hi am Basil by name from Nigeria I need a answer or suggestions , about my Bentley 2012 Bentley refuse to start but the two batteries are new, I even try the emergency start but nothing comes up no crank from the key or the push start bottom what ,all the fuse is okay but the windows won't close
Please anybody with similar issue should help me out

 

You need power to go through the start button (and key switch) and make sure the brake switch is working also. After those you need to make sure power is getting to the starter and your grounds are good.

 

Has the KESSY box under the passenger foot rear got a soaking / wet ?
Have you checked the scuttle drain , drains ?

 

NEWBIE HERE!
I think this is the closet Topic to what I need to ask. I am in the same issue. 07 Bentley CT GT Diamond Series wont start. I am very very new to it, but this has always been my dream car. So I was able to pick one up at the auction. So dont really know the history of it. But all electronics work, except that it wont start and sits practically on the tires. Troubleshooting it, I get voltage to and through the starter relay, all across the wiring through the car. My question is: where is the easist point to determine if it reaches the starter? Ive read enough to know that replacing the starter is a huge undertaking, so I want to make sure I troubleshoot this correctly before I haul it to a repair shop to spend 4500.00 in labor.
2nd question is: Can the car be raised to normal levels without it starting? I have not attempted to troubleshoot that as yet, since I am thinking that it needs to be running to engage the air system. Correct me if I am wrong.
3rd and last. I have an Autel 808BT but I cant do any programming to the car with it and I know I would need to at some point What is reccomended as the best tool for that purpose? Well not the best, but reasonable. .
I look forward to being an avid contributor to this forum as I go throught the years unerstanding and discovering new things about it.
Thanks Guys.
p.s.I live in S, Florida, so if anyone knows where I can reasonable get the starter replaced (in the event that this is the issue) please dont hesistate to reach out.

 

Hello @skyeyes ,
Please give us some more information, such as which type of auction vehicle is this, what is the main damage if any, clear title, if you do not want discuss here, you can pm me the VIN so I can search for history for possible causes of you problems.

Tell us if you replaced or tested both batteries, the house battery and the starter battery, and that both have proper voltage in the 13.2 volts range.

With proper power supply the suspension should lift without the engine running, it does with mine.

Have you popped the cover off of the starter relay in the trunk left side, so you can press the relay contacts closed, if so, do you get any click at the starter ?

The starter main lead (large cable) from the starter battery is always hot to the starter solenoid which is on the starter itself, there is a junction for the starter main lead along with the heavy alternator charging cable at the firewall as pictured, the small wire which runs from the starter relay to the starter solenoid has a connection at the passenger right front side, it is a single wire plug, and the wire is white with a yellow stripe, it is where I applied 12 volt positive to crank over the engines to do compression test prior to installing the engine, there is a plastic cover you can remove to gain access to the two studs/nuts to test for voltage.

Have you checked the pyrotechnic connection on the starter battery ?

Do you have proper original key-fob ?

I can get better pictures of the white/yellow solenoid wire at the front Thursday or Friday.

The proper scan tool would be the Ross-Tech VCDS.

https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS/

Johnny

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Thanks for such a quick reply Johnny. Will PM you the info.
Tell us if you replaced or tested both batteries, the house battery and the starter battery, and that both have proper voltage in the 13.2 volts range.
I replaced both batteries when I got the car. Followed the battery replacment process. It had 2 regular batteries in it, But I replaced with an AGM and lead battery.

With proper power supply the suspension should lift without the engine running, it does with mine.
Ok. Thanks. Then I guess my next step it to troubleshoot why it isnt lifting.

Have you popped the cover off of the starter relay in the trunk left side, so you can press the relay contacts closed, if so, do you get any click at the starter ?
Yes I did. I press the relay closed and it sends the 12v all the way through the car (white wire with red stripe). Also shoots 12v when I use the key and ignition switch.

The starter main lead (large cable) from the starter battery is always hot to the starter solenoid which is on the starter itself, there is a junction for the starter main lead along with the heavy alternator charging cable at the firewall as pictured, the small wire which runs from the starter relay to the starter solenoid has a connection at the passenger right front side, it is a single wire plug, and the wire is white with a yellow stripe, it is where I applied 12 volt positive to crank over the engines to do compression test prior to installing the engine, there is a plastic cover you can remove to gain access to the two studs/nuts to test for voltage.
Tomorrow, I will troubleshoot from the single wire plug (white with yellow stripe.) The wire coming from the starter relay was white with a red stripe. Does it change somewhere down the line?

