The autometrics will work in the rear, but not the front - too low to the ground in the front. Best to use through the spoke tie downs in the front. I will post photos as soon as time permits.

 

Try these straps very high quality and won't scratch you rims
http://www.truckntow.com/pc-18974-14...-set-of-4.aspx

 

Why not leave it in gear or e-brake?

 

In gear can ruin the transmission. E brake some don't care about but it's not needed and if you put your car away Hot. High chance it will freeze there. The tie downs work and the car will be fine.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Use the hooks. I been towing my GT3 for 1 year and I had not a single problem. Several race teams I know used them as well and no need for Tie downs on the tires.
One thinkg if you get the the right rear hook gets very close to the dry sump tank so instead of hooking from the top hook from bottom to top.( Onece you put them you will see what I am saying.

Good luck

 

Do you have any pics?

 

Not so. They have worked well for me for a couple of years now. But I may not be diving the front end as deep as you, that is, not standing on the brakes as hard as you do, or climbing over the curbing. A friend of mine just got a set, and I see on their instructions where they suggest bending the fronts a tad. I do have some scrapes on the bottom end of one hook, but not severe enough for me to be concerned.

 

http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm

Filter thru the contents.. there is a bunch of good info.

Cheers

R

P.S.

Jack,

Tie down with car out of gear may relieve stress on tranny/drivetrain by avoiding "rocking" the gears as load shifts with suspension?

 

Thanks, those look great and I just ordered 2 sets and ratchets.

 

I use the Autometric tie down rings front and back. If you tie through the front wheels, you will pull the toe setting off. The front Autometric ties were scraping the pavement on my lowered 996 GT3 during heavy braking, so I took them off and bent them to an "S" shape or "Z" shape and re-installed. Then, have some fixed length straps made to fit the front and hold your car just where you want it in the trailer. You only have to cinch the back that way. Don't criss-cross; it gives more strap area to stretch. Be sure to put your strap hooks up through the inside of the hook eye. When you hit bumps, the car suspension will compress and the tie-down strap hooks can jump out if you just hook them over the ring from outside. Better, get hooks with safety locks.

 

 

Do not strap it through the spokes of the wheels, and I would NOT recommend these hooks either. Always sling the straps around the wheels...

 

I think those are a great suggestion. I use those guys for a lot of things, since they provide nearly everything that you could want for moving a vehicle lol.

 

I have a Ford GT and whenever it's trailered it is tied down by a set of (4) covers that go over each of the four tires. It's like a heavy nylon 'sock' that covers the upper half of each tire down just under the axle line of the wheel. From each of the sides of the cover (forward and trailing) is a tie-down strap that hooks to the trailer.
This prevents any damage to the wheel, and any unusual stress on bearings, and spreads the load of the tie-down and trailer movement across 1/2 the tire.
It's the only way I would tie down any car since it places load on the car in the place(s) the car was designed for it.
V.
P.S. The picture attached captures the idea but is a set of straps rather than a full nylon cover. Either will do.