Ok, really in the market for a GT3 for track time and just more all around back roads driving. Looking to put less money into the car given the above purpose.

However, before I go down and buy a 2007 or 2007 GT3, can someone who has driven both really give me the most significant differences from a handling, ride and other perspectives? Assuming I am not trying to win races, is it really worth the extra cash and subsequent loss of depreciation dollars?

Wanting to spend some cash with Sharky on an older model to catch up the small performance difference, seems more economical to me.

Any issues to look for with the older model from a service perspective? Have heard the motors are pretty bullet proof.

Lastly, what would be a fair price for a modestly used 2007 GT3?

THanks guys!

Ok meant to say 2007/08 vs 2010 model...sorry

You can go either way, most would say get the latest and greatest and never look back.

New models are going for around 100k
07 models are going b/w 70-80k
Or you can get an 04-05 for under 65k and really upgrade the 996

It's up to you how much you wanna spend

sharky is definitely not making up the power difference.

not true....
Buy a 07/08 for 70k and have Sharky drop a 3.9 in it and tweek it for track approx 30k ....then you will have a GT3 that will be 500hp and blow a 2010 away

In light of his suggestion of buying a 07 because he doesn't need the extra performance and to save money, I don't think he was referring to a sharkwerks bored out engine when he meant sharky. I think he was referring to the bypass.

Also, you'd be hard pressed to find a GT3 for 70k without over 30k miles on it. But if you do find any, please send them my way! A GT3 may be in my future.

Sometimes what we don't know..makes the buying decision that much easier.
I personally would rather have a non CPO'd 07 with +15k miles with a 3.9 than a stock 10 all day long......and the price difference would be minimal.
(no offense to 10 owners)
Shop around there are deals on 07s from distressed owners....you may be quite surprised Maroli.

If you have to have the newest then a 10 is the way to go....and get a CPO'd car.

hey, I'm with you there. I read the excellence article and it says the SW engine is a peach. I wonder what the resale would be comparative to a 997.2 though. I mean obviously you're going to lose a lot more in the short run with a .2.....but would a 3.9 .1 sell for any more than a stock .1? I wonder if anyone has actually resold their SW .1 that can answer this....

I think Snowboarder was trying to sell his at one time but gave up on it or was having too much fun with the car to do it.
I would guess the 3.9 is going to add a little more value but in this economy none of it is relevant. Depreciation is taking a huge toll on Pcar values..
I am pretty sure I will drop the coin for a 3.9 after my CPO is up....I tend to keep cars lower mileage and for a while.

PM'd

Thanks for the feedback, just found a bone stock 2007 with low miles, actually two, and picking one up. As for Sharky, I meant a tune and bypass, which WILL make up for the 15 (450-435 HP) diff. Believe my math is correct. Eventually may go Kermit on the car....decisions decisions....

Having driven 997.1GT3s and owning both a 997.2GT3 and 996.2GT3, I will say the obvious: the biggest leap is between the 6 and 7 rather than 7.1 and 7.2. The 7.1 has TC/SC - nice for the newbie on the street who hasn't refreshed his rear tires in the last 3,000 miles. The 6 does not. The 7.1s usually have sunroofs (yuck), the 6s and 7.2s do not. The 7s are much better looking cars, though the wing is funky on the 7.1. It is wicked on the 7.2.

But, I digress. The real issues that will affect you are:

Do you really want to get a car off warranty that is going to cost you a bunch of time and effort to get it to 85% the performance and sound of a new (or lightly used) car that is under warranty?

If you go BTTW (***** to the wall) and buy a nice 6 and 3.9L Sharkify it, you could have bought a newer car and put some Motons and other goodies on it, paid for a racing coach and learned to drive it over time. Then, if you still think that extra umph is so important, Sharkify the newer car or sell it. I doubt you'll get any money back that you've put into an engine upgrade. But, I could be wrong.

If you get a 7.2 and you love it, think of the options down the road! Your warranty has expired and you are being lapped by those pesky 650 bhp Vipers 'n' Vettes once they learn to drive. Sharky will likely be able to send the 3.8 out for a 4.0L rebuild when the time comes.

Until then you have a fantastic, unmolested beast that is very comfortable on the street. I actually don't mind the 6.2 on the street, but many people seem to whine about their sensitive butts or livers or some such.

Just decide on a real price point, do the numbers, and fire away. In the end, you will have a lot of fun with the car, if you are realistic about your performance and expense expectations up front.

Any seats, harnesses, roll bar that you get for the 6 generally will fit in the 7.1 and 7.2. So if you get buyers remorse, you can sell your 6 and move up.

The least hit from depreciation will be the 6, followed by 7.1, and the worst will be the 7.2. I bet if you keep a 6 in good shape, properly maintained you'll be able to sell her for $45-65k in a few years depending on what you do to it. They are rare.

Furthermore, you may get the bug to step up to another level entirely, and get a Radical for less than you are about to plop down for a used car.

Anyway, your choice of an '07 is good. Try to get a decent one for low 70s. You can get a very good 6.2 for 50-55k untracked. You can get a very nice untracked 7.1 for 75-85k. Look around a bit. People love these and get clingy, but finally realize they have a reason they are selling the car and let it go for market price. I know of a beautiful 7.2 that you should look at if you end up considering swinging upwards of 100k.

Just a quick note. The 7.1 gt3's have Traction Control (TC) but NOT Stability Control (SC). The 7.2 gt3's are the only ones with TC and SC. Regards, z356 (Carmel)

I'd be interested to see if you do make up the difference in power with a bypass and a tune. From what I understand, the bypass on its own doesn't really make that much power, and the tune on its own doesn't make 20 hp. I think even with the bypass and tune, the power curve for the .2 will be different...the gain for the modded .1 will probably be all in the top end, but the .2 apparently has quite a bit more torque. Anyway, you can't go wrong with either car and I'm sure your ownership experience will be great!

I have serious doubt that a bypass and tune will make up for the 20 hp differences and certainly not the higher torque numbers achieved by the .2 over the .1; nor will it match the wider torque band of the .2.

Sharkwerks states that there are no gains as a result of the bypass. The 16 lb weight reduction doesn't hurt but won't make the car any faster nor handle (measurably) any better. It will sound far better which is worth it. I plan to get one myself. No tune for me as I am not necessarily a believer and don't want the ECU modded due to potential warranty and residual issues.

I would assume that a bypass/tune would cost about $5-$6k with labor. I also believe that the .2 is so much better than the .1. When you consider the all of the improvements (both visual and mechanical) which are abundant, the 3 years newer model (at about $5-7k per year), the warranty or lack thereof and then add the aforementioned cost of the mods you plan and a .2 becomes even more appealing. Personally I'd pick the .2, all things relatively equal, even without adding the cost of mods unless the delta was over $35k. Anyway, I took my own advice and bought as .2 last year. I extensively test drove a .1 and am very, very happy with my choice.

No disrespect to Sharky at all as their products and service are as good as it gets.

A 3.9, now you're talking; one bad azz **** there!

BTW, which delta are you referring to? The .2 RS makes 450, the .2 (3) 435 and the .1 (3) 415. You mention a 2007 GT3 then posted numbers for a .2 RS. Either way the tune/bypass won't bridge the gap.