I now have approx 35,000 miles on my diesel and have done all but the first oil change every 5,000 miles. I do it with an extractor and always measure the oil remaining to be maybe 1/4 of a quart. Doing the oil change so often, I believe the small amount of oil remaining is no problem.

 

That's a horrible amount left in my opinion and far from a "small amount"

The issue isn't the old oil itself, it's the junk that is accumulating at the bottom of the engine that is not coming out with each change.

I have been waffling and considering going the extraction route. Thank you for reminding me why I think its a bad idea before I spent money on the tool.

Yeah it doesn't matter if you don't intended to keep a car long term, but for those of us that want to or those that buy used that left over "oil" represents significant potential pain down the road.

 

Don't interpret my under-the-car preference as disapproval of the extraction method. After all, many dealers use it. I just had the misfortune of buying a ****-poor extractor. I've reinvented the wheel enough times in my life to realize when I made a mistake

Consider however how much engine killing content your extractor leaves in the bottom of the pan. The sludge that would otherwise flow out with the hot used oil. Sitting there, just waiting to contaminate the next batch of fresh stuff that rains down from above

//greg//

 

I use an extractor like this I bought from Northern Tools. It works very well. One handy thing is to extract as much oil with it as you can and very little mess when you pull the plug if you still desire the plug out. I used it on a Friends Explorer this weekend just to make the job cleaner before pulling the plug.

 

I got the Chinese knock-off of that same extractor design. It sucks (the Chinese version). Where you have a black exhaust filter, I have a crappy set of brass fittings that spits oil everywhere. I think that's why it pulls far less vacuum than advertised, which is also likely why it can't draw out the last two quarts of oil. My fault, I simply got what I paid for. Cut rate crap.


//greg//

 

Did my 3rd OCI tonight. Glad I documented the first

Oil went everywhere. Then the cheap POS pan I got decided that the drain cap wasn't meant to actually hold oil in. I lost a grommet from the engine cover too

Also found signs of a light leak where the transmission meets the engine. This is mentioned by someone else on renntech last month, so you might want to make sure yours gets looked at too. I'll call my dealer tomorrow to get them to take a look.

 

has anyone used the F106 value long enough to see if they "clog"? with as dirty as diesel oil gets, i was wondering if there were any issues of dirt stopping the flow?

 

Greg "Fumoto unfortunately doesn't make one, so I'm currently shopping elsewhere for a 14x1.5mm 90 degree adapter. Oh, and I personally pointed out to a US Fumoto rep that the 18mm diameter their website shows for the Cayenne diesel is wrong. They'll be correcting it to a 14x1.5mm"

I hope you can get enough room to turn a 90 if you find one. I had bought said Fumoto but when I got to the installing I was really scratching my head on how to plumb it out far enough to make a turn. The way Porsche placed that plug location is so poor given that you can not miss the cross frame.

 

i bought the spacer ADL106 which should clear the valve past the cross member. it screws into the oil pan and then the f106 screws into it. i haven't rec'd the items yet and will let you know for sure.

 

My threads started, but barely. I can see how even a millimeter difference in how the silver crossmember is bolted in can make a difference. But I didn't wait for the 90 degree extension, opting for the ADL-106 instead. Gotta use Teflon tape though, since that's the easiest way to seal both components - while still leaving the valve release tab in an accessible position. Vary the amount of tape on the threads to get everything situated where it's easiest for you to access.

//greg//

 

At 19k I got a coolant smell in the cabin after idling awhile (no wet floors to indicate a heater core issue) and a few days later I got a low coolant warning on the MFD.

The coolant in the reservoir still looked like there was plenty, but it was right at the end of two metal pins that I assume is the level sensor. I also noticed the power steering fluid was low as well.

Had the dealer take a look and it is surviving a multi-hour pressure test just fine. They say that toping off both the coolant and PS fluid is part of the OCI (not in the PIWIS documentation it's not...).

So double check your levels with your oil changes and be prepared to top off as needed.

 

Completed my first oil change. 2014 Diesel with 4300 miles. Observations.

- Wow that filter stank. I've owned many a Porsche, performed many oil changes. This is my first Diesel though.
- I used my extractor. Hadn't been able to use it since my E350. Once I got the tube past the baffle it worked great. It pulled out just under 8 liters. Interesting because my manual says it takes 7.3 (including filter).
- I then got under the car and pulled the plug. Nothing came out but a few drips.

I guessing some would say since I didn't have any oil left to have a good flow thus it couldn't get the gunk out. I've done a lot of reading about this 'gunk' left behind and why many recommend draining. Here is my question though and I never saw it mentioned. What is the oil filter for if not to catch this 'gunk' that will get back in the system if it isn't drained by pulling the plug? Isn't that the purpose of the filter?

I know my dealer says they drain. I have even seen post from the Porsche mechanics manual that now says to drain. I think it even referenced that extraction could leave the bad reside behind. I have another theory, Porsche is covering its butt. They don't want to take a chance of an owner or an intern mechanic in the shop not getting the extraction tube all the way to the bottom. It is easy to hit the baffle and miss a whole lot of oil. Probably a crazy theory but it wouldn't surprise me .

Oh I also topped off the AdBlue. It took maybe 1.2 gal. I was surprised, maybe the diesel around here isn't as bad at I thought.

 

You are correct that the concern is that the extraction method has a higher risk of leaving sludge.

The filter doesn't catch the sludge that we are concerned about here as it is the dirty oil that settles and cakes at the bottom of the pan. Think of it like your blood system and how plaque can build up. Much like the plaque the real risk is that bits can break free and then cause damage.

What isn't talked about, however, is that as long as the oil is changed properly (oil is hot, short intervals, all the oil is removed) the risk is pretty low. Your driving habits (e.g. Lots of short trips that don't get the oil up to temp) also play a big role in the risk as well.

Draining still carries all these same risks, but it seems that it is much easier for someone in a rush or inexperienced to mess up the extraction method.

As long as it works for you and you get out what you put in, go for it.

 

gnat - makes sense. I thought that might be it. Gunk that the pump doesn't pullup because it is stuck to the pan or just too darn dense and sticky.

I'll be changing my oil a lot and it was very hot so I should be in good shape. I do the complete process via draining on the 3 change.

Appreciate your feedback.

 

I found a thread that CHF 202 PS fluid is needed to top it off on a 2006. Is that what they used on your 13 CD? I got a PSM failure, ABS failure, fault electric parking brake, and fault steering lock in the MF display and the PS fluid didn't register on the dipstick.