Do you mean Zymol and Rejex?

 

Claying is an essential step before any waxing of polishing is done. You wouldn't paint a dirty house would you? Spending a short amount of time properly claying your vehicle will not only allow the wax of sealant to adhere properly, but also will make buffing the wax out easier. Also, if you're polishing the paintwork you don't ever want a nib of dirt or tar getting caught in your buffing pad which can cause some serious marring. Just like anything else in life PREPWORK is KEY. The short amount of time you'll spend claying your car is just more insurance that you didn't waste your time waxing or polishing.



John

 

I forgot to inquire within the original post but can I clay over the clearbra? I assume the answer is yes as long as I apply a sealanta/wax (I use Glanz Wax from Einszett) over it as a protective final layer.

Thanks,
Adam

 

It depends on the clay. If the clay is too aggressive or the lube is not proper, then you run the risk of scratching the film. What clay do you have?

 

I purchased the blue Gentle Fine Grade and White Ultra Fine Grade clay from Detailed Image. I was planning on using the ultra fine clay on the clearbra.

Adam

 

Quick update. I clayed my car this afternoon for the first time since ownership. I used the Gentle Fine Grade (blue) from Detailed Image. The entire process took about 75 minutes as I really took my time. Surprisingly my car did not have too much contamination for a 3 year old car. There was a little dirt here and there but it really wasn't bad. I do have to say it was kind of relaxing and very simple. Next step is to wash the car and break out the Menzerna polish. Hoping to start sometime this week so I can see how good it looks! Thanks again for everyone's input.

Adam

 

Glad it all worked out Adam. I have one concern though...Unless your car has been garaged and driven a few times a year, you should have picked up way more stuff in the clay than you mentioned. Part of using a clay that's TOO fine, is it doesn't pick up the larger and more bonded contaminants. Did you do a plastic wipe test? Put a ziplock on your hand and spray some detail spray, or clay lube, on the paint and feel. Best area is rear bumper and lower part of the doors.

Even on brand new cars we pick up things with our Medium clay. The main reason I mention this is that the whole point of a proper exterior detail is to remove the contaminants that are bonded to the paint surface that can damage the clear. If you only removed some, there's still potential for contamination being left behind.

 

By the way, where are pictures of your handy work??? Would love to see the final results

 

When you clay bar'd your Porsche, did you use a certain liquid with the Gentle Fine Grade (blue) from Detailed Image ? I suppose you first washed your car and then clay bar'd your Porsche indoors ?

Any advice for someone who has never used a clay bar ?

Thanks and also let me know about the Menzerna polish. Why Menzerna ?
Have you tried other waxes like Zymoil ?

Thanks - JIM in Texas

 

Moe:

Thanks. My car is driven about 2,500 miles per year and is parked indoors at home and work. It has only seen rain a few times. I had it professionally detailed 2 years ago and I'm sure it was clayed then. I did pickup more dirt/debris behind the wheels and lower parts of the car. Got a little bit off the windshield too. I was just expecting to see much more than I did. Don't get me wrong, I did pick up dirt, etc. I was thinking I was going to need to discard the claybar after use but I bet I have another 3-5 uses with it.

I polish the car using SIP about 2-3 times per year. The paint was in really good shape prior to the claying but I'm happy I tried the clay myself. It was pretty fun. The ziplock bag was a cool trick as well. It really helps find those last few pesky spots.

I spent the afternoon going over the car with a halogen light and polishing the scratches out using an orange pad and Meguire's Ultra Cut Compound followed by SIP. I need to go over the whole car with the Menzerna Final Polish II and then followup with Glanz wax. I know the results will be awesome. I can already tell the extra step will take it to the next step.

I will absolutely post pics when I am done. I still need another few nites to complete the job after the kids go to bed! Can't wait for spring!

Thanks again,
Adam

P.S. For any newbie considering claying, it is worth the efforts and very easy! Just use plenty of lube.

 

Thanks for the input on detailing your TT.

You mentioned Meguire's Ultra Cut Compound followed by SIP ? What is SIP ?

Also you mentioned Menzerna Final Polish II and then followup with Glanz wax,
where can I pick those up ? I take it by your complete description, that you REALLY like the finish you get from the Menzerna Final Polish II and the Glanz wax ?

Have you ever tried Zymoil ?

JIM in Texas

 

Jim:

SIP is a polish made by Menzerna. It is an acronym for Super Intensive Polish. I am not a Menzerna expert but my recollection is that it is a medium grade polish and generally pretty safe for most finishes. I really like it. I consider myself to be a detail junkie. I have tried tons and tons of products (3M professional, Meguires Pro line, Zymol, Zaino, Chemical Guys, Adams, etc.) I really like the Menzerna polishes the best. Most of the products do exactly as described. Granted you need the correct polishing pads and DA or rotarty.

I personally did not like Zymol. Too hard to apply and too much residue. I tried it 3 or 4 times on different cars of mine and I ended up giving it to a buddy.

Also, the Glanz wax is really nice. No residue, super easy to apply and remove and lasts pretty long. The shine might not be as wet or deep as some others I have seen but it is a great middle grade sealant.

Most of my buddies look at my car and they are amazed at the depth and clarity of my paint. I like to think part of it is due to the products and the other part is due to my skills!

BTW, I use a Porter Cable. Next on my wishlist is a Flex unit. Maybe father's day.

Adam

 

YES, I meant Zymol. You said it was too hard ? Too hard like it dried too quickly, so you had to deal wth swirl marks ?

I asked about Rejex, as I read it is not really a wax from what I have read it is a polymer sealant, so it is a great boat & airplane wax. I also read Rejex is great for the inside of your TT rims to fend of the brake dust, dirt, etc.

Have you tried either ? Any thoughts ?

Lastly, where do you buy your Menzerna and Glanz wax ?

Thanks and be in touch.

JIM in Texas

 

My experience with Zymol is that is was way too hard to apply and remove evenly. I felt like it was a lot of marketing and packaging hype. Also, it didn't last that long on a black BMW I had.

I tried Rejex years ago on a black Corvette I had (you know the whole fiberglass thing) and it just didn't have the depth I was looking for. I know it's a sealant but I really thought it was just average.

I have been using Meguires #6 cleaner/wax on my wheels followed by Armour All Wheel Protectant. This has proven to be a killer combo for me. My wheels stay clean for weeks if not months, granted my car is only driven 2,500 miles per year. The Armour All stuff is amazing. No brake dust. Apply 2 coats for it to work best and make sure to rotate the wheels about 90 degrees for best coverage (drive the car 3 feet forward, etc.). Also, I use #6 because I have a big bottle laying around. It's the only all in one I currently have, other than Zaino. Nothing special about it #6. When I run out later this spring I plan to try Klasse all in one on my wheels. I find the all in one's work well to remove minor surface defects on the wheels and still provide protection.

All of the above mentioned products can easily be purchased at 6speed sponsors. I have bought from all of them and they all rock!

Adam

 

Adam,

Thanks for the heads up on keeping your wheels clean.

Where do you order your Klasse wax from ?

Thanks - JIM in Texas
lasse