Here is something I am working on for no purpose really. But fun to show - http://www.vividracing.com/blog/proj...-my-510-story/

 

saw that on SF. Looks like fun.

 

All the front end plumbing is done. This thing has more AN fittings and braided line then Earls does in its warehouse! And for kicks as we waited for fittings, we threw on the Rotora GIAGANTOR brakes. Better photos coming soon.

 

Here is a shot of the custom ignition setup and wires we had to have made...

 

I do know Gorilla RE and I do consider him to be an expert. He does have vast knowledge in rotary engines and years of experience in these cars.

Question, what is the reason for using Cosmo front cover and water pump assembly? I would figure if you got this engine built, most would move to 13B-REW front cover and go with stock 3rd gen CAS... or other aftermarket trigger will be easier for 3rd gen.

I also wonder why not relocated the alternator by the AC?? Especially since 8s have such a low center of gravity via lowered engine, I would use the 3rd gen PS/AC mount and mount the AC in place of the PS.

Also, I noticed subframe was built, are you expecting bump steer and did you guys correct this? If corrected can you be more elaborate about how you corrected the issue?

Since Rotary Rocket built this engine, are you guys using ID injectors?? If so, please share what size and what coils are being used.

Thanks and good luck with the build.

 

Please share your pictures of your 20B build in a RX8.

 

Please share your reasons for doing what you are doing for your customer and answer some of the questions I had.

 

Since there is no documentation found online, or other projects similar, we did what we had to, to make things fit and work. Though I appreciate your questions, I am not looking to justify them to you specifically. We are here to share pictures of this.

 

Understood.. Just thought you were posting about the project, I figure I ask some questions and get your opinions as to why certain method... to see if my logic is different and maybe I'll learn something new.

Regarding other 8, 3 rotor builds.. One of the better RX8 20B built I've seen is from a company called Acosta Racing (no longer in business). I believe they first did an 8 built back in 2005-2006. They use the similar technique as their 20B FD conversion. I know they were the first to figure out how to build a 3 rotor FD without modified subframe which causes bump steers. I also worked with local company who specialize in LS conversion who built sub frames to correct bump steer issues for FD3S 20bs. But even those, you could still tell there is some issues.

I'm not knowledgeable enough about Acosta's 20B RX8s but kind of stuff they did, I think I read that they did not touch the sub frame. If you do a search for Acosta 3 Rotor, I'm sure you will find some pics and such. I know they were very secretive about how they mounted the 20B on FDs, until I realized what they did.. which was to use 13B REW rear irons and modified the UIM and oil pan.

 

The guy in Puerto Rico? Contacted him several times, useless. He was running an auto tranny I believe. He blew like 5 of them. There is no comparison of a FD to the SE3P. Believe me, everything has been custom made here, there is no way around it. That is why I have documented the entire process with pictures to show what a PITA this is. As far as bump steer, there is not enough travel to matter. This is not a GrandAm car, its purely was wanted for fun.

 

No, They used to be in NJ.

So, what makes it so different from FD and SE3P? If you are talking about the exhaust manifold, piping, and such, every 20B conversions I've seen have different set ups. Any 20B swap will require custom parts of something.. thinking SE3P is that much more custom seems not quite true. Just so you know, in someway FD requires more as most trying to avoid bump steering issues require cutting the LIM.. Which you don't with RX8s.

And regarding bump steer... and I state this to some of the people I converse with.... 7 and 8s are great because of their handling capabilities. I had an 8 for couple of years and tracked it. It was a fantastic car that drove easily to its limit. Changing geometry of the car will affect the drive ability of the car. That being said, thinking and trying to plan to minimize that issue is what I consider better build.

 

Here are some more pics of some of the recent work completed...

 

Correct. They did not touch the sub frame. Their setup also had incredible driveability, I got an opportunity to drive it before their sold it.

The gentleman in Puerto Rico that did the 3-rotor setup, did actually use manual transmissions.

 

Great to hear that you actually drove that car. I wished I had a chance to drive it. I know it sold for 50-60K back when it was sold.

 

It actually sold for $30k + an FD3S RX7 they built earlier.