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Clay the Can do Tool:

Hey everyone this is the first of a series of articles that I will post by Kevin Farrell.

Permission was granted to post this up by Kevin Farrell.

Please visit his website for his classes and more info:
http://www.kleencarauto.com/

CLAY CAN TURN A GOOD JOB INTO A GREAT JOB

Depending on whom you speak to, clay can either be one of the most useful “tools” in your shop, or just an expensive piece of play-dough. It’s been around for quite a few years now. Some detailers have embraced it, while some have no use for it. I believe that clay can be a valuable tool with many uses.

OVER SPRAY REMOVAL

The most obvious and popular use for clay is over spray removal. For this, it has been a godsend. Before clay, detailers had to use other methods for the removal of over spray. Compounding, which involves friction, heat, and heavy cleaners, is one such method. However, along with the over spray, this friction and heat could also remove some of the paint.

Another method for over spray removal involves dissolving the over spray with solvents, such as lacquer thinner, and rubbing it off. However, if a vehicle has a single stage paint system (e.g., lacquer, enamel) some of the paint, including possibly a painted pinstripe, will dissolve along with the over spray. In addition, this method can be hazardous to other parts of the vehicle, as well as to the detailer.

A third method for over spray removal is wet-sanding the finish. Potential problems with this method include rubbing through the finish, and putting sand scratch-marks in the finish, which would later need to be buffed out.


ATMOSPHERIC POLLUTANTS

The beauty of clay is that it can be used for more than just over spray removal. Foreign particles often cannot be washed off a vehicle’s surface. The clay bar is designed to pull these particles off the paint finish, without harming the paint, by releasing the bond between the foreign particles and the paint surface.

Today’s paint systems are mostly polyurethane base coat/clear coat, which actually is a form of plastic. When plastic heats up, it gets softer. This is what happens when a vehicle is left out in the hot sun all day. The heat generated by the engine, sun, and color of the paint can cause the surface temperature to reach over 200 degrees. This will soften the clear coat and allow foreign particles to embed themselves in the surface and bond to it. This is the major reason why particles remain even after the car has been washed.

The mistake many detailers make is thinking that these particles can be easily buffed or waxed off the surface during the normal polishing procedure. However, the problem is that the contaminant material is often quite durable and has a strong adhesive bond to the painted surface. Trying to buff or wet-sand the contaminant off the finish may do irreparable paint damage.


MANY ADVANTAGES

In addition to the removal of over spray, clay has many advantages:


- Clay will pull unwanted contaminants off any hard, non-porous surface faster than wet-sanding, compounding, or using solvents, with no damage to the vehicle’s finish.

- Clay will save a huge amount of time compared with other methods such as compounding, wet-sanding or the use of solvents.

- Clay will leave you with a surface that is as smooth as glass, making that surface easier to buff.

- Clay will work on any hard surface (e.g., glass, hard moldings, chrome, wheels, and other trim) where solvents can be dangerous and buffers cannot reach or may cause damage.

- Clay will work on most types of over spray, regardless of its composition.

- Clay will not harm the vehicle’s finish.


The use of clay can turn a good job into a great job. Have you ever polished a car and it looked great? No swirls, no streaks and a great shine but, when you rubbed the palm of your hand over the surface, it felt gritty or like sandpaper? This indicates that foreign materials, not removed by buffing or waxing, have been left on the surface. Customers always want to touch their newly detailed vehicle. Feeling grit on the surface will diminish their satisfaction. Claying will remove foreign materials and grit and will leave the customer completely satisfied.

Have you ever buffed a car and the buffer would not glide along, or would bounce, or drag? Have you spent a lot of extra time and effort on certain spots that you could still see sitting on the surface? In order to remedy these problems an unskilled detailer may try to buff off contamination by turning up the speed of the buffer, use a harsh compound or stay on the spot too long with the buffer. Employing these methods may result in paint damage. Using clay will avoid these difficulties and save time.
CLAY EVERY CAR


I clay almost every car I work on. This may sound extreme, but I don’t want a customer to feel anything except smooth sheet metal when he runs his hand over the surface of his vehicle.

The surface isn’t totally clean if there is any grit left behind. By claying every car before you put a buffer to it, you are assured of a few things:

- The surface will be clean;
- The entire buffing process will be easier;
- You will use less material because the buffing pad will glide along the surface better, and cover a greater area;
- You will have a better guide to exactly what has to be done to the finish.

Claying may seem like extra work, but you can actually save time by employing this extra step. That’s right, you can actually save time and produce a finer finish.

Consider the following:
- Buffing out all those little spots that remain on the surface wastes time;
- Using a more aggressive pad (which is necessary to remove little spots from the vehicle’s surface) leaves behind swirl marks and creates the extra step of swirl-mark removal;
- On a contaminated surface, the buffer drags and slows you down;
- A contaminated surface requires more cleaning product. This increases the chance of flinging the product which produces more mess and greater clean up time. Claying saves time by avoiding these issues.

Before clay.

During the procedure.

After clay


You may not be convinced. You may still be thinking that the extra time taken to clay the vehicle is counterproductive. It may seem as though you will spend as much time with the clay as you would with the buffer. And the amount of elbow grease required to clay the vehicle may give you a workout that you don’t want. Let’s look closer.

By claying the vehicle first, you will pull off any contamination that remains on the surface of the vehicle after it’s been washed. What you are left with is a super-smooth finish. Now you have a true idea as to exactly what that finish needs in order to look its very best. You may be able to use a less aggressive polish or cleaner, or a foam pad instead of a wool pad. The chances of leaving swirl marks are also greatly decreased because you can now run the buffer at a slower speed with a less aggressive polish and pad. Also, the buffer should glide smoothly across the surface with little or no drag, and you will not need to concentrate on particular problem areas that may still have spots left behind. Believe it or not, this will save a great deal of time.

