Clay: Friend or Foe?
MoeTip 10-7-07: Clay - Friend or Foe?
“Don’t even think about using clay; it will remove you clear coat if you don’t know what you’re doing. Besides, it should be left to the pros”. I cannot tell you how many clients were told this line by a “professional” detailer. So what is this mysterious substance that looks and feels like Silly Putty? What could it possibly do to automotive paint? Simply put, clay is a plastic embedded with either quartz or chalcedony crystals. Clay is used in aiding with the prep work prior to polishing and waxing. You must first truly clean the paint to remove embedded contaminants such as acid rain deposits, oxidation, salt from the air, etc. to have a clean surface for the polish and wax to be applied. Once the surface is clean and free from the above mentioned impurities, you can apply a polish, which further cleans the paint and rejuvenates the surface, and finally wax, which protects the work you've just done.
“Acid rain, road silt and fallout are the enemy of paint. Water and soap wash away the loose particles but not the embedded pollution. The sun acts as a catalyst to help these paint-toxic pollutants penetrate and destroy your paint. Clay removes marring and soils through microscopic polishing and cleaning without harm to new or old paintwork.” (www.zymol.com)
You should not be afraid to use clay. Claying is very simple provided you use a high quality clay. There are several grades of clay; always go with the least aggressive to get the job done. The safest clays currently on the market are Sonus Extra-Fine clay, Zymol Lehm Klay2, and Clay Magic Blue. Next you need to find out the aggressiveness of the clay you're using. There's nothing wrong with using an aggressive clay if you're going to machine polish later. However, to be safe, you want to use a fine grade as to not further scratch the finish. I use Zymol Lehm Klay 2; it's not aggressive and is natural. Keep in mind, you're going to use more effort when using a mild grit of clay, but it's better in my opinion. Next, whatever manufacturer of clay you use, use their lube. I know lots of guys just use soap and water or a quick detailer type product, but I'm a firm believer in using what the manufacturer intended. I will say this though; most clay lubes don’t lubricate enough. I always add a little soap to my lube, 1/2 teaspoon is plenty for a 12oz bottle.
Next, make sure the finish is clean; by that I mean washed. Dry using waffle weave towel or Airmax, forced filtered air dryer. And we’re now ready to clay. Apply a generous amount of lube and start rubbing the clay back and forth in linear motion; never go in circular motion as this will cause swirls. You should hear and feel the contaminants in your paint. Once it's quiet and you don't feel anything, go over the same area in the opposite direction. For example, if you started claying away and toward you, you want to finish up rubbing right and left from you. Do this to the whole car and then rinse off the car and dry again. If you drop the clay, discard it and use a new piece. That’s why I split my clay bar into three sections. And to clean the clay while you’re rubbing, just fold it into itself and you’ll see the original clay color come back. Now, was that as hard as you thought? And guess what, you’re clear coat is still there
Clay can be used in many ways:
· You can use clay to remove tar from the road. If the tar is small splatters here and there and it's already dry, try clay first.
· If you have brake-dust buildup on the wheels and washing is not effective, clay the wheels.
· You can also clay windows to remove road grime buildup and tree sap.
I’m often asked, “Does claying remove the wax? In other words, if I clay a small area of my car, do I have to apply wax to it afterwards or just a quick wipe with a detail spray?” It depends on the wax. If a polymer like Rejex that actually molecularly bonds to the clear, then no, claying will not remove the polymer wax. You need a product to "crack" the polymer or silicone if your purpose is to remove the wax. If a simple carnauba like p21s or zymol is applied, you may be able to remove the wax by claying. You must remember, claying is merely taking off the impurities in the finish like sap, light oxidation, fallout, etc. You should always polish and wax after claying.
Another question I’m often asked is “Do you need to clay over clear bra?” The answer, depending on the clay, you should. Over time, the film will collect deposits as well. I like the Sonus Extra-Fine clay for clear film cleaning. It's VERY gentle and safe on the film. You should then use a very mild polish or pre-wax cleaner and wax using a spray wax. My routine is Sonus clay, Zymol HD-Cleanse, and Zymol Field Glaze. This also depends on the film. Most newer films have a clear over them and the technique I mentioned will work. The older film that feels sticky or tacky should be left alone or cleaned with Plexus.