Have you checked the pyrotechnic connection on the starter battery ?
No I have not. I will do so tomorrow. How is it checked?

Do you have proper original key-fob ?
Luckily I do.

 

@skyeyes ,
My response in red above, plus.

Have you tried the emergency starter procedure by turning the ignition key to the left for a few seconds, then to the right to start, the emergency start procedure puts both batteries into parallel .

Johnny

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So today I did some more troubleshooting. Pyro is good. Looks ike the whole cable is brand new.

This is the relay to the starter(433 without cover.) 12V carries across to starter connection at the front of car below the Right horn. See next pictures
So 12V goes through a White with Red stripped wire all the way to the front of my Bentley t the connection below.


This is where I traced the connection to all the way from the Starter relay, ( see white with red stripe wire).
So with my multimeter, I inject right on this wire and when the car is started it sends 12V along this wire and drops out.
So I disconnected the connector and tried to send 12V to the starter directly and it drop all the way down. Next step was to measure the resistance at the connector going to the starter. See next picture.


Measuring the resistance at the connector with my Multimeter, I read 2.6 OHMs. Tells me there is a short somewhere between this line and the Starter? Or is it possible that when the starter goes bad thats what happens?

Did I do this correct? Am I on the right path? And if I am, any ideas that you guys can share? Im thinking that maybe the starter is bad or the wire is shorting somewhere from this point to the starter?

 

Hello @skyeyes ,
A few things, first, please do not use visitor messaging, please use PM = private message if you want to send or ask me questions, or just post the questions here in the thread so all may help and learn, I understand the VIN being sent in PM, but you sent it in visitor messaging for all to see, I will delete it.

Now as to the vehicle, did you try the emergency start procedure, did you test for voltage at the block connection I showed in pictures of the two studs and nuts for starter and alternator ?

I understand that you have voltage from the starter relay to the white with red stripe starter solenoid wire at the passenger front wheel well area, but what about the main power for the starter, the two connection blocks I described above ?

As to your visitor message about removing the starter without removing the engine method, I have no idea what method you are referring to, I have not heard of any, the engine transmission package must be dropped, the turbo must be removed to gain access to remove the starter.


As to the condition of the vehicle, with all that gray film covering the horns and other areas, such as the fuse box in the trunk, is this a water damage vehicle, I ask because when I searched for the vehicle, I found it at auction when it was blue with no description of damage and it's front bumper hanging off, but at least the bumper was there, and that bumper damage was most likely caused by the people at copart themselves, why do I say this, I have seen it before with copart listings, and I very recently ran into a simular situation when looking for my engine transmission package, I found a package at a salvage yard in Michigan, and I inquired for some information and requested the VIN of the donor vehicle, I took the VIN and found the Flying Spur at Copart as a flood car on a certain date, with slight body damage on the front bumper, and had it's true mileage as shown on the odometer in the Instrument cluster, WELL, I also found that same Flying Spur with matching VIN, exact mileage, color, etc, as it was the same exact vehicle, except now it was listed as front end, and under carriage damage, now with the front bumper destroyed and the engine pan broken away, along with a bent power steering pump pulley, I questioned the seller as to the flood damage, he denied it, or any knowledge, I then sent him the two Copart listings as found on Google and he was shocked, it seems someone pulled a fast one, the Flying Spur actually looks like someone dropped it off of the forklift, as it was very strange way the damage occurred, but basically the first auction ended as a flood car unsold, then re-listed within months as a front end under carriage damage vehicle with the same exact mileage as it was when listed as a flood.

The seller who wanted $8K just for the engine, later sent me offers at $2800. I passed ofcourse, and now it appears that the seller has broken the engine down for parts.

I say all this from my own experience rebuilding my Hurricane Sandy vehicle, so the more you and the rest of us know about your vehicle, the more we can help.

If my searching is correct, you have a 1 of 400 Diamond Series with those beautiful brakes !

EDIT: When you applied the 12 volts to the starter solenoid wire, did you get any click or clunk at all, does everything else inside work, complete Instrument cluster, radio, blower motor, etc, and for outside, all headlights, tail lights, brake lights, horns ?


EDIT 2: Just a note, the mileage you have is nothing for these starters, my other W12 A8L has over 200k on the original.
Johnny

 

JHG,
Thanks so much for the info. I did question myself as to the posting in the visitor message to you, but still did anyway. Please delete.