It should take approximately 25 minutes to clay a mid-size car from the door moldings on up. However, Above: After clay. by claying the vehicle first, you will save time on the entire buffing procedure because of the things I just mentioned. Also, you will save time during the final step, be it waxing or paint sealant, because of the glass-like surface that is left behind and the ease of removal of the wax or sealant. In addition to time saved, other benefits include:

* A surface that feels awesome to the touch, like a brand new car;
* Greater depth and clarity, because of the truly clean finish;
* A faster rate of buffing for the foam-pad user;
* An almost zero chance of swirl marks and paint damage.

HOW TO USE CLAY

As with any other “tool” in your shop, there is a correct way to use clay for optimum benefits. A clay bar must be kept clean at all times because it is being rubbed over the paint surface. If dropped on the floor, the clay bar should be thrown away because it will pick up contaminants that could damage the paint. Some companies are now supplying a few thinner bars in one container. This allows easy access to another bar without having to buy a new piece.

Before claying, the vehicle should be thoroughly washed. This is a crucial step that cannot be skipped. Washing will get most of the dirt and contamination off the car, but you will be surprised at what is left behind — even on brand new vehicles. The clay must be used in conjunction with a lubricant. You may use spray wax, or a soap-and-water solution in a spray bottle.

Work a small 2-foot-by-2-foot area and keep the clay flat to the surface while rubbing it through the lubricant. Knead the clay frequently to bring fresh material to the surface. Pass over the surface a number of times to release the contaminants from the surface. Wipe the area clean with a soft towel, being careful not to put scratches in the finish. The contamination will be suspended in the lubricant and captured on the towel, leaving the finish clean and smooth. You can see what a great job the clay does by looking at how dirty the towel becomes after completing only a few small areas. You may need to replace the towel every so often as it becomes dirty. You will notice how clean, smooth and shiny the area becomes. It may look like it has just been polished. When claying, you will pick up all the contaminants that washing the car did not get off. Remember, be very careful not to pick up abrasives that can be dragged across the finish and leave scratches. Now, without the extra contamination on the surface, the entire car will be easier to polish and wax.


WHAT CLAY CAN’T DO

Clay cannot...

- Remove scratches. A scratch is a scratch and corrective measures must be taken;
- Take the place of compounding, polishing, or waxing. This is a tool for cleaning the surface. It will not buff the surface. Even though the finish will feel as if it’s been waxed, there is no protection whatsoever on the finish;
- Remove over spray or contamination from soft, porous trim and moldings. If the over spray has penetrated the surface, the clay will not work. As you gain experience, you will be able to tell what parts of the vehicle will need another type - Remove acid rain. If the vehicle has an acid-rain problem, a neutralization wash must be employed to neutralize the finish, or the acid-rain spots will come back;
- Remove rail dust. If there is a rail-dust problem and metal particles are embedded in the surface, a neutralization wash, again, must be used first. If all the particles still have not been released, you may have to repeat the neutralization wash.

Some problems exist in the paint, as well as on the surface. A clay procedure will only take care of problems that exist on the surface, not underneath the surface. As you become more experienced with all paint-finish problems, you will be able to determine correctly which methods to use.

Even with its limitations, I consider clay to be an invaluable tool in the detailing process. Clay can increase business by enhancing the overall appearance of a vehicle and heightening customer satisfaction. It can replace harmful procedures, and is safer for both you, and your customer’s car.

Published in "The Auto Laundry News" in May 1998

A little on the author:

Kevin Farrell - Owner of Kleen Car Auto Appearance is one of the leaders in the detailing industry. He has owned and operated a full service detailing center for 15 years and has written dozens of technical, and business related detailing article for major auto publications.

He created and implemented the detail training program for BMW of North America and now uses that same program to train detailers nationwide at the Kleen Car detail training facility in NJ.

In addition he has partnered to create a line of buffing products that are state of the art in the field. He tests and does research for different equipment and product manufacturers to develop the best possible products. He has spoken and presented at industry events and lends his skill, knowledge, and expertise whenever possible. His involvement in the International Car wash Association will hopefully lead to more awareness and better training and education in the detail industry.

 

Swirl Marks:

SWIRL MARKS ARE OFTEN A NATURAL CONSEQUENCE OF THE JOB YOU ARE PERFORMING


Published in "Auto Laundry News" in January 1999

If I mention “swirl marks” to you as a detailer, how do you react? Do you get the shakes, start to sweat, develop a nervous twitch? Some detailers view swirl marks as a major catastrophe, while others view them as a minor obstacle in completing a perfect job.

The real problem occurs when a vehicle with remaining swirl marks is delivered to the customer: The detailer is viewed as unprofessional and/or incompetent. The customer is now hesitant to have the car detailed again, fearing the same results. This gives the industry as a whole a bad name. Unfortunately, detailers who have the skill and expertise to do the job correctly are grouped in the same category as those who do not.

WHAT ARE SWIRL MARKS?

Swirl marks, or buffer marks as some people refer to them, are circular cuts or abrasions in the paint surface. They take the form and reflect the diameter of the buffing pad and follow the direction in which the detailer was moving the buffer along the paint surface. Many times the area will have a reduced degree of gloss.

These cuts and abrasions reflect light differently off the panels of the vehicle. The light will bounce off in various directions, instead of uniformly in one direction. You will see the most variance in direct sunlight. The gloss and clarity will be greatly affected because of these dreaded “swirl marks.” Unlike most light scratches (which can make their appearance anywhere on the vehicle), the swirl marks are unacceptable to customers because of their unnatural appearance, and because the customer “paid” for these results.


HOW DID THEY GET THERE?

Swirl marks are not a factory option, and they don’t just suddenly appear out of the blue. Somebody, in the process of trying to do something to the paint surface, put them there. Unfortunately, there are many reasons why swirls appear;
here are some of the explanations:

* Choosing a buffing pad that is too aggressive is common. A heavy cut wool pad will inflict deep swirls on most clear-coat surfaces. In fact, the use of most wool pads on a clear-coat surface will leave swirl marks.
* Using the buffer at very high speed will continue to put swirls in the finish. Speed creates heat. Heat softens the clear and that combination is a recipe not only for swirl marks, but also for “burning” the paint finish.
* The wrong choice of compound or polish can also produce swirl marks. Using a product that is too aggressive will cut into the surface quicker and deeper and leave swirl marks.
* Not using enough compound or polish will quicken the appearance of swirls. Keeping enough product between the buffing pad and the paint surface will act as a lubricant and slow the swirling process down.
* Not keeping the buffing pad flat on the paint surface can also cause swirls. Many detailers have a tendency to “come up on edge” with the outer part of the buffing pad. Doing this will put swirls in the paint much faster.

