I can't honestly comment on 3M since I've never used it. At the end, if you have a system and it works and achieves the results your after, then go with it and don't worry about what others say. One of these days I'll get around to using 3M, but for now, Menzerna is tough to beat for ME.

 

Thanks--The description of the 106 looks pretty interesting. Forgive the rookie question, but is this like SIP where it needs to be worked in a little until it breaks down to a finer particle? [Frankly for an amateur like me a material like SIP that is changing while under use sounds a little risky. I would be better off with added steps ]

 

very nice job, congrats!

 

106 is just like 85, just a little more cut & polish. I prefer it to 85.

Sip needs to be broken done, & IMHO not the best product for a PC.

 

which is the best product to use on a midnight blue 996tt that has fine surface scratches and swirl marks that are only seen in the bright sun...? and then whats the best wax or sealer to use to keep it looking good. I have a PC orbital machine with orange and white foam pads.

thanks

 

For about 90+ % of all the Porsches we work on, Menzerna SIP and Nano polish with the LC Orange and White pad get the job done. So no matter how bad the swirls, you can get rid of most, if not all, with that polish/pad/polisher combo. Now, if you have scratches that are deeper, you may not be able to get them out with that product combo. Then i'd say give your p-car to a professional detailer to diagnose. Another investement that will make up for itself with the time saved on your first use is to get a FLEX DA polisher. It'll cut your time in half and give you results far above the porter cable. Hope this helps.

 

Do you think SIP is OK for a non-pro (like me)? The only reason I ask is that, from the videos I have seen, it looks like SIP relies on a certain amount of polishing action to break down into finer particles. If you quit too soon it actually can look worse.

 

SIP is user friendly and once you get the hang of it, works very well. The trick is to work slow and let the polish and pad do the work. That's why the flex is now become so popular with both the pro and diy detailer.

 

how does the flex differ from the PC?

 

Unlike the Makita which is a direct drive rotary, the flex is a true dual action polisher. The makita is basically a grinder that is measured in Revolutions Per Minute, RPM. This method of polishing is risky because it generates a lot of heat and friction. In the right hand, it's an excellent tool. The flex is a tool that basically has a random orbit pattern, measured in Orbits Per Minute, OPM, that mimics your hand movement. Since the polisher is moving in random circular and elliptical patterns, it does not cause swirls and it doesn’t generate the heat that the rotary does. Think of it as a hybrid of the porter cable da polisher and the rotary. It has the safety and ease of use as a pc, without the annoying noise and vibration. It can almost correct as well as the rotary but without the risk of burning or damaging your paint. The flex may cause damage though. Because it has a good deal of torque, it will generate more heat than the pc. So be careful with your pad around tight areas as the dry portion of your pad may scuff or heat painted areas and ma burn the paint. But if you just practice and remember to take it slow, you'll be just fine. Hope this helps.

 

Well, just to set the record straight Moe. Look at the stats for the Makita 9227C...

1.) Variable speed (0-3,000 RPM) with pre-set maximum speed dial; ideal for ultra slow polishing

2.) Electronic speed control maintains constant speed under load

3.) Lock-on button for continuous use at one speed.

The Makita 9227C is perfect for the DIYer.

But since you do not sell the Makita brand you have no reason to share the truth about it's abilities because it will cut into your Flex sales.

 

I don't sell the Makita Brian because I don't feel it's safe for the average guy that may polish his car once or twice a year. The stats you've mentioned have nothing to do with safety. The Makita is a direct-drive polisher which mean it spins in one direction. Most polishes are designed to be used at 1200-1500 RPM to be effective, this is the danger zone with a rotary polisher. The Makita is actually one of the best polishers, I use it almost daily.

Why you would make a comment about it affecting my flex sales is really inconsiderate and plain childish. You are one that knows first-hand about doing business with me as I treated you with respect and spent time on the phone with you when you bought products a while back. You know I didn't push anything or upsell when you've ordered in the past. If I was just in it for the money don't you think I would do things like that?

It seems as though you're speaking out of anger instead of the truth. Please address the facts and not your personal discontentment with me.

 

^^ I honestly can't even contemplate why someone would recommend a rotary for a DIYer. Seriously.

The rotary is an amazing tool, don't get me wrong. I don't know what I would do without mine. The HUGE downside of the rotary is its learning curve and potential for irrepairable damage to the paint surface.

Sure, it is reasonably safe in the hands of a professional, but any pro will tell you that they still have to exercise extreme caution when using it every single time. That risk level never goes away, no matter your experience.

The learning curve required with a rotary is what seriously makes it a tool only for a pro, and not a DIYer. You can't just pick it up and get amazing results, you simply can't do it. With issues like pad hopping, skipping, hologramming, and simply having the machine drag you all over the place, it takes hours of practice to get the hang of it. Most DIYers aren't going to scour bodyshops for spare panels to practice on first, they want something they can use on their own car. Learning how to polish with a rotary on your own car simply isn't smart. Trust me, I wanted to learn so bad that I tried on my own S2000, and what happened? Well I burned all the paint of the bottoms of both mirrors, and the edge of my hood. It wasn't that I wasn't being careful, or that I was new to polishing, I was just inexperienced with a rotary. The learning curve is steep, and the price of failure is very high. I don't know any pros that would recommend a rotary for any of their clients over a Flex or a PC simply because of the danger of paint damage and the steep learning curve. Hopefully some more of the pros on this forum will chime in.

If Moe was just trying to push sales of the Flex, I think that he would at least be comparing apples to apples. PCs and Flexs are much more closely related than Rotarys and Flexs. A Flex or a PC is going to be the chosen tool for a DIYer simply because you can be safe and effective with either straight from the box.

 

Okay...I will step up to the plate here. I am going to buy the Makita 9227C rotary. Then I will video myself using the rotary on my brand new GM car. I have never used one before. I am by no means a professional detailer. So let's see who is right and who is wrong here. Oh, and I get to use the polish/pads of my choice.

Hang on people. The proof will be in the video.

 

what about the PC orbital.. same machine as Griots garage. I cant see this being much different then the FLEX brand