Lift installed
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 89
From: Chicago, IL
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It's a rolling bridge jack.
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/4-p...cks/RJ-45.aspx
It can roll into any position and be used to raise either the front or back. Mine uses compressed air.
Gives a 4-post lift some of the functionality of a 2post.
2 of them would be great, but expensive.
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/4-p...cks/RJ-45.aspx
It can roll into any position and be used to raise either the front or back. Mine uses compressed air.
Gives a 4-post lift some of the functionality of a 2post.
2 of them would be great, but expensive.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Northern, NJ
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@alcav - thanks. I paid someone to do it. Having watched two guys put it up - I think it's doable as a DIY with a helper. Biggest issue is loading it at the freight terminal onto a trailer. Spacers are steel washers - left side needed almost 3" worth, right side 2.5" worth. Garage slopes down towards the door for drainage.
I just have garage door track raised & installed liftmaster 3800 opener. And now I'm ready to put up a lift.
I have same situation on my floor. You said you put steel washers but did you put something under the base plate? Like some plywood or a block of wood?
Looks like there is something under the base plate.....Or close up picture would be great.
Also, anchor is must or an option?
Last edited by locus; Jul 13, 2012 at 11:46 AM.
Thread Starter
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 89
From: Chicago, IL
Rep Power: 18
I just have garage door track raised & installed liftmaster 3800 opener. And now I'm ready to put up a lift.
I have same situation on my floor. You said you put steel washers but did you put something under the base plate? Like some plywood or a block of wood?
Looks like there is something under the base plate.....Or close up picture would be great.
Also, anchor is must or an option?
I have same situation on my floor. You said you put steel washers but did you put something under the base plate? Like some plywood or a block of wood?
Looks like there is something under the base plate.....Or close up picture would be great.
Also, anchor is must or an option?
Anchoring is not a must, in fact I'm told most people put the optional caster wheels on the lift to allow it to be moved about, and in that case I'm told an uneven floor is not the end of the world.
I didn't need to move the lift, and wanted the security of knowing it wouldn't develop a rocking motion when I was working under the car/lift (plus it saved a bit - caster kit was $262) http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/acc...aster-kit.aspx
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 605
From: Northern, NJ
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locus - here are close ups of the two legs that needed washers. THere is no plywood or wood under the baseplate. Just measure the amount you need to build up (laser level helpful for that), create a stack of washers, use a floor jack to lift up that side of the lift, slide washers under. Use traditional level to check for evenness, and shim with rubber washers if needed, pass bolt through, hammer in and then tighten. The installers packed some ready-mix concrete around the gap, between the washers - which I need to paint to match my floor.
Anchoring is not a must, in fact I'm told most people put the optional caster wheels on the lift to allow it to be moved about, and in that case I'm told an uneven floor is not the end of the world.
I didn't need to move the lift, and wanted the security of knowing it wouldn't develop a rocking motion when I was working under the car/lift (plus it saved a bit - caster kit was $262) http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/acc...aster-kit.aspx
Anchoring is not a must, in fact I'm told most people put the optional caster wheels on the lift to allow it to be moved about, and in that case I'm told an uneven floor is not the end of the world.
I didn't need to move the lift, and wanted the security of knowing it wouldn't develop a rocking motion when I was working under the car/lift (plus it saved a bit - caster kit was $262) http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/acc...aster-kit.aspx
Now I know what to do next
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From: Chicago, IL
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I'd like to revise my recommendation of the BendPak HD-9. After only a year of very infrequent use (used mostly for storage, not constant up and down), my hydraulic piston has developed a leak.
Bendpak have been very unhelpful in dealing with it, and I have to wrap a plastic shopping bag around the end of the piston to stop it dripping on the car stored at the bottom of the lift.
I'd consider other brands.
Bendpak have been very unhelpful in dealing with it, and I have to wrap a plastic shopping bag around the end of the piston to stop it dripping on the car stored at the bottom of the lift.
I'd consider other brands.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 383
From: Where I sleep
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I'd like to revise my recommendation of the BendPak HD-9. After only a year of very infrequent use (used mostly for storage, not constant up and down), my hydraulic piston has developed a leak.
Bendpak have been very unhelpful in dealing with it, and I have to wrap a plastic shopping bag around the end of the piston to stop it dripping on the car stored at the bottom of the lift.
I'd consider other brands.
Bendpak have been very unhelpful in dealing with it, and I have to wrap a plastic shopping bag around the end of the piston to stop it dripping on the car stored at the bottom of the lift.
I'd consider other brands.
Thanks for the heads up. I am looking to add another lift. Will need to make a decision in the next week or so. Was going to just buy another of what I have (bendpak hd9st). Mine current one is about a year old too and fortunately for me it's not leaking. You mind sharing exactly where this leak is? Maybe a pic?
Thanks!