In addition to these issues, there are other variables to consider. Know the model car you are working on. Has this make of vehicle given you trouble previously? Some vehicles are very easily scratched. It does not take a lot to put a mark in the paint surface. If you get to know how hard or soft the clear is, you can judge what can and can’t be done to the surface without leaving swirl marks.

What exactly needs to be done to the paint surface? Are there major imperfections on or in the paint? Does it just need a polish and a wax? If you are not doing corrective procedures to the paint, you should utilize the least aggressive method possible.

If you take account of all the factors that could impact the creation of swirl marks before you begin to work on the car, you can develop a game plan to do the job correctly.


HOW TO CORRECTLY REMOVE SWIRLS.

Once you realize that the swirl marks are there, you can determine what method to use to remove them. Often, you will leave swirls behind as a natural consequence of the job you are performing. For instance, a deep scratch has to be sanded or compounded to remove it. This will certainly cause swirls. Other examples are acid rain removal, or the elimination of scuffs and/or other blemishes. Most of the time, the first step in this process will be aggressive enough to leave swirl marks behind. Before you can take corrective action, you must identify what type of swirl you’re dealing with:

Compound Swirl - This is a swirl mark that is cut deeper into the finish. It was probably brought about by a heavy cut wool pad, and a medium to heavy cut compound. Depending on the speed of the buffer at the time it was created, the swirl mark may be fairly deep into the surface.

Polish Swirl - This type of swirl is still unsightly, but not as deep into the paint surface. This may have been created with a lighter wool pad, or even a light-cut foam pad.

To remove swirl marks you must take your time; a number of steps may be necessary. If a vehicle has been heavily compounded to remove scratches, acid rain, haziness, or other imperfections from the paint, you may want to try a multi-step swirl-removal process. Your swirl remover product must have light cutting ability to level out the surface. You also must use a light cutting foam pad, or a genuine lambs wool pad as the first step. This first step may sometimes be necessary because the swirls may be fairly deep into the clear coat, and leveling them in two steps will ensure total removal. If you were to use just a polishing foam pad and a very light swirl-remover polish, you may not remove them completely, and they may reappear after a few washings.

The second step in a deep-swirl removal process is the same as if the vehicle had light polish swirls to begin with. Use a foam pad with a PPI rating of about 80 (For more information about PPI ratings, see the article “Buffing Pads” in the November 1998 issue of Auto Laundry News). This type of pad will not cut so deeply and, as a result, will not put more swirls back into the surface. Run the high-speed buffer at no higher than 1,500 rpm. Remember, don’t be too aggressive with speed and heat in this step or you’ll defeat the whole purpose of the exercise. A true swirl remover product with some cutting or leveling ability will be the product of choice to use on the surface. Work in small sections at a time and move slowly over the area that you are buffing. You should be able to see the swirls disappear if you are doing it correctly.


WHY ARE THEY STILL THERE?

If the process was done correctly, the swirl marks will not come back. You have leveled out the surface and removed the swirl marks. The trouble some detailers have with swirls is this:

1.
Wrong choice of buffing pad, swirl remover product, and/or speed on the buffer. Some products have a lot of silicone and oils in them and may hide or fill the swirl marks, giving the detailer the false impression that they are gone.
2.
Poor lighting. Many shops have lighting that is insufficient to correctly check to make sure the swirls are gone. Fluorescent light is not enough to correctly view the panel. I have found that halogen lights simulate sunlight sufficiently well to check if the swirls remain. They are cheap, portable, and have different lighting capacities from 300 to 1000 watts. If halogen is not available, you may have to take the vehicle outside into the sun. This is a great aid in making sure the swirl marks are gone. Fluorescent light shows many imperfections that natural light does not, but does not pick up fine swirl marks all that well.
3.
Inexperience. You must have a good eye and know what you are looking for. The panel may have had a scratch or blemish to begin with. You compounded it out and gave the panel a nice shine and it looks quite a bit better than when you started, but fine swirls will probably still be present. A good detailer will know that the panel is still not quite finished.
4.
Poor quality control or not enough time given to work on the vehicle. If the detailer is somewhat inexperienced, there should be a supervisor present to point out the fine swirl marks and instruct him to perform an additional step to remove them. Sometimes, however, there is not enough time, or the job isn’t paying enough to justify that extra step.

It is discouraging to take a vehicle into direct sunlight and discover on its finish swirl marks you thought you had successfully removed, or, worse, having an unhappy customer bring the vehicle back when he finds the marks. By far the worst, though, is the customer who discovers the marks, but does not bring the car back — ever — because he views you as an unprofessional incompetent.


GO AWAY AND NEVER COME BACK!

There is an age-old method of quality control you can employ when removing swirl marks. Fill a spray bottle with a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water. Spray the surface you have just completed and let the solution sit for approximately 15 seconds. Wipe the area with a clean soft towel and observe. What you have done is remove any silicone, wax, and oils that may have filled the swirls instead of eliminating them. This is where the halogen lights come in handy. Shine the light directly on the panel and look for fine swirls. If they are still present, you should be able to see them. If you have done the job correctly, you will see a clear, bright reflection off the panel with a great shine, depth, and clarity. This finish says the swirls are gone.


DON’T LET THE COLOR FOOL YOU[/B]

We all know that swirl marks are more easily visible on dark colored cars. You actually see the swirls in the clear coat but the dark background color (the base coat) is a good backdrop. Don’t get lazy and skip a step because you may be working on a light colored vehicle. You may have to look a little harder, but you will see swirls on a light color. A customer with a good eye will see them, too. Remember that you are buffing the clear, and the same steps and procedures should be followed regardless of the vehicle color.


