Hello 6speeders,

I'm looking to possibly purchase a 2000 Ferrari 360 with about 40K+ miles. All maintenance has been completed per seller such as (ECU replacement, transmission mount, engine mount, new header, exhaust, catalytic converters). Carfax showed minor accident in which seller stated its a minor bump on a rear bumper). The asking price is low 70s. I will get a pre-purchased inspection from Newportbeach Ferrari. However, I wanted to hear from the members whether it would be a decent deal to consider. Thank you.

Mike

 

Generally, we really shouldn't shy away from higher-mileage cars. The American psyche, however, is that we only want the un-driven cars. I understand that, but these garage queens often are in need of a fair bit of deferred maintenance. So, finding a driver (as opposed to a show-er) isn't a bad idea. Especially if you intend to actually use it. Putting mileage on a car will depreciate it fast(er) in the American market. European, not as much, perhaps.

That said, Newport has a fairly good reputation. Many dealers are getting out of the PPI business due to legal liability if they miss something. And, honestly, they don't always catch everything. You might ask them if they'd put the car on their own used car inventory. Dealers have some limitations on what they can sell, based on rules established by FNA.

The 360 is a cam belt car, so that's a regular 5-year maintenance cycle. Make sure that's been done (and know when you'll need to have it done again). You don't want to lunch a top end based on a timed-out belt. Tires? When were they new? Again, much of this may be sorted out, because it's a driver. Just asking questions.

How many owners? Who's serviced it? Can you get the service records reviewed during the PPI? Can you get an extended warranty? I assume it's a US-market car, as opposed to Grey market. Does it have Classiche (or do you even want/care)? I wouldn't be worried about a cosmetic repair. The only real damage I'd be concerned about would be chassis tweaking. It's an aluminum frame with steel suspension bits, so they're designed to break-off and not damage the frame, but a hard enough hit can cause sub-frame or frame damage. It can ALL be repaired, if it has, but it's not cheap, and NOS parts like that aren't really in large supply.

I'm no longer an expert on price, but it seems as reasonable asking.

CW

 

I used to take care of a 360 Spider, and it and the 430 are the sweet spot for mid-engine V8 F cars especially if a 6-speed gated manual resides between the seats!

The other issues besides what was already stated are the keys/immobilizer, window drop switches when opening the doors, control switches, and the water pump. First the siren for the immobilizer has a sealed battery and it is mounted just aft of the front trunk near the steering shaft. Once the battery dies, the immobilizer will not Chirp to indicate if the alarm is armed. I believe this sealed battery unit is the back up for when the car's battery dies as well. Check to see if your car chirps when you lock it, and make sure it works for each key that is conveyed with your car.

Second, the proximity switches for the side windows are fickle and will not always work when you open or close the door. This may allow the side windows to contact the weatherstripping in an awkward position or even touch the paint.

Third, the water/coolant pump is located in the engine bay just behiind the passenger seat. Check this area to see if any leaks have occurred a bad leak will dampen the carpeting behind the seat and may discolor it as well. The dealer recommended checking the condition of the pump and also checking/replacing the timing belt tensioners whenever the timing belt was replaced which is every 12,000 miles.

The rubberized control switches for the AC and other functions are notorious for getting sticky/gooey feeling.

Finally, the car battery is located in the passenger footwell. behind the aluminum plate that acts as a foot stop. I certainly would have a battery maintainer connected either there or at the lighter. The rotary kill switch in the trunk is a good for isolating only necessary circuits, but it is no substitute for maintaining the battery.

If the car has the original radio, make sure you have the radio code for it. It is printed on what looks like a credit card.

Good luck and have fun, because the maintenance will not be cheap so make it worth your while and put another 40k miles on it!

 

BTW, there is now a solution to fix this problem. You have to de-install the parts and ship them, but the repairs look perfect.

CW

 

That seems like a reasonable price if the car is in good condition and has been well maintained. I looked around for 360s and 430s for about a year and finally pounced on a 430 spider a couple of months ago.
Best of luck man!

 

BTW, the gold standard for determining correct private-party Ferrari asking prices, IMO, is the Ferrari market letter. It's not free, however...

http://www.ferrarimarketletter.com

CW

 

Thank you much. I Will look into the market letter.