Whats the easiest way to wash , dry , and wax my silver turbo? And what&where to buy?
Whats the easiest way to wash , dry , and wax my silver turbo? And what&where to buy?
I dont want to have to spend countless hours doing this. I just want a nice quick wash and then a wax that works great but not difficult to use? Can someone tell me also what items I need to buy to make things quick , easy , and very effective? thanks!
Products needed: 2 buckets, 1 or 2 sheepskin wash mitts, 2 microfiber waffle weave drying towels, several 16x16 microfiber towels (for door jambs, wheels, windows, etc), fine grade detailing clay, car wash soap (meguiars, zaino, mothers, etc), wax and/or sealant
It may seem like a long list, but every product listed will prove to be beneficial. If you try and cheap out you will end up with a lesser finish and micromarring.
you can find a couple tutorials I have written on washing and claying here http://flawlessauto.com/DetailingTipsAndTricks.htm. I still need to add one for waxing, so I will explain it below.
After washing and claying your vehicle to remove any contaminants, you can begin waxing. For silver, I like p21s paste wax. It has great reflectivity and will really make the silver pop. This will last 1-2 months, so remember to reapply fairly often. Leaving your paint unprotected will leave it exposed to the elements and will likely result in harsh water spots leading to etching. For added protection, you could apply a sealant such as klasse, four star, poor boy's, or menzerna before waxing. Though, as long as you wax every 2 months this won't be necessary.
When waxing, use the supplied foam applicator and rub it in the paste wax. APply the wax to the paint in a very thin layer travelling in front to back motions. Never wax in circles as this is more likely to leave visible swirls should anything become imbedded in the pad. Do one panel at a time and then wipe off with a quality microfiber towel (once again in front to back motions). Move from panel to panel using this techinque until the car is completed. That is about it for waxing. It's pretty easy to do.
I just realized you wanted something quick and easy for waxing. If that is the case, nothing beats Optimum Car Wax. It is spray wax blend of carnauba wax and synthetics which provides up to 5 months of protection. you simply spray it on and wipe it off. To make things even quicker and easier you can spray it on before frying your car and it works just as well.
I know you didnt ask about claying, but it is an often overlooked step that can achieve even more drastic results than waxing alone. You may also want to pick up some tire shine for the tires, wheelwax for the wheels, and something like rain x for the glass. If you dont already have anything for the interior, I would highly recommend lexol leather cleaner and conditioner or leatherique for your leather, and 303 aerospace protectant for all your vinyl. APplying these products will extend the life of your interior greatly
BTW, I purchase most of my supplies through www.exceldetail.com www.ocdgarage.com and www.pakshak.com
It may seem like a long list, but every product listed will prove to be beneficial. If you try and cheap out you will end up with a lesser finish and micromarring.
you can find a couple tutorials I have written on washing and claying here http://flawlessauto.com/DetailingTipsAndTricks.htm. I still need to add one for waxing, so I will explain it below.
After washing and claying your vehicle to remove any contaminants, you can begin waxing. For silver, I like p21s paste wax. It has great reflectivity and will really make the silver pop. This will last 1-2 months, so remember to reapply fairly often. Leaving your paint unprotected will leave it exposed to the elements and will likely result in harsh water spots leading to etching. For added protection, you could apply a sealant such as klasse, four star, poor boy's, or menzerna before waxing. Though, as long as you wax every 2 months this won't be necessary.
When waxing, use the supplied foam applicator and rub it in the paste wax. APply the wax to the paint in a very thin layer travelling in front to back motions. Never wax in circles as this is more likely to leave visible swirls should anything become imbedded in the pad. Do one panel at a time and then wipe off with a quality microfiber towel (once again in front to back motions). Move from panel to panel using this techinque until the car is completed. That is about it for waxing. It's pretty easy to do.
I just realized you wanted something quick and easy for waxing. If that is the case, nothing beats Optimum Car Wax. It is spray wax blend of carnauba wax and synthetics which provides up to 5 months of protection. you simply spray it on and wipe it off. To make things even quicker and easier you can spray it on before frying your car and it works just as well.
I know you didnt ask about claying, but it is an often overlooked step that can achieve even more drastic results than waxing alone. You may also want to pick up some tire shine for the tires, wheelwax for the wheels, and something like rain x for the glass. If you dont already have anything for the interior, I would highly recommend lexol leather cleaner and conditioner or leatherique for your leather, and 303 aerospace protectant for all your vinyl. APplying these products will extend the life of your interior greatly

BTW, I purchase most of my supplies through www.exceldetail.com www.ocdgarage.com and www.pakshak.com
Originally Posted by girthboy
hmm thanks! So that spray on wax make the silver "pop" out as well as the other you mentioned?
Thank you!
Also, I use lexol for my leather and it seems that after a while , the leather seats have cracked even more as if it removed the moisture completely. Why is that? Should I try leatherique?
Also, I use lexol for my leather and it seems that after a while , the leather seats have cracked even more as if it removed the moisture completely. Why is that? Should I try leatherique?
Originally Posted by girthboy
Thank you!
Also, I use lexol for my leather and it seems that after a while , the leather seats have cracked even more as if it removed the moisture completely. Why is that? Should I try leatherique?
Also, I use lexol for my leather and it seems that after a while , the leather seats have cracked even more as if it removed the moisture completely. Why is that? Should I try leatherique?
From what I understand, leatherique is more of a cleaning system while lexol is a superior conditioner. You may want to try a product called surflex leather soffener. The company used to be a part of leatherique but broke off a number of years back. The soffener will help prevent cracking and will make your leather incredibly soft.
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In my experience, lexol did dry the leather and it also leaves a tacky film. We use Zymöl Treat. It's a natural conditioner containing beef tallow. It smells sweet, and leaves a satin finish. As for washing and waxing, eric is correct. You can wash the car, clay it, then put on any wax. The trick to keeping from waxing every week is to apply a carnauba, or liquid wax, spray on the subsequent weeks after washes. This way, you're feeding the paint and not having to wax it in the traditional sense. But be aware girthboy, all waxes aren't the same. Depending on the quality, they may last weeks or up to 8 months. The waxes we use/sell from Zymöl will last anywhere from 2 months to almost a year depending on your driving conditions and mother nature. They will range from $19 to $7000 per container.
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