DON’T BE AFRAID[/B]

Don’t be afraid of swirl marks. Sometimes the biggest mistake you can make when detailing a vehicle is being too timid with the paint. If the surface needs to be cut into, there is a good chance that some kind of swirl mark will be left behind. If you do not give the paint surface what it needs to look its best because you are afraid of leaving behind swirl marks, you are cheating both yourself and the customer.

Don’t worry about swirl marks. Be aware of them but don’t be afraid of them. If you are not being paid for a multi-step procedure, try not to use a wool pad. Most of the time, this type of pad will leave behind swirl marks to some degree. If a one-step procedure is being used, employ a finishing foam pad on the high-speed buffer, or use an orbital machine to polish the vehicle. The key in the buffing process is to know how the paint will react to each step you are performing. Once you know that swirl marks are fairly easy to remove, you will have the confidence to do what the car needs.

Kevin Farrell owns and operates Kleen Car, a full-service auto detailing business located in New Milford, NJ. His background includes auto dealership experience and training through DuPont, General Motors and I-CAR.

 

Refinishes how to spot them:

Published in "Auto Laundry News" in June 2001

Chances are that at some point in its life, a vehicle will have at least one mishap that will result in the need for it, or at least part of it, to be to be refinished. It is important to be able to identify any portion of a vehicle that has been refinished or has had bodywork to eliminate potential problems with the customer after his vehicle has been detailed.

THINGS HAPPEN

Problems can occur with a vehicle’s paint and body long before it ever reaches a dealership. There may have been a problem on the paint assembly line where the finish is not quite up to standard and the vehicle is sent through the factory spray booth again. Cars may be banged around on ships transporting them from overseas or in a holding yard and will need to be fixed. Cars being transported on carriers may be scratched, or have paint-damaging fluids leak over them from cars above. Sometimes these vehicles are repaired perfectly, but not always. When they are not perfectly repaired, a detailer could bear the wrath of a customer who does not think that his car came out the way it should.

HOW TO SPOT A REFINISH

You may save yourself a great deal of headaches and confusion if you can determine whether a portion of a vehicle has been repainted or has had bodywork performed. Good vision and knowing what to look for are the main requirements, but having an instrument that measures exactly how much paint is on the vehicle is also very important.

A useful piece of equipment to measure the paint film is an electronic paint thickness gauge or an ETG. It is made by Pro Motor Car products in Clearwater, FL. This instrument accurately measures the thickness of the paint film. Knowing how much paint is on the vehicle will quickly tell you if that portion of the vehicle has been refinished.

HOW MUCH IS TOO MUCH?

The electronic paint thickness gauge will read in Mils (1/1000th of an inch) or Microns (1 millionth of a meter). Regardless of which increment you choose, there are some guidelines as to how much is too much.

For example, a new BMW will have a typical total film thickness of about 120 microns, which equals 4.72 mils. Some manufacturers will produce vehicles with slightly more, some slightly less paint. If you take 5 mils as an average paint thickness, you have a guideline to determine how much is too much.

The ETG is the most accurate tool of its kind and is very user friendly. Turn it on, select your increment (mils or microns), hold the probe flat against the panel, and look at the reading. You need to go around the vehicle and take two or three readings per panel. To go over the entire car will only take about two minutes and the time spent may help you later on. If your readings are consistently in the 4 to 6.5 mil range, or up to 165 microns, you are probably working with factory paint.

If you have a panel on which the readings shoot up to 8 or 9 mils, or over 200 microns, you are probably working with a vehicle with some type of refinish. This tells you to examine that part of the vehicle more carefully to look for things that you may not be able to fix with a simple detail. If a panel was replaced, however, the readings will probably be in the range of factory specs, so having good vision and knowing what to look for remain the most important tools in identifying a refinished or non-factory finished panel.

POTENTIAL PROBLEMS

If a refinish job was done well you don’t have to worry about it. Sometimes there is no more beautiful a sight than a great aftermarket paint job. The paint looks like glass and has a shine and clarity that is of show-car quality. If the whole vehicle was repainted that is fine. But if it wasn’t, how does the original paint look next to the refinish paint? If a refinish job was done well, the paint on the part of the car that was refinished may look significantly better than the original paint on the rest of the car. On the other hand, there are many potential refinish problems, which may make the paint on the portion of the vehicle that was refinished look much poorer than the paint on the rest of the vehicle.

Being a painter myself, I know how difficult it is to produce a factory, or better-than-factory, finish. There are dozens of things that must go correctly or you risk compromising the job. If one thing goes wrong it may stick out like a sore thumb. The problem is that when detailing a car that has been poorly refinished, the customer tends to blame the detailer for not correcting a paint problem, regardless of whether or not it was correctable through the normal detailing process.

paint refinish examples
An example of a run in the clear coat.
This may be repairable to a degree.

An example of a base-coat run.
The paint pooled together and ran,
causing a change in the color.


NON-REPAIRABLE PAINT PROBLEMS

Let’s start by looking at some “non-repairable” problems in refinish work:

Color Match

If the color is off, it’s off. This is a problem in the base coat, which underlies the clear coat. You do not buff the base, you only buff clear coat. There are several reasons why the color may be “off.” The paint may not have been mixed or sprayed correctly, or it may not have been blended into the adjacent panel to hide the color difference. Metallic flakes in the base coat may also lie at a different angle on the refinish panel, causing light to reflect differently and that may shift the color.

Sand Scratch

Swelling This is common and refers to fine, sandpaper-caused scratches in the bodywork where the solvents from the layers of paint (primers, base coat, and clear coat) have penetrated those fine scratches and caused them to swell. This will show through the layers of paint and may appear to be scratches that the customer thinks can be removed by buffing. They cannot. Blotches, Mottling or Striping Some paints have a high metallic content and must be sprayed very carefully to match the factory appearance. If these metallic flakes lay the wrong way, it may look blotchy or have the appearance of stripes going across a panel where the metallics have pooled together. This may also shift the color. Again, this is in the base coat and there is nothing that can be done except to re-do the entire panel.

