lugs that as well as holding the wheel on , hold the disk on .Theses were ceased and chewed up with any force .Even with an impact drive shown .



Drill the soft alloy head off .

Then the disk drops off .It’s small enough to manoeuvre out WITHOUT the need to remove the caliper carrier .

Drill out the remaining soft ally screw in the hub .



Clean up the hub , apply a thin layer of copper slip anti cease ( for the next guy ) It’s important you really wire brush it up so the new disk fits true .

Fit the new disk , apply copper slip to the ears on the pads . gently rotate then in .This is after cleaning up the sliders .Theses were in good condition after a clean .

Pad fitted .Outside has two areas where the caliper claw fits .


Now return the EPB motor simply reverse the polarity and hear it wind up for 8 secs or so. Then back it off for 1 sec because the hand brake was off before starting .

Finished disk all on with a slightly different retaining bolt a hex for next time with copper slip to mitigate it removal for the next guy .

So what I have done here by unplugging the EPB is fool the “ brain “ .
There are 4 spades .The two larger outside power the motor , and reversing polarity the direction .The two inner are smaller and they measure the voltage and are to do with the lights on the dash and switch I think ? Anyhow nothing to see with this method .
Then to test simply cycle the EPB switch a few times so the system learns the new thickness.

Here i replaced the pads as a dealer has already calibrated the thickness .I went on a test run deliberately hard breaking to re bed them back ...which they have done .The black paint on the rim of the new disk is wearing off so I know the pads are bedding .
Many will frown at this ....” always fit new pads “ but @ service they should remove , lub up the sliders and refit anyhow .

Theses pads were only 1/4 worn so 3/4 left .
Seems a waste to throw them .Realise others would though.

So as far as the “ brain “ is concerned its unaware what’s happened.

 

That's really helpful! Thanks.

I assume you are familiar with this kind of thing?

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/sealey-pp1-auto-probe-6-24v-SEAPP1?type=shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiA_Kz-BRAJEiwAhJNY77FOeWQNlU_tk0JhzugyFtc6oh-YSrL8O9-gRO4BswICqzivlebONBoCL9QQAvD_BwE

C

 

Not really .Just watched plenty of u tube vids .
Another way to back off the EPB is to remove the motor and wind it back .
If does not re seal from a water pov then it will knacker quickly.They are Audi A6 for £30 , but hassle .
The electric way is easier and quicker + less down side .Some use a 9 v batt , I just happen to have a spare 12 v ,
All the current is going down stream of the connection so the brain sees nothing it thinks the EPB is off while you fiddle with it .

I have done Brembo and Teves which do not need the caliper removal like theses VAG clasp / claw calipers on sliders at the rear and float on hooks at the front .
So the rear is just two bolts to undo + the disk retaining screw to get out .
Fronts are four bolts the calipers and the retainer bolts .+ the disk retaining screw which my need drilling ....it’s a soft alloy anyhow .

Its all normal VAG brake parts .
Notice the rear calipers have VW and Audi rings logos on !!
The cheapest on e bay with autodoc were as low as €26 ....no kidding ! So I went for a mid level price .

 

So on any Bentley there is an electric motor that has to be backed off in order to retract the piston all the way?

 

Only ones with Electronic Parking Brake , EPB .Which the Continental ( flying spur ) GT are fitted with .
Suspect all VAG Bentleys .
The suspension , drive train and brakes are from the wider VAG parts bin(s) , with the exception of the front rotors they are indeed unique to Bentley .There calipers/ pads are shared and the whole rear brakes shared .Sharing increases volumes and lowers prices .
eg the EPB motor on the rears are from Bentley £130+ vat and are identical cross parts totally interchangeable with the Audi A6 @£30 inc vat .

If you look carefully at the caliper pics you can see Audi rings and the VW logo stamped on the caliper casting , they can’t even be bothered to request the subcontractor/ manufacture to put the B wings on .
Its the same with a lot of out of sight parts ,The control arms for the suspension all have the Audi four rings stamped on .
Not complaining , it’s a good thing .

 

Great write-up @John Fiammetta !
Rep added !