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From: Blaine, Wa (not in Irvine anymore)
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A cousin of mine has 2 of these DirectLifts and seems pretty happy with them.
http://www.directlift.com/Pro-Park-8...ift-P44C9.aspx
http://www.directlift.com/Pro-Park-8...ift-P44C9.aspx
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,193
From: Minneapolis
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I'd like to revise my recommendation of the BendPak HD-9. After only a year of very infrequent use (used mostly for storage, not constant up and down), my hydraulic piston has developed a leak.
Bendpak have been very unhelpful in dealing with it, and I have to wrap a plastic shopping bag around the end of the piston to stop it dripping on the car stored at the bottom of the lift.
I'd consider other brands.
Bendpak have been very unhelpful in dealing with it, and I have to wrap a plastic shopping bag around the end of the piston to stop it dripping on the car stored at the bottom of the lift.
I'd consider other brands.
Call Jeff - He understands the value of keeping 'forum' members happy.
Jeff Kritzer
jkritzer@bendpak.com
SR. VP. / Sales & Marketing
BendPak / Ranger
Tel: 1-805-933-9970
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The typical solution for installing column base plates is to use a high strength non shrink gout under the base plates.
After the base plate is leveled a mix is prepared and either poured in (retained by a damn around the BP) or a stiffer mix is troweled in place. With the trowel method you must make certain that there are no grout voids.
The grout base ensures uniform bearing over an uneven concrete footing. The non shrink part keeps the cementitious grout from shrinking after installation, and the high strength part is obvious.
SIKA products are generally used for this application and you can research for the correct SIKA product on their web site. There are many other HSNS grout mfgs, Burke is another that comes to mind. Read the directions carefully.
Personally I am not too sanguine about installing loaded columns, subject to lateral forces, on a slab without a footing below. I know that the lift mfg's approve of this but it isn't good practice. And for those who live in earthquake country a medium shake is going to result in either the anchor bolts pulling out or the thin slab or the slab breaking under the bending stresses. If this were to happen the columns would fall to the floor.
After the base plate is leveled a mix is prepared and either poured in (retained by a damn around the BP) or a stiffer mix is troweled in place. With the trowel method you must make certain that there are no grout voids.
The grout base ensures uniform bearing over an uneven concrete footing. The non shrink part keeps the cementitious grout from shrinking after installation, and the high strength part is obvious.
SIKA products are generally used for this application and you can research for the correct SIKA product on their web site. There are many other HSNS grout mfgs, Burke is another that comes to mind. Read the directions carefully.
Personally I am not too sanguine about installing loaded columns, subject to lateral forces, on a slab without a footing below. I know that the lift mfg's approve of this but it isn't good practice. And for those who live in earthquake country a medium shake is going to result in either the anchor bolts pulling out or the thin slab or the slab breaking under the bending stresses. If this were to happen the columns would fall to the floor.
Looks good / Did you install yourself or have the supplier do it?
Curious to know what kind of spacer(s) you put under the column plate. In other words did you get steel flat plates and build up to the correct height or something else. I have same situation & right now I have nothing under the column plate(s) they are just sitting on leveling nuts.
Curious to know what kind of spacer(s) you put under the column plate. In other words did you get steel flat plates and build up to the correct height or something else. I have same situation & right now I have nothing under the column plate(s) they are just sitting on leveling nuts.
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,241
From: Truckee
Rep Power: 82
The typical solution for installing column base plates is to use a high strength non shrink gout under the base plates.
After the base plate is leveled a mix is prepared and either poured in (retained by a damn around the BP) or a stiffer mix is troweled in place. With the trowel method you must make certain that there are no grout voids.
The grout base ensures uniform bearing over an uneven concrete footing. The non shrink part keeps the cementitious grout from shrinking after installation, and the high strength part is obvious.
SIKA products are generally used for this application and you can research for the correct SIKA product on their web site. There are many other HSNS grout mfgs, Burke is another that comes to mind. Read the directions carefully.
Personally I am not too sanguine about installing loaded columns, subject to lateral forces, on a slab without a footing below. I know that the lift mfg's approve of this but it isn't good practice. And for those who live in earthquake country a medium shake is going to result in either the anchor bolts pulling out or the thin slab or the slab breaking under the bending stresses. If this were to happen the columns would fall to the floor.
After the base plate is leveled a mix is prepared and either poured in (retained by a damn around the BP) or a stiffer mix is troweled in place. With the trowel method you must make certain that there are no grout voids.
The grout base ensures uniform bearing over an uneven concrete footing. The non shrink part keeps the cementitious grout from shrinking after installation, and the high strength part is obvious.
SIKA products are generally used for this application and you can research for the correct SIKA product on their web site. There are many other HSNS grout mfgs, Burke is another that comes to mind. Read the directions carefully.
Personally I am not too sanguine about installing loaded columns, subject to lateral forces, on a slab without a footing below. I know that the lift mfg's approve of this but it isn't good practice. And for those who live in earthquake country a medium shake is going to result in either the anchor bolts pulling out or the thin slab or the slab breaking under the bending stresses. If this were to happen the columns would fall to the floor.