Cracking

If a paint surface gets too thick or too much paint has been applied to one area, it may crack or split over time. This also may appear to be a scratch, but upon careful examination you will determine that the paint film is cracked and cannot be buffed out.

Blisters or Solvent Pop

If you do not allow paint to flash or start to dry between coats, you may get a blistering effect, or what is called solvent pop. The solvents must escape and evaporate. If the solvents are trapped in the paint they eventually will break out by breaking the paint film. They may simply look like dots, pinholes, or small round deposits on the top of the paint surface. Customers will want to know why they are still there after the detail. Hazing or Cloudiness (Die Back) Painters usually buff, or even wet-sand then buff, a paint job after it is completed. Sometimes a body man with limited buffing skills and experience will be too harsh on a fresh paint job and overheat the new clear coat. This may not show up right away but over time that panel will lose its luster and gloss and never look as good as the rest of the vehicle. Again, this is something the customer may blame you for and it is not your fault.

Lack of Gloss (Dull)

Some shops use cheaper paint that does not hold up, dries out and loses its shine. The paint job may look good for a while, but over a short period of time oxidation will occur. This will be seen more in a single stage paint repair.

Peeling or Bubbling

If a surface was not prepared correctly and there was some grease or oil deposit left on it before refinishing, the paint will not stick. It may start to lift or bubble. The customer may not see these bubbles, but when you proceed to buff the vehicle you may rip a piece off or tear the paint film because it was weak to begin with. You will most certainly get the blame for this.

There are many things that have to be done correctly to produce a factory-like finish. When paint does not look the way it is supposed to, a customer will call on a detailer to make his car look like new. If the results do not meet the customer’s expectations, you may have given yourself a bad Above: An example of a run in the clear coat. This may be repairable to a degree. Above right: An example of a base-coat run. The paint pooled together and ran, causing a change in the color. name. It is so important to be able to see if a vehicle has been repainted, not only to cover yourself, but also to turn the situation into a more profitable detail.

VISUALLY INSPECT

I can’t stress enough how important it is to look over the vehicle with the customer before you start working on it. If you have the electronic paint thickness gauge, use it! Let the customer see that you know what you are doing. This tool adds to your credibility and it allows you to measure the paint along with visually inspecting it.

Open the doors. Look for overspray or tape lines in the doorjambs. Open the hood and trunk. Look for rough edges and limited coverage in these areas. Look for overspray on glass. Look for leftover masking tape. These are telltale signs. I do this on every job. I also look for things that I know won’t be part of the regular detail. I want to find uncorrectable things like I have just mentioned, but I also want to find “correctable” refinish problems which will be more profitable and produce a much better looking vehicle.

REPAIRABLE PAINT PROBLEMS[/B]

There are a number of refinish problems that can be perfectly corrected, or greatly improved, but almost always at a higher cost to the customer:

Overspray

This is one of the most common things in a refinish situation. Even if the area of repair is perfect, there may be overspray in areas that were not painted. This is simply a case of the vehicle not being covered enough to protect other areas from overspray settling. Many times this overspray can be clayed, then polished to regain the clarity and smoothness of the panel.

Heavy Orange Peel

This actually looks like the skin of an orange. Orange peel, to a degree, is acceptable. It is even designed into a factory finish, but too much hurts the gloss and clarity of the finish. Sometimes it can be compounded and polished out, but many times it will have to be wet sanded to “knock it down” then compounded and polished to remove it or lighten it.

Sags or Runs

This is a pooling of the clear coat to the point that it will sag or run down the panel. This will always need to be wetsanded rather aggressively. A great deal of skill and patience is involved, but it can be repaired.

Dry Spray

This will have a grainy appearance, rough feel, and a general lack of gloss. Sometimes this can be wet-sanded and buffed, if there is enough clear on the panel. Sometimes the clear is too thin and not much can be done.

Dirt or Dust in the Clear

Small, or sometimes large, particles will settle onto the paint surface while it is still wet. There is nothing that can be done with this until the finish has dried and cured. Many times you can “nib” these particles off with a small sanding block, then buff out. If there are only a few dirt nibs this is fairly easy, but if the entire panel is covered, the whole panel will have to be wet-sanded and buffed.

Fish Eyes or Cratering

This is caused by silicone or oil contamination in the air, or already on the surface of the vehicle from not being cleaned properly. The silicone particles push the clear coat molecules out of the way and form what looks like a depression or a crater in the clear coat. This is much more difficult to repair than a dirt nib because it is usually deep in the surface and too much sanding to level it out may break through into the base coat.

THE DETAILERS PROBLEM

As soon as you accept the job to detail a customer’s vehicle, you are expected to make it look as close to new as possible. Customers who are not made aware of refinish paint problems may not be happy with the outcome of the job. If the vehicle is not uniform in its appearance, or has an imperfection that you could not remove, you will more than likely be given the blame.

You should strive to train yourself to become a paint expert to enable you to address most paint problems. The customer will not always be happy to hear what you have to say, but you will be perceived as a true professional and paint expert, and maybe make some jobs more profitable along the way.

In next month’s issue, we will look at the prospects of you performing some refinishing yourself. Is it profitable? Is it difficult? What is involved and which jobs should you let a body shop handle?

Kevin Farrell owns and operates Kleen Car, a full-service auto detailing business located in New Milford, NJ. Kevin is also an instructor for a detailing program he developed for, and in conjunction with, BMW of North America. His background includes auto dealership experience and training through DuPont, General Motors, and I-Car.
Detailing Products

Copyright © 2004 by Kevin Farrell

 

How to Prevent Buffer Splatter:

Permission was granted to post this up by Kevin Farrell.

Please visit his website for his classes and more info:
http://www.kleencarauto.com/

Buffer Splatter Prevent this Messy Time Waster...by Kevin Ferrell

LIVING WITH THE PROBLEM
Unfortunately, splatter is so common that some detailers expect it to occur at some point during the buffing process. Detailers live with the problem and cope with splatter in many ways. Some detailers, anticipating the splatter, will take precautions, such as wearing an apron so their shirts and pants don’t acquire that speckled look. Another precautionary measure is covering up problem areas such as the windshield wipers and the cowl area. Does the use of a towel, masking paper, or piece of cardboard sound familiar as a strategy for catching the splatter?

