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Sorry for the late response, but have either of you fixed this issue ?
Just a thought, being that you both had your vehicles shipped, is the any chance as to any damage to any of the four level sensors or rods, I had the guy that shipped my A8L W12 from California to New Jersey damage one of the sensors and rod on the front end, he cranked the body down so far somehow, the vehicle was slammed though, so, just wondering if a sensor mounting bracket or such might be out of place.
Hi Johnny. My car was shipped to me in June of 2022. And everything was fine until about a month ago. Yesterday, I went 85 or 90, and it said normal level reached, Which it actually was at its normal level when I checked after the drive. But most probably in a couple days, it will say Jack mode again. Whatever mode it’s in, all four sides are relatively leveled.
Ok mine has been fixed. I thought that it may have been related to bad rear level sensors, and was ready to replace them, but it looks like it may be a software bug that worked itself out. Dis you ever scan your car?
I spent so much time testing the system - by getting to 80mph then stopping, and looking for the Level fault warning, I never kept going. After I continued past 80 a few times, I saw the car lowered normally. The other thing I was doing was driving around in HIGH mode. i would frequently start the car and get the JACK MODE error. The last week, I left the car in NORMAL height, put it in HIGH, then drove to well past 80, then left it NORMAL height again. It's been 3 days and no jack mode or level faults YET.
I do think my case was related to the car being shipped on a boat, had a low battery then never really got driven through the paces. Either way, when I scanned the car the only fault error, I had was an out of range one which I cleared, and had not seen again.
The same thing happened to me about a month ago. I drove the car in high mode, and took it over 80, and the car lowered normally. It stayed lowered without a jack mode or level fault message for a good couple days, and then it was back. Now the car is still in high mode, and occasionally says jack mode when started.
Today I had to use the high mode to park in a farm upcountry. Everything worked as it should! I noticed that the car lowers when you open the door? Is this normal?
I think that she was sitting lower than I have noted in the past when parked. Is it possible that high mode locks to the height even when parked, but normal will go even lower? (Kinda like Range rover Access Mode)
Last edited by ttpopo; Jun 7, 2024 at 10:05 PM.
Reason: edit
For me, the car stays in high mode even when the car is off and parked. Sometimes I can hear it lowering, but it’s not a significant amount. I think it just levels back all four sides, but the car would still be in high mode.
Do you have any updates? For me, I haven’t seen the message in over a month, and the car is just in high mode. I haven’t crossed 80 mph or tried to lower it.
@Dgeedhar Yeah I had scanned mine previously and got no codes. Recently the issue came back (as you said). It seems that when the car is left in HIGH mode, it has issues. If i leave it in NORMAL, its fine. I was in Europe for a month...and left the car in HIGH mode. When I came back, the issue was back, and even a bit worse as I got the running gear fault as well. I think the running gear fault is related to different levels at both axles (high/normal)
So, I went to scan the car and this time got the 01400 code which is "upper limit exceeded". I did a bit of digging around in the ross-tech forums and found that a similar thing happen on Toureg/Q7. Theres a small valve that can fail - and prevent air from leaving - causing the corner to stay elevated.
Ok, so I had a HUGE AHA moment with VCDS today. Not only was I able to read more codes, but i think i really diagnosed the issue. I was able to go into the auto calibration and basic level setting mode. VCDS really is a necessary tool if you own a Bentley.
I ran an auto- calibration. The fronts dropped, but the rears did not. I got a new error - as the car was not able to be calibrated, so now i Have the 01437 (CALIBRATION NOT DONE/INCOMPLETE).
The fact that the rears did not drop further clued in my suspicions.
Then I ran the basic settings to see if I could BLEED the rear and raise the front - so the car would not look like a top fuel drag car.
The fronts charged, but the rears STILL would not drop. When I issues the bleed command, I can hear the PssssSSSSHHHHHH of some gas leaving. It reads as low as .67 bar and says "BLEEDING" - but the rear axle does actually seem to bleed - as the height does not drop whatsoever.
The fact that BOTH Axles stay elevated makes me think that its the air suspension solenoid block valve and NOT the individual ones.
Hello @ttpopo ,
I have read through your comments, am I to understand that when you command the rears to bleed, that you infact hear the air being released, but both struts stay elevated, if so, have you removed both lines either at the valve block, or at each rear strut itself, that would be my next move, but ofcourse have a flood jack in place to hold the vehicle up as you remove said air line from each rear strut, then lower the jack, if the vehicle fails to lower, then I would remove the residual valve from each rear strut one at a time as we discussed earlier, as my thinking is, if you remove the airlines, then the residual valves, and the vehicle fails to lower, than it may be possible that somehow either strut has gotten stuck in the fully extended position, with both rear lines and residual valves removed, the vehicle should fall to the ground, if not, one strut may be holding the rear up, so, I would attempt to jack either lower control arm suspension up on either side to look for any free movement, one side may likely be a jammed strut, somebody had this on a "remanufactured" front strut some time back on AW.