I hope this shed some light on the mystery behind clay. As with anything, use good judgment and make sure you’ve done due-diligence prior to using any product. Clay can be an effective and reliable tool provided you’re educated in its technique. Don’t be afraid and enjoy the experience.
Coming up:
A proper detail: What to expect for $125, $300, $800, and up…
Water Spots: Yikes! How to remedy the situation.
Featured Products:
“Acid rain, road silt and fallout are the enemy of paint. Water and soap wash away the loose particles but not the embedded pollution. The sun acts as a catalyst to help these paint-toxic pollutants penetrate and destroy your paint. Clay removes marring and soils through microscopic polishing and cleaning without harm to new or old paintwork.” (www.zymol.com)
You should not be afraid to use clay. Claying is very simple provided you use a high quality clay. There are several grades of clay; always go with the least aggressive to get the job done. The safest clays currently on the market are Sonus Extra-Fine clay, Zymol Lehm Klay2, and Clay Magic Blue. Next you need to find out the aggressiveness of the clay you're using. There's nothing wrong with using an aggressive clay if you're going to machine polish later. However, to be safe, you want to use a fine grade as to not further scratch the finish. I use Zymol Lehm Klay 2; it's not aggressive and is natural. Keep in mind, you're going to use more effort when using a mild grit of clay, but it's better in my opinion. Next, whatever manufacturer of clay you use, use their lube. I know lots of guys just use soap and water or a quick detailer type product, but I'm a firm believer in using what the manufacturer intended. I will say this though; most clay lubes don’t lubricate enough. I always add a little soap to my lube, 1/2 teaspoon is plenty for a 12oz bottle.
Next, make sure the finish is clean; by that I mean washed. Dry using waffle weave towel or Airmax, forced filtered air dryer. And we’re now ready to clay. Apply a generous amount of lube and start rubbing the clay back and forth in linear motion; never go in circular motion as this will cause swirls. You should hear and feel the contaminants in your paint. Once it's quiet and you don't feel anything, go over the same area in the opposite direction. For example, if you started claying away and toward you, you want to finish up rubbing right and left from you. Do this to the whole car and then rinse off the car and dry again. If you drop the clay, discard it and use a new piece. That’s why I split my clay bar into three sections. And to clean the clay while you’re rubbing, just fold it into itself and you’ll see the original clay color come back. Now, was that as hard as you thought? And guess what, you’re clear coat is still there
Clay can be used in many ways:
· You can use clay to remove tar from the road. If the tar is small splatters here and there and it's already dry, try clay first.
· If you have brake-dust buildup on the wheels and washing is not effective, clay the wheels.
· You can also clay windows to remove road grime buildup and tree sap.
I’m often asked, “Does claying remove the wax? In other words, if I clay a small area of my car, do I have to apply wax to it afterwards or just a quick wipe with a detail spray?” It depends on the wax. If a polymer like Rejex that actually molecularly bonds to the clear, then no, claying will not remove the polymer wax. You need a product to "crack" the polymer or silicone if your purpose is to remove the wax. If a simple carnauba like p21s or zymol is applied, you may be able to remove the wax by claying. You must remember, claying is merely taking off the impurities in the finish like sap, light oxidation, fallout, etc. You should always polish and wax after claying.
Another question I’m often asked is “Do you need to clay over clear bra?” The answer, depending on the clay, you should. Over time, the film will collect deposits as well. I like the Sonus Extra-Fine clay for clear film cleaning. It's VERY gentle and safe on the film. You should then use a very mild polish or pre-wax cleaner and wax using a spray wax. My routine is Sonus clay, Zymol HD-Cleanse, and Zymol Field Glaze. This also depends on the film. Most newer films have a clear over them and the technique I mentioned will work. The older film that feels sticky or tacky should be left alone or cleaned with Plexus.
I hope this shed some light on the mystery behind clay. As with anything, use good judgment and make sure you’ve done due-diligence prior to using any product. Clay can be an effective and reliable tool provided you’re educated in its technique. Don’t be afraid and enjoy the experience.
Coming up:
A proper detail: What to expect for $125, $300, $800, and up…
Water Spots: Yikes! How to remedy the situation.
Featured Products:
Last edited by MoeMistry; Oct 8, 2007 at 11:45 PM.
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