GETTING RID OF IT
Some detailers take the approach that they will just wipe all of the splatter off the car when they’re done buffing. Others will re-wash the entire vehicle. Some will choose to re-buff the splatter. Are any of these methods legitimate fixes for the problem?
Let’s examine these fixes more closely. Covering up problem areas with towels, masking paper, or tape is fine, but also is a bit time-consuming. I personally do not like the idea of draping towels over the windshield wipers or cowl area because the buffing pad may catch the towel and wrap itself around the buffer. This can be very dangerous.
Wiping all of the splatter off the car is extremely time-consuming and may put scratches back into the paint film. If you have been compounding, compound will still be present on the car’s surface, but in a dusty and drier form. Wiping it off with the wrong type of towel, or a very dry towel, may lead to scratches, as well as a vast amount of time wasted trying to get rid of the splatter.
Re-washing the car to get rid of buffer splatter is a huge waste of time. Even after drying it, the vehicle will still drip water from cracks, crevices, and moldings for a long period of time. This may keep wetting the buffing pad in the next buffing step, which may lead to even more buffer splatter. Never re-wash the car unless you absolutely have to!
Some detailers will just re- buff the splatter. This is also not a good idea. There is usually not enough product (in its splatter form) to buff effectively. The product is usually dry and dusty. This is similar to dry buffing, which may lead to swirl marks. If the buffing step you were on happened to be the swirl mark removal process, and you rebuff splatter, you may be putting the swirls back in that you were trying to take out! Never re-buff the splatter! We know the cleanup of all this splatter is a pain, and very timeconsuming. Taking some precautions is sometimes a good idea. However, knowing why and how splatter occurs may help you to prevent it, and not having to worry about cleanups or time-consuming precautions.

WHY DOES THIS HAPPEN?
Buffer splatter occurs for a variety of reasons. Mainly it is caused by an inattentive detailer who is unaware of what is happening as he is buffing a panel. The list begins with simply not paying attention. You run the risk of major splatter if:

1. You do not constantly look at what you are buffing and know where the buffing pad is in relation to the product.
2. You use too much product — the buffing pad does not have a chance to absorb most of it, and the remaining product will get splattered.
3. The buffing pad does not stay flat on the panel being buffed, you leave room for the product to escape in the form of splatter.
4. You start the buffer at too high a speed, or keep it at too high a speed, there is an increased risk of splatter.
5. The buffing pad gets saturated with product, it has nowhere else to go except out of the pad and all over the car.
6. The product itself is too watery or has been mixed with water or a spray shine product to get it to flow better over the panel, it may splatter.
7. You cross the line of product the wrong way with the buffing pad and it does not get “caught” under the buffing pad, it may splatter.
8.
You never clean your buffing pad, thereby letting it get to the saturation level, splatter will occur as in example 5. These are some examples of why buffer splatter can occur. Most detailers don’t like the mess and would rather not splatter the product all over the place. Some detailers are aware of this, and employ various methods to prevent splatter, but these methods may not be effective.


PREVENTION GONE WRONG
Car buffing tips
The windshield wiper and cowl area commonly suffer most from splatter
Fear of the dreaded splatter will lead some detailers down a dangerous road of malprevention. Incorrect prevention methods include simply buffing at a very slow speed with the buffer barely spinning. This may prevent splatter, but the car will never be buffed correctly because not enough heat is generated to reflow the clear coat to obtain gloss and remove surface imperfections.
Another prevention method that may be incorrectly implemented is smearing the product on the panel rather than dotting it on or laying down a line of product. While there is far less chance of splatter if the product was smeared on, you are also prematurely drying and evaporating the product on the panel. This will lead to a dry buffing effect, which will lead to swirl marks. Also, smeared-on product is an inadequate amount of product, which will be ineffective, whatever buffing stage you happen to be in.
So, now we know why buffer splatter occurs and some of the non-preferred methods of preventing it. Let’s look at the correct way to prevent it, while ensuring that enough product is available to correctly buff the panel you are working on.

CORRECT PREVENTION
Buffing Pad
The edge of this pad is too wet. Splatter is being flung right off the pad and on to the panel.
If you take your time and pay attention to the buffing process, a large percentage of buffer splatter can be eliminated. However, some precautions must also be taken to ensure a clean, splatter-free buff.
Buffing Pad
Always start with a clean, dry, buffing pad. It should not be wet — not with water, a spray-shine product, previous compound, or polish from another buffing session. Always start the buffer very slowly (less than 1,000 rpm). Work the product into the paint before turning up the speed of the buffer. This will greatly reduce the chances of splattering the product.

Application
Detailing Products

Detailing Training
Applying the product on the panel to be buffed is also a key issue. Some detailers like to “dot” or “dab” the product on the panel. This is fine, as long as it’s done in a consistent pattern on the panel. You don’t want product randomly or haphazardly applied, as this will lead you to “run into” the dots of product with the buffing pad, causing the edge of the pad to hit the product and send it flying or splattering all over. My preferred method of applying the product on the panel is to lay out thin horizontal lines of product and space them far enough apart so the buffer will not inadvertently run over the line of product causing splattering. This will somewhat resemble the yard markers on a football field. The reason I like to apply the product this way is twofold: 1) By laying out lines of product, it will not start to dry and evaporate, thus keeping the product wet enough to have enough flow and do its job correctly. 2) The additional lines, like those of the yard markers on a football field, save me a bit of time as I don’t have to constantly pick up my bottle of product and continually apply it on the car. By having multiple lines of product laid out, I can keep buffing the entire time and develop a flow and pattern to the buffing procedure.
Doing it this way has its drawbacks. With this method, there is quite a bit of product on the panel. A detailer who is not paying attention, or working extremely fast, has a much better chance of splattering the product.