Now as to the vehicle, did you try the emergency start procedure, did you test for voltage at the block connection I showed in pictures of the two studs and nuts for starter and alternator ?
Yes, I did try the emergency procedure. Actually, its one of the things I did prior to finding this forum. But it also does not work. I do have both voltages at the studs near the firewall. One for Alternator and the other to the battery.

I understand that you have voltage from the starter relay to the white with red stripe starter solenoid wire at the passenger front wheel well area, but what about the main power for the starter, the two connection blocks I described above ?
There is constant voltage there. What I find puzzling is the low resistance at the connector near the horn. 2.6 Ohms. What do you think about that?
what happens there if I inject 12 volts to it and monitor it, it drops immediately all the way to zero on the meter. This would normally happen if a short existed.

As to your visitor message about removing the starter without removing the engine method, I have no idea what method you are referring to, I have not heard of any, the engine transmission package must be dropped, the turbo must be removed to gain access to remove the starter.
I found that procedure on vw vortex forum. Stated that rather than moving the whole engine and tranny there was another method which was easier. 16 step process, starting with disconnecting the batteries and ending with removing retainer for coolant ad engine oil lines. Has anyone else seen it?

I love this forum as there seems to be so much info on theses cars and the beat enthusiast and experts reside here. I sure hope I can give some great input as I venture on with mine.
But i guess at this point I may need to do someone to do the starter replacement for me.
I found 2006 Bentley Starter on eBay. Paid 45.00 for it. Got it yesterday and it looks very clean and tested out great! . But then I thought about it and decided why put in a used starter that I don't know its history? I think I will fork out the cash for a new one.
Any ideas or suggestions?

 

Forgot to reply. What you see on the horns i plenty dust. car is very dusty. Front bumper was destroyed in an accident. Had front end damage. Once i'm done with all the electronics, Ill be slowly redoing the exterior

 

@skyeyes ,
I am going to over to my B in about an hour or 2, maybe a bit longer, but today 🙃, I will double check that white yellow vs white red wire, as you can see in my picture below, I have both... confused at this moment, maybe the vehicle side is red, and the starter side is yellow, meaning on each side of the plugs connection.

As far as the VW sinkhole site 😀, I do not believe that they are talking in reference to a twin turbo W12, but do post the link if you have it.

Here are some of my pictures reassembling my engine transmission package, you can see how buried the starter is behind the engine mount and turbo chargers along with the wastegate diaphragm, it's not coming out without dropping the package and removing the turbo and engine mount.

As far as time, when I took my engine out 5+ years ago, I did it on a Saturday or Sunday afternoon with floor jacks, blocks, wood, and a cherry picker (engine hoist), it was my first time with a Bentley and I recall correctly it took me about 7 hours to drop it, (you can see my rebuild thread for all my information,) now over 5 years later putting the Supersports engine transmission package in took me 5 hours and 45 minutes, mind you, I do not do this everyday, this is my personal vehicle and hobby, the key is lots of pictures, and putting each section of nuts and bolts, etc in it's own storage jar bowl box and label clearly, as all my bowls and jars sat for 5 + years, thankfully my memory is still intact, but if you are good with puzzles you will be fine if you choose to tackle it yourself, and we are here for guidance.

Here are the pictures of the starter.
Yes, I love pictures

Johnny

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Here is the link to the starter replacement: I guess the Phaeton setup on the W12 is different to the Bentley?
https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/w12...ement.5920961/

 

Correct, it is different, as the Pheaton does not have turbos.

Johnny

 

Hello @skyeyes ,
As far as a recommendation for service, I have nothing in Florida for you, but, Jason Giannetti is the first person I would recommend for any Bentley service needs, members here on 6SPEED have used his services when he was on Long Island, myself included, if just to share our knowledge and a visit, he has now relocated to North Carolina, 600 miles+/- for you, I just spoke with Jason today, and he is still 30-45 days from his new shop opening, as far as the drop engine/transmission package and lines replacement cost goes, it was 4500-5000, and I would 100% recommend that you have all the plastic vacuum lines along the firewall replaced with the metal lines that Jason makes at the time of drop to replace the starter, the other items to consider changing at that time would be all four O2 sensors, and to check the cooling hoses/pipe at the rear of the engine.

I sure you don't want to wait another month or so, but he is the only person that I personally know closest to you.

Johnny