Johnny

 

Of course! Thanks for the write up and pictures.

 

Really useful for exactly that kind of job (and many others) as you can easily apply 12v or ground to any component.

Just a thought for the future is all

C

 

Hi - I've just had my calipers repainted and then have put my 2007 GT in to my Indy for rear pads - and they've said I need a new rear left caliper.

Mindful of your excellent advice on this thread I've been looking for a replacement VAG part that won't break the bank at this time of year as my Indy quoted £750 +20% VAT for a replacement part so advised me to source my own. I'm having difficulty finding the equivalent calipers - would you have the AutoDoc link still to hand or could point me in the right direction with other VAG parts suppliers?

I found a remanufactured Bentley OEM part on eBay UK which looks nice and could be painted red to match my livery, but I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right parts - link below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-BENTLEY-CONTINENTAL-43mm-Rear-LEFT-TRW-electric-brake-caliper-EPB-EXCHAN/174363078180?epid=28011091288&hash=item2898d96e24: g:JGEAAOSwEbBfHIOR

Looking closely at this part it seems to have the four rings of Audi stamped on it too !

Here are a few pics of before and after my caliper painting if of interest to members generally - done at a very reasonable price in the South UK.

Thanks and enjoyed reading this thread - so useful.

MT

 

 

Found this ,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112679860605

Your rears have they got the rear covers with the logo s ?
I think they fix with the four Allen heads ? ( fronts use a spring clip you can see it in your pics )
Your link inc the guarantee so feels better .

Flying spares do a rebuild kit ? Now seals + dust cover £40 .Interesting to know what went wrong with the re paint ? Rears are very simple single piston .

 

So to suggest a new caliper by your Indy .

The The dust covers may have detached and water ceases the retaining bolts which are a hex internal .Unlikely
Piston ceased ? Unlikely.There are rebuild kits .
The sliders tight ? Can be re greased with silicone and freed up .
They have snapped the bleed nipple off , last guy over tightened it when doing a fluid change .

If there was a leak you would have noticed the fluid dropping in the reservoir and dash light to say so .


Have you noticed anything ?

 

Everything John F said,
Plus, or is just the electric parking brake motor bad ?
Where are the rear caliper outer "Bentley"
covers ?

Johnny

.

 

Thanks both - much appreciated - as ever.

My rear calipers don't have the Bentley stamp on them.....

My Indy's precise words were :

"The NSR brake caliper is seized, it will not wind back, requires a new one"

They are not Bentley specialists but have very good general technical competence, a very good workshop, and have fixed some key issues in the last couple of months without taking £/$ advantage - we're both forging a longer term relationship. In connection with the comment above and their offer to source a £750 Bentley part they know I like to problem solve and are happy to fit the parts I have sourced myself recently - so advised me to find the part myself to save costs.

John - addressing your questions, for which thanks,

The repaint - I hadn't, in my mind, connected the sand down and repaint work with causing the problem with the caliper. It was done by a mobile guy I found on eBay UK on a same day service on my driveway, but he took great pride in his work and in prior communications went to great lengths to confirm the finish and the paint colours I could request. I just put the timing down to one of those maintenance items I'm working through that need attention after 13 years on the road and 90,000 miles on my GT.

Thanks for the positive comments on the e bay link- which is the front runner at the moment.

I haven't noticed any braking performance issues at all period in the last 18 months.

Johnny - will pass your comment on - thank you.

As always much appreciated.

MT

 

I'm a little concerned about that eBay link to a one man band operating from home.
Have you heard of Bigg Red ( http://www.biggred.co.uk) who supply overhaul kits, or will do a complete caliper refurb?
Similarly, I've had excellent refurb results from Contract Auto Engineering whose website http://www.classiccar-brakes.co.uk/ doesn't do them justice.
Also, BCS https://www.bcs-automotive.co.uk/ are very helpful when it comes to rebuilds.

When you say that the "caliper is seized", do you know whether your garage has tried unbolting the motor and turning the caliper by hand with a torx bit?

If you want to (free of charge) borrow to try out a noisy but functional, replacement motor, then there's one in a drawer in my garage - I'm in north west Hampshire.