Catch the Product
To “catch” the product correctly and not splatter it, a few things have to happen simultaneously. First, you always want to “catch” the lines of product back into the buffing pad. Since the buffer spins clockwise, the correct way to do this is to move the buffer from right to left and let the product spin back into the center of the buffing pad. Lift up the edge of the buffer very slightly, so that the left side of the pad is angled up a bit. This allows the product to slide under and into the pad, instead of all over the car. If you go the opposite way (left to right), the leading edge of the product has no way to get under and into the pad. This will greatly increase the chance of splatter. Turn the buffer on by triggering it and feathering the speed very slowly. Once the product has been “caught,” and the line of product has disappeared, flatten out the pad and buff the panel. Increase speed gradually and increase the pressure of the pad to the panel you are buffing.
If you have laid out the product in “dot” form, simply place the buffing pad directly over the dab of product and start the buffer slowly, work the product into the panel, and slowly increase speed and pressure.
This method will usually work perfectly when the buffing pad is fresh and clean. As it starts to get a little wet and saturated with product, it becomes more difficult to control splatter. Frequently spur the pad (wool pads) or use a toothbrush (foam pads) to clean the pad and remove the excess product. Also, at this point apply a little less product on the panel because the buffing pad is a bit wet with the product you have been using.
Be careful to keep the product from finding the very edge of the buffing pad. Once you have product on the edge of the pad, the centrifugal force of the spinning pad will fling the product out of the pad and all over the car. Also, do not be afraid to get a brand new pad! At some point the pad will get too wet and the toothbrush method will not be as effective. Have clean, dry pads ready at all times during the day. There is no rule that says you have to use one pad per car, or worse, one pad all day long.

BUFF IN YOUR SUNDAY BEST!
Once you have the procedures and methods of splatter-free buffing honed, wear a suit or tuxedo to work! Show off! There is no need for an apron. You will not get messy! Unless polka dots are a fashion statement, you do not have to be wearing them!

Kevin Farrell owns and operates Kleen Car, a full-service auto detailing business located in New Milford, NJ. Kevin is also an instructor for a detailing program he developed for, and in conjunction with, BMW of North America. His background includes auto dealership experience and training through DuPont, General Motors, and I-Car.

 

Choosing the Right Pad:

Permission was granted to post this up by Kevin Farrell.

Please visit his website for his classes and more info:
http://www.kleencarauto.com/

Choosing the correct buffing pad is critical ....by Kevin Farrell

In last month’s issue, I spoke about the importance of buffing products and the need to know what they can do. If you have products that you are familiar with, the other item that is just as important to the buffing process is the buffing pads. Your choice of buffing pads is just as critical as your choice of buffing products, and you must know exactly what each can do.

The type of pad you choose when buffing a car will make a huge difference in the overall appearance of the paint finish when the car is completed. There are various reasons for this. First you must know the aggressiveness of the compound or polish you are working with. I urge you to get familiar with your buffing products and know what they can and cannot do in regards to paint correction. With that variable known, you must also realize that not every paint system will react the same way when buffing it. Therefore, your choice of buffing pad needs to be based on the product you are using, the type of paint, and what you need to accomplish in that particular buffing step.

Not all paints are the same

Most of the cars you will be working on have a basecoat/clearcoat paint system. As a detailer, you will be buffing the clearcoat portion of the paint. Some clearcoats react differently when buffed, even when your choice of product and buffing pad remains the same. Paint chemists refer to the difference in clearcoats as cross link density. The denser the clearcoat is, the harder it is. Less dense clearcoats are softer. One is not necessarily better or worse than the other, but a detailer must be aware that all clearcoats do not react the same way when buffing. When buffing a softer clear, you may have an easier time removing scratches and blemishes, but you may leave behind deeper swirl marks and more of a haze or cloudiness in the surface. Also, the danger of burning the paint is greater on a softer clearcoat. This type of clear needs less aggressive buffing and a less aggressive choice of buffing pad. A harder clearcoat will pose more of a difficulty in removing scratches and blemishes. This type of clear will need more aggressive buffing and a more aggressive choice of buffing pad. So, keeping in mind that all paints react differently to buffing, you will probably need a variety of buffing pads to produce a perfect finish on each and every vehicle.

By hand or by pad?

With today’s paint finishes, you almost certainly will have to use some type of buffer and buffing pad for optimum results. The days of getting a flawless finish doing everything by hand are over. Why would you want to perform the whole job by hand anyway?
Applying a product by hand wastes time and product, and will never produce the desired results that a buffer and pad will. Some detailers may be afraid of the damage that a buffer and pad can do if used incorrectly. Therefore, they work by hand. Some of the damage caused by high speed buffers are the direct result of not knowing what each pad can do to the paint surface. Let’s look at the different pads and what each one can do.

Types of buffing pads

There are 2 groups of buffing pads that can be used to buff a paint finish. Within each group are numerous choices. The first group of pads are Wool pads. There are a wide variety of wool pads to choose from. The jobs they do vary and include heavy cutting or compounding, light cutting, polishing and finishing. The pad may be made of 100% wool, a blend of wool and synthetic, or natural lamb’s wool for finishing purposes.

Cleaning of the wool pad

Keeping the buffing pad clean is a must for consistent, smooth buffing and a quality finish. The best way to clean a wool pad is to let the residue from the polish or compound fully dry and use only a “spur” tool to clean it. Some detailers use screwdrivers. Don’t clean a pad this way. It is dangerous and may rip up the wool.

Foam pads

The second group of pads are foam pads. They have come a long way in the last few years. Their job descriptions range from cutting, to polishing, and finishing.

The aggressiveness of foam pads are judged in a couple of different ways. The first way is to obtain its grading. Foam pads are graded in PPI or Pores per square Inch. Most foam pads range between 40-100 PPI, with a higher grading or PPI usually signifying a softer pad. To further explain PPI, if you magnify a foam pad it will look like a honeycomb. The more cells or pores there are per inch, the higher the PPI rating. The less cells or pores per inch would give that pad a lower PPI rating and will tend to make that pad a bit more aggressive.

The second variable in judging the aggressiveness of a foam pad is its density and compression. There are many different types of foam densities available to pad manufacturers. The combination of pad density, compression and PPI will ultimately determine the aggressiveness of the foam pad. Never judge pads aggressiveness solely by its color. Some companies use similar colors for their pads but the aggressiveness can be totally different. A very aggressive pad would typically have a PPI rating of 40 or 50 and would be fairly dense in feel. Light cut pads would be a 60-80 PPI and have a softer feel but still somewhat dense. Finishing pads are closer to 100 PPI and feel very soft.

Cleaning of foam pads

To clean a foam pad, you will frequently need to spin the pad while on the buffer and use a nylon bristle toothbrush to remove excess product. You NEVER want to use a spur, screwdriver, edge of a countertop, etc to clean a foam pad because it will immediately destroy the pad. It is also not recommended to wash foam pads in hot water and dry them in a clothes dryer. The heat will sometimes delaminate the glue that adheres the Velcro to the back of the pad. This will cause the Velcro to separate from the pad and it is nearly impossible to reattach it once it separates.

Know what each pad is capable of

Knowing the descriptions and characteristics of both wool and foam pads should help you in understanding what each type of pad can accomplish in the buffing process. In your arsenal of buffing pads you should be able to grab any type of pad and know exactly what that pad will do to the paint surface.

The more aggressive pads are designed to “shave” the paint of its imperfections, while still being able to produce a degree of gloss. The lighter cut and polishing pads are designed to finely buff and shine the paint surface to give it a brilliant appearance. Some of the more aggressive pads can damage the paint if care is not taken. An aggressive pad will also damage moldings and other sensitive trim if used incorrectly.

Finishing pads won’t pose a serious threat of damage paint and moldings, but they can’t be used exclusively just because a detailer may be afraid of damaging something. That is, a finishing pad really should not be used for compounding; the same as compounding pads should not be used for finishing. Trying to use one type of pad for everything is counter productive to what you are trying to accomplish. The results will not be what you want. However, there are instances when you can overlap uses for some pads and be extremely successful. Let’s examine the possibilities.

Up and down the ladder

You can take the buffing products that you have and make them more or less aggressive by your choice of buffing pad, and/or speed and pressure exerted on the buffer. I call this moving up and down the ladder. I keep things simple in my shop. I use only one compound and only one polish. I don’t see a need to have 2 or 3 different compounds and 2 or 3 different polishes. I know the capabilities of my products and I can adjust what they can do by changing pads. The compound needs to work with your most aggressive pad to remove the harshest imperfections. This is the top end of the ladder as far as aggressiveness. I have an excellent compounding foam pad (50PPI and fairly dense) that works well with my compound at a fairly low speed. For most applications I can use this foam pad with my compound and it will remove most scratches and blemishes. If I want the compound to perform a bit less aggressively, I will simply use a medium foam pad (60PPI with medium density). This limits the overall aggressiveness of the compound. The speed and pressure exerted on the buffer also comes into play. At 1500 RPM and more pressure, you will be more aggressive than at 1000 RPM and little pressure. So there is quite a bit of leeway involved by working with the same product, but choosing a couple of different pads.

Using the polish I can do the same thing. I can go up the ladder of aggressiveness by using the 60PPI, medium dense pad and slightly more speed and pressure, to be slightly more aggressive to accomplish tasks such as removing deep swirl marks. I can go down the ladder and use a 90 or 100 PPI pad that is very soft with less speed and pressure and be less aggressive, as in final polishing.

Some detailers question my simplistic approach and wonder how I can work with only 1 compound, 1 polish and 3 different choices of pads. However, 95% of the time I have no problem removing imperfections, swirl marks, and creating a showroom new finish with what I choose to use. I simply move up and down the ladder with my choice of pads.


Specialty pads

You may have seen some of the specialty pads that are out there such as 3 inch wool or foam pads for very tight areas. Many of the car manufactures use these very small diameter pads to quickly buff minor imperfections in the paint after the vehicle has been painted. The small diameter pad limits the amount of buffing and precisely buffs the area in question. I sometimes use a 3 inch foam pad to polish door jambs or very tight areas where control and accuracy is the key.

I am also a huge fan of 6 inch pads. While some detailers would consider these pads a specialty pad, I do not. I use them each and every day. I have buffed with 6 inch pads exclusively for years. They are available from many buffing pad companies and come in the same type of foam grades as the larger 8 or 9 inch pads. They offer far greater control of the buffer and get into small areas where a larger pad cannot fit, or may be dangerous to use, such as around door handles, moldings and trim. I find it easier to keep even pressure on the buffer with a 6 inch pad. This allows me to keep the pad flat to the panel for optimum performance and maneuverability.

There are other “specialty” pads or “gimmick” pads out there that I feel do not enhance the buffing process. Some companies try to be different for competitive reasons, and they produce pads that are very different from the average pad. You will have to be the judge of the usefulness of these pads.

Regardless of the style of pad you choose to buff with, or its manufacturer, you need to know what the pads capabilities are. Get familiar with each and every pad you have, as well as the buffing products you use. With extensive knowledge of both buffing products and buffing pads, you will be well on the way to producing flawless looking vehicles.

 

What's the best way to treat (wash, dry, clay, wax, polish) the clear bra parts of a car?

Is it the same as the painted surfaces?

 

your going to have to take a bit more care with that.

I have clear film on my car as well. I do clay it from time to time but I would watch out as you can put light scratches on it, just make sure you use plenty of clay lube, and make sure you put light pressure on the clay bar enough to just glide it across the surface (this is true for all the surfaces) also remember to fold the clay bar as to make sure you are using a clean side.

You can also use a pre cleaner or a fine polish by hand or with an orbital.
Then hand wax it to protect the surface.

LMK if that helps.

 

perfect. that's what I was looking for. thank you.

 

just another note try a small section to make sure it works with the products you have.
if it works well go ahead it not stop and check back in.

There should be no problems.

 

Phil - Do you use the Cam Spray 1500A at its full rated pressure 1450PSI?

-Thanks!!

 

Well done Phil. I have asked this before in another thread...But, how about an in depth article on how to polish those tuff to reach areas. What to use...best methods. With pictures please. Thanks!

 

Maison,

Yes I do use it at full pressure.

 

Let me see